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Flowerchild


Latest posts by Flowerchild

Witch Hazel

Posted: 31/01/2014 at 13:24

Shrubs and trees planted in one year use the following growing season for establishing and expanding their rootsystem. So, it seems perfectly normal to me that your Witch Hazel produces less or no flowers this year. Another thing to bear in mind is that Hamamelis is a bit of a slow starter. It can take a year or two before it will be flowering in abundance.

If you planted it in a multi-purpose compost that will be fine for now, and you can always put a layer of ericacious compost on top the soil as a mulch. It needs an acid to neutral, well-drained soil.  

If you can, plant it out in your garden. It will perform so much better then. When planted in full sun the soil needs to be moist (not wet!)

Tree Advice

Posted: 23/01/2014 at 16:49

May I suggest Garrya elliptica? I once saw one, somewhere in Wiltshire and fell in love with it immediately! Had to have it, even if I live in the east of the Netherlands and the climate isn't perfect. But hey, it survived -15, and , it can grow into a nice little tree. Lovely lush, green foliage all year round and greyish/purple catkins during winter.

azalea wind damage

Posted: 18/01/2014 at 11:20

Can anyone identify these worms?

Posted: 15/01/2014 at 16:18

Might be potworms, daydaisy. Just a thought.

Red Robin problem

Posted: 09/01/2014 at 16:00

The black patches in Photinia leaves are caused by Entomosporium maculatum, a fungal leaf spot disease. It's is very common and is not harmful to the shrub. The main reason of these spots occurring, is the leaves remaining wet over a long period. It doesnt look very nice though.

Plants in a sheltered spot are more prone to leaf spots, as well as new foliage. Pruning during the growing season will encourage new growth. Mature leaves are more resistant to leaf spot.

  • Rake up and discard fallen leaves, and remove infected plant material. Apply fresh mulch around plants to cover any leaves that were missed. You could also try underplanting with low growing perennials, such as catmint. 
  • Provide sufficient air circulation. This often means thinning out a few plants in a hedge.
  • Avoid wetting the leaves when watering. Splashing water spreads the fungus.
  • Avoid summer fertilization that will promote new growth late in the season.

 If nothing seems to work, you can try spraying with a fungicide just before and during new foliage is emerging. If that doesn't make any difference, I would be inclined to remove Red Robin althogether.

I hope this will help.  

 

 

Can't get no inspiration!

Posted: 07/01/2014 at 15:51

How about a Hamamelis, underplanted with Cyclamen coum; or maybe a Garrya elliptica and some  ornamental grasses? Bulbs for Spring colour. Would look very nice with the Choisya.

What is this ornamental tree please?

Posted: 01/01/2014 at 10:33

Any thorns on the branches, Dovefromabove? In that case my vote is for Crataegus mollis, Downy hawthorn. Crataegus pinnatifida is another possibility. Their fruit is almost as big as a crab apple's.

What is this ornamental tree please?

Posted: 31/12/2013 at 15:51

Might also be a Sorbus intermedia, Swedish Whitebeam?

Name this vine

Posted: 23/12/2013 at 12:15

Abutilon megapotamicum. It's from Brazil and I wouldn't prune it now as it's frost tender. If your plant is in a container it would be wise to bring it indoors. 

http://www.larkspur-nursery.co.uk/Abutilon_Care.htm

Help Indetifying a plant...

Posted: 17/12/2013 at 16:27

Photo 1 + 2 look like runners from Syringa vulgaris, Lilac. 

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