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Gold1locks


Latest posts by Gold1locks

Scarifier / aerators / rake

Posted: 16/04/2013 at 17:09

My largish lawn is on rather compacted clay and gets a lot of moss each winter and dries out quickly in summer. I keep on top of the moss with lawnsand, but there is a lot of 'thatch'.

I have been dithering over whether to buy an electric scarifier, or a combi scarifier / rake, or whether to hire one.

 I bought one of those manual hollow tine aerator intending to brush sharp sand into the holes but the tines got jammed with sticky clay -  it was such a fag I gave up.   I have seen petrol  pluggers for hire - is that a power version?  Some electric scarifiers claim to be aerators as well, but if they just prick holes in the lawn won't these close up again? 

Advice appreciated from anyone who has been there, done it, got the teeshirt....

The very best variegated herbaceous n perennial plants....and do you like em?

Posted: 16/04/2013 at 16:54

Depends on the plant - I love variegated hollies, thymes, elaeagnus, ivies (Buttercup ) and a lot more besides, but have several plants that have reverted to boring green, such as euonymus aureomarginata, despite pruning out green shoots when I saw any, lysimachia punctata Alexander and iris pallida argentea variegata, In each case the plain green is really dull. .Some varieties are less stable than others. 

I bought a Ceanothis Zanzibar once, on impulse, but never really liked it - the combination of leaf and flower jarred on the eye. I kept meaing to dig it up but a cold winter saw it off anyway. I love rhododendrons but can't stand variegated ones. But that's just a personal view - I know someone who loves her Zanzibar. 

How do I prune this plant?

Posted: 16/04/2013 at 10:28

It's a grass of some sort - and it should be cut back as far as you can right now. If you leave it you will shear of the tops of new growth that should be on its way by now. 

Plants for edging a path

Posted: 15/04/2013 at 21:57

We use variegated thyme - it creeps over the edge but only a few inches. 

Still Very Slow

Posted: 15/04/2013 at 16:35

Much better!! 

Wisteria never bloomed in 2nd yr

Posted: 15/04/2013 at 09:23

Not sure from your message whether it flowered in its first year (for example you may have bought it ready to flower. 

Wisteria can take years to flower. Species wisteria sinensis is often grown from seed and these can take seven or more years to flower. I have two hybrids that have still not flowered after three years! 

Don't prune it back hard as this will delay flowering for a few more years. Round about July time cut each strand back to within five leaves of the main stem, to encourage flower buds rather than leafy growth, and then in February cut back again to within two buds of the main stem, the idea being that the two nearest the main stem are the ones most likely to produce flowers and energy is diverted to these. 

Having said that, this advice is coming from someone who has not managed to produce a single flower yet, so maybe someone can give you better advice!! 

 

 

Has anyone got buds on there apple tree yet

Posted: 14/04/2013 at 17:54

Buds getting  break on my apples and pears - white tips on the flowering buds, but it will be a couple of weeks before they open (I'm in Lincolnshire)

Need help indentifing this plant/ shrub etc

Posted: 14/04/2013 at 17:52

I am certain from your description that what you are describing is indeed ivy. what may be throwing you is that ivy doesn't flower and fruit while it is in upward climbing mode, but once it gets to the top of whatever it is clinging to then it flops and produces a different shaped leaf altogether, quite unlike the earlier form. And it produces its fruit in winter, great for these fruits are exactly how you describe them, clusters of green balls with black eyes. 

Here's a close up of ivy fruit:

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.cas.vanderbilt.edu/bioimages/biohires/h/hhehe--fr30542.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.cas.vanderbilt.edu/bioimages/image/h/hehe--fr30542.htm&h=1440&w=2160&sz=532&tbnid=kzrR50N7t-C3RM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=135&prev=/search%3Fq%3Divy%2Bfruit%26tbm%3Disch%26tbo%3Du&zoom=1&q=ivy+fruit&usg=__c03BBpRnoHnbidVStV9u8hmYNCE=&docid=iwasjtTWfKOO_M&hl=en&sa=X&ei=V91qUZiaOq-b1AWm-YHABw&sqi=2&ved=0CEUQ9QEwAg&dur=494

and here's a photo of an adult ivy leaf with tiny unripened fruit.

;http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q=adult+ivy+leaf&bav=on.2,or.r_qf.&biw=1309&bih=697&ix=sea&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=isch&source=og&sa=N&tab=wi&ei=ad5qUbL0CoLH0QWk1IGYCw#imgrc=mfmF-Uwwd14mbM%3A%3BWxQ24eIKOfK3DM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.aphotoflora.com%252Fimages%252Faraliaceae%252Fhedera_helix_common_ivy_leaf_adult_18-09-04.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.aphotoflora.com%252Faf_hedera_helix_common_ivy.html%3B640%3B480

 

 

weedkiller

Posted: 14/04/2013 at 16:46

Quite right, Berghill. I should choose my words more carefully. It does not immediately degenerate into harmless substances on entering the soil, but it ceases to have any harmful affect on plants around which it is applied as it is not absorbed by the roots.

It should not be applied with a sprayer close to ponds as run off can affect  pond life. 

weedkiller

Posted: 14/04/2013 at 15:27

The Wilko weedkilelr contains glyphosate, which becomes deactivated once it is in contact with the soil , so as Lazy Gardener says, you can plant right away. However, in your case, wait until the ground elder has gone brown (2 weeks or so this time of year). If you cultivate the soil before this the ground elder roots may not have been killed and it can reappear. this weed is particularly nasty in lawns, so keep a close eye out for any leaves that reappear after you apply the weedkiller. You need two weeks without any new shoots to appear before you can start cultivating the soil.

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