Latest posts by Gold1locks

savingfrost damaged old roses

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 19:05

Wow, Obelixx, I knew it was cold where you are, but that's awesome. 

I was sure my bay trees were goners until yesterday. Practically every leaf was brown, most had fallen off. I started cutting them back, and when I got half way down I noticed that the bark was juicy inside, but not a sign of a bud anywhere. And then I saw two little red dots an inch above ground level on one of them. So there is still hope. 

My campsis radicans Indian summer looked dead, but yesterday I saw a couple of shoots at ground level. 

And as for the rule that ceanothus don't break from old wood, I have one that looks dead as a doornail, but just noticed several small green shoots breaking from the main stem at the base, and it's about  two inches thick.

savingfrost damaged old roses

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 14:29

If they were grown on their own roots then there is always the possibility that they might recover from below surface level, rather than send up a rootstock sucker. I don't know if a rose like New Dawn will sucker. I would cut it down to about three or four inches above ground level, so that if there is any life left in the roots they may produce a new bud or two. It's an outside chance, but you never know.Just checked, and New Dawn is a VERY hardy rose:

Victoria Plum Tree

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 13:14

I would, and get another one. It will fruit several years earlier than the one you've got. 

Wild Sorrel

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 13:12

You will need a selective herbicide. Grazon is one I have used successfully but you need to get it from a commercial horticultural supplier. It contains triclopyr as the active ingredient. 

If you can't get hold of it, Verdone extra has the same ingredient and is available in any garden centre. 

It will kill the sorrel and not the grass, but it will kill other broadleaved wildflowers as well. And the ground will be full of seeds. Fortunately they don't have a long life, one or two years. Dock seeds can survive for 100 years!!

Victoria Plum Tree

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 12:59

That's unusual. Could you look again at the new growth. If it is definitely above the join it won't be the rootstock, but this sort of occurence is what happens when a graft fails, and the new growth emerges just below or on the join. If you are sure it is above the join then you could prune it back to the new growth and train one shoot to be a replacement main stem. But if it were me I wouldn't bother. For all the effort, and the risk that it will fail, or that it may turn out in years to come that it IS the rootstock.I'd try and get a replacement. Last weekend I saw them cheap in  (or outside, rather) Poundland or Poundstretcher - can't remember which.   

Bind Weed

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 12:49

Taking up FloBear's suggestion, resist the temptation to zap the bindweed too early. Let it grow well up the cane. The roots of a well established plant can go down 10 metres in good soil conditions!! When you treat with glyphosate, it is drawn down into the root system by the plant, but the distance it travels depends on how much has been applied, so the more leafage you zap the better. Any root far enough down to have avoided the glyphosate will send up new shoots, and when they appear, do the same thing - leave them till you have a good surface area. After two or three applications the root will be exhausted. 

I have been trying to eradicate Bear's Breeches - it has a massive fleshy root system. This is my third year of regular zapping it, and at last it seems to have given up. Just a few small leaves have appeared, and they have been zapped today. 


Posted: 02/05/2012 at 12:36

Thanks for the deads up! Just checked, and the minimum night temperature in my area Saturday and Sunday is 1 C or 3 C depending on the forecaster. Either way that means a ground frost, so my weekend planting plans have just changed! 

Compost, they reckon !!!

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 07:57

Spent mushroom compost will have lost most of its fertilizing capability, but it will still have a lot of trace elements that are important for plant health, so it is a good mulch, and good for working in with the rest of your compost, and is also good as a soil conditioner as Sotongeoff says. Be careful where you apply it though. It is alkaline, so don't apply it round ericacious plants such as rhodies, camellias, calluna, skimmias, and don't add it to your veg patch if it is already alakaline. If it is acidic then mushroom compost will help - most veggies prefer slightly alkaline soil.


Posted: 02/05/2012 at 07:43

I presume you are not in a drought area, using a pressure washer.

I just use elbow grease. Even better is to clean it as soon as you have used it, which is much easier, except that it's probably that last thing you feel like doing after you have finished mowing.

Talkback: How to pinch out fuchsias

Posted: 02/05/2012 at 07:40

Yes. Otherwise they can be a bit straggly.

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