gardenning granny

Latest posts by gardenning granny

Leaf mould

Posted: 31/10/2015 at 11:52

also, if you don't let them rot down first you may be introducing all sorts of pests and diseases into the soil, especially as these are collected from the wild.

Passiflora caerulea

Posted: 31/10/2015 at 11:49

Like Hostafan I dug mine out.  It grew too quickly - covered the house wall - very beautiful - produced lovely apricot like fruits - flowered profusely and was much admired for 3 or 4 years.  It had to be removed ten years ago, after finding shoots coming up behiind the skirting boards of an iinternal wall in the house.  I am still pulling out seedlings as soon as I spot them from around where it was originally planted - long roots - and vast quantities, as they get going really rapidly once they see daylight.

This is my ultimate no no plant - as bad if not worse than russian vine.

cutting back

Posted: 31/10/2015 at 11:39

If they're in the flower bed, and you're like me and forget where things are once they are out of sight, put in a marker stick to remind you, then heap some leaf mould over the crown once the leaves have died down and been removed.

The one I have in a large pot is looking rather elegant right now, sporting its seed heads on long stems.

Leaf mould

Posted: 31/10/2015 at 11:32

I'don't think that's quite how it works B-M.

Leaves need a long time to break down - at least one year, and better still, two.

I keep a pair of leaf mould areas, one vbuilding this years heap, and one containing last years. As it becomes ready I either spread it around, or bag it up for future use.  It rots down to about an eigth of the original (compressed) pile.  That way you have cleared the area ready for next autumn.

It's well worth dong, if you have the space.  Good Luck.





jasmine polyanthum

Posted: 29/10/2015 at 19:11

that's a timely reminder, Dove.  I have a couple of tiny campsis plants grown from seed - they're sitting outside at the moment but perhaps I ought to bring them in for the winter.  In France I have a similar plant - Tecmaria - which is far more tender than Campsis.  The cold winds down from the mountains cut it down to the ground sometimes, but it springs back into action , making a couple of metres of growth, as soon as the weather warms up a bit in March. That one's only problem seems to be that it doesn't seem to get round to flowering until October, by which time the winter weather is advancing rapidly.  That's the challenge of gardening, I suppose.

Overwintering Tibouchina

Posted: 29/10/2015 at 17:35

thanks Lydiaann - didn't  know about the ericaceous compost, but I think I used multi-purpose when I re-potted it.  I think it's going to be a case of crossed fingers and hope.

Strange Looking Fruit

Posted: 29/10/2015 at 15:30

 this is magnolia soulageana - like an exotic bird and you can see the seeds birsting forth

Kiwi Fruits

Posted: 29/10/2015 at 15:23

Mine grew in a largepot, climbing over a pergola for years.  It seemed to be pretty hardy and had wonderful scented creamy flowers much loved by the bees every year.

Overwintering begonia tubers

Posted: 29/10/2015 at 15:20

also take care next year - I overwintered mine last year, planted up again when new growth appeared on the top, and put the pots out in the garden.  Unfortunately I watered them well and stood the pots on plastic trays as I was going to be away for a month.  It rained considerably during that time so the poor corms sat soaked through and just rotted away.  I won't make that mistake again.

Overwintering Tibouchina

Posted: 29/10/2015 at 15:15

My little Tibouchina plant from Lidl has grown quite tall and lanky.  It is about to flower.

Last year with a similar plant I brought it into a cold coservatory where it promptly dropped its buds and gave up the ghost.

I think I need to bring it indoors again, but should I cut it back?  Should I keep it fairly dry or does it need water?  Experienced advice needed please.

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