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Latest posts by Fairygirl

Surface Water

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 13:34

Oooh that would be lovely 

Have always liked them but not sure they'd survive up here. At my last house we had a spring-fed pond with a rill feeding into a smaller one so it would have been perfect, but the bunnies would no doubt have eaten them anyway! 

Surface Water

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 13:10

The rills are a lovely suggestion by Marinelilium, and may be the best solution. If the house on the left has raised their garden, you might be getting a lot of water pushed in your direction because of that too. Certainly creating better drainage by channeling the water away would be the best solution.

If it was a weeping willow that the GC mentioned - I'd be a bit wary! 

The first one I've seen this year - 2014

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 12:55

Lovely newts nut 

Some of the early cherries round here have got blossom opening. Really makes it seem like spring is here, despite the cold and rain!

Not seen any sign of hawthorn yet though.

Wollerton Old Hall climbing roses

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 12:39

bumping this up for you happyct. 

Manchester, NE-facing balcony garden

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 12:35

Bsy Lizzies (Impatiens) are ideal for shade and you can pick them up quite cheaply at GCs, nurseries and DIY stores for a summer display to go with the Sarcococca Ceres mentioned. Lots of colours. Osteospermums (Cape daisies) will grow in the window boxes - they're easy to get too like the Busy Lizzies and plenty of colours available. They're both annuals so will only last through the summer/early autumn. Primulas and Polyanthus will grow in shade and you can pick them up now. Some of mine flowered on and off all summer and winter. You can get small ivies to trail from the window boxes as well. I got some for a £1 in Morrisons recently. In autumn you could put some early bulbs - daffs and crocus - in pots or the window boxes once any annuals are finished. They'll give you some nice colour at this time of year and are inexpensive. In fact, you'll get little pots of daffs cheaply just now in Garden Centres.

Did you want a few more evergreens to give structure? You could get some box balls or cones which you could take with you if you move and they will give you something to look at in winter along with the Sarcococca (Christmas box) 

North facing wall.

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 12:20

They're good on here aren't they Balvinder! I knew someone would know which roses would suit you. I'd agree with obelixx about the concrete. If you want a good display, it pays to get the preparation right. It would be a shame to spend your money and then always be struggling to get the plants to perform. I had a  similar problem last year when creating  a raised bed in front of a fence. There were 2 large concrete blocks underneath part of it and, although I could have left one of them as it was on it's end, I dug it out to give my plants the best chance of success. The soil would have been shallow and it could also have affected the drainage.

Awkward Soil Patch

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 11:39

Good suggestions there. I have a similar strip on the outside of my fence and I'm just going to stick a line of heathers along it. I don't really like them, but it will provide easily maintained cover and is also good for wildlife especially at this time of year.

Can any one identify this plant and give basic care info

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 11:36

Red Edge I'd say. Dave's advice is sound - replace a bit of the compost layer as well before the mulch 


Posted: 09/03/2014 at 11:34

That's good Dove. At least we won't have to shout now for you to hear us.


Dead lawn

Posted: 09/03/2014 at 11:31

I'd agree with Dave, Raymond. It's a common problem with builders and new houses. It's what's underneath the grass that determines  how it will perform and if that's not brilliant it's always going to be difficult to keep it looking right. The fact that they added fertiliser to the ground before laying the turf tells the story. There should have been a good layer of soil instead. Adding fertiliser at that point has just given you a false, temporary result and the yellow patches indicate the poor root growth Dave mentions.  Give it a chance to dry out and then take it from there. If it's only compacted rather than the soil base being inadequate, you can spike it to give drainage holes, which you then fill with grit or coarse sand and that may be enough to improve it. Then you need to be a little bit meaner with the food! 

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