Latest posts by Gold1locks

Massive lawn help

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 13:23

When you said the topsoil looked more like fertilizer, did you mean 'compost'? A lot of topsoil sold in bags in garden centres is actually a mix of yopsoil and compost. 

Massive lawn help

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 13:20

I think it was probably a bit early this year for sowing grass seed. If I can remember correctly, the ideal soil temperature for germination is 7-10 C, and the seed needs between one and two weeks at this temperature to chit. 

The stock advice is to sow in September for preference, but if you sow in spring then the end of March is the earliest sowing time, but this depends on which part of the country you are in and also on you having normal weather for that time of year. I don't think we have had normal weather. 

As for the condition of the seed, if it's still there and then it should germinate once it has the right soil temperature over a period. It won't spoil,  so don't give up on it yet.  

What's the weather like in your area?

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 12:58

Ah again!!! Just realised that when I get an email and click to the thread, it takes me to the first post, one page further on than the page you pointed me to, MuddyFork. I'll just have to hope the techies sort out the 'take me to the latest post' bug before too long. 

Talkback: How to take rose cuttings

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 11:00

Paul n,

I am interested in your July cuttings. Did you cover them or did you just leave them exposed. I have always had a fear that they would dry out. I even wondered about Monty taking cuttings in September. I did likewise and mosts stuck OK. the earlier I can take them the better, as it leaves more time for them to put out a few roots before winter.

On last week's GW the euphorbia expert said his top tip was NOT to cover euphorbia cuttings.

I am just wondering whether I have been over protective some of the time. Covering cuttings can cause its own problems with fungal infection.

What's the weather like in your area?

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 10:54

Ah! many thanks MuddyFork. Now why didn't I spot that.

Plastic Plant pots - recycled

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 10:50

Yes it is a terrific book. He challenged many conventions as to what works and doesn't work, in terms of methods, timings etc.. I have never found a book anywhere like as good. 

The course was a two day affair, a birthday pressie, with overnight accommodation in a great B&B farmhouse, and he took us into a garden to strike cuttings, take seeds etc., many of unusual varieties, and we took our efforts home. He really was inspirational. 

self-seeded honeysuckle

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 08:40

I would think the original is either the lonicera periclymenum Belgica (the early Dutch one) or Serotina (the late Dutch one). They are cultivars of our native wild honeysuckle that have been around for a long time. I suspect the seedling won't come true to seed. It might not produce so many flowers, and the colour may be more like the native species, white and yellow. But...... you never know. It should certainly produce fragrant flowers. You won't have long to find out!

What's the weather like in your area?

Posted: 30/04/2012 at 08:06

Could we start a new thread for May? I only ever get to page 10 when clicking the 'view last post', and then have to click again and scroll to get there.

Lovely morning. Now OH has pointed out all those jobs that have been piling up! Deadheading bergenias, rose pruning, planting up recent purchases, lawn......... 

Kerria japonica 'Pleniflora' pruning

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 20:09

Prune it back right after flowering. Cut all the stems that have flowered right back as hard as you like. Leave any younger stems as these will bear next year's flowers. 

TREE - Laburnum x watereri 'Vossii

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 20:06

Now that size of font is sure to get my attention!!!! How did you do it?

First of all, it's a lovely tree. 

One legal source gives the safe distance for a laburnum as 30 feet, but that a very cautious figure, and is for heavy clay soil that shrinks and expands a lot according to moisture level. A deciduous tree will suck up moisture when in leaf, during summer when the soil is naturally drier anyway. In winter when the soil is much wetter the tree does not draw up any moisture, so the effect of these trees in heavy clay soil is that the foundations can rise / fall a lot more over the course of a year. In well drained soils you can plant much closer. In practice, I have read somewhere that very few instances of subsidence damage occur where the tree is 16 feet or more away from the house.

A couple of  other things to consider:

Laburnum pods / seeds are very poisonous, so don't plant one close to a pond that has fish it it, and bear in mind that inquisitive young children might try eating a seed.

Careful not to plant above drainage. It can be expensive to repair. 

Discussions started by Gold1locks


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