Latest posts by Gold1locks

Algae on my seedlings

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 13:08

A good tip to reduce algae /liverworts/ moss is to sow the seed in compost as usual but cover them with fine vermiculite rather than compost. Algae live off the nutrients in the compost - vermiculite is nutrient free. This is also a good way of avoiding algae on cuttings that take a long time to root, such as camellias, rhododendrons etc.. I am not sure whether the algae do any harm, but it can appear alarming. 


Posted: 29/04/2012 at 12:59

My Imperial Gems are 12" apart, in runs either side of the path leading to the front door. When in flower they are around 16" - 18" tall, but that includes about 8" of flower spike. The flowers do splay out a bit, which I think is lovely when you brush past them, as you get that extra whiff of fragrance. 

Anemone de Caen

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 12:44


I found this on a gardening website. It explains why I was cautious about keeping anemone de Caen in pots over winter. Of course it may be that this advice does not apply to anemones, but I could find nothing about growing them in pots.

Knowing your plant hardiness zone is particularly important if you are growing perennials, trees or shrubs in your garden pots. If you live in a cold zone, you'll want to make sure your plants are rated for two zones colder than your area, because the roots of container plants get colder in pots than if they were in the ground.

Anemone de Caen

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 12:35


I try very hard to give good information, and sometimes I do check on websites before replying, though I don't attempt to reply to anything I don't think I have some personal experience of. I did say I had no personal experience of growing them in pots, and I know that the UK zones are 7-10, so anemones should be fine in open ground, as mine are.  I was responding to the suggestion of keeping them in pots, i.e. above ground. I do know that for many plants the hardiness zones refer to their tolerance of low temperatures in the ground. For example, Japanese maples typically are quoted as hardy to zones 5 - 6, but are less hardy in pots, and I have lost one or two due to prolonged very cold winter temperatures in Wales (1000 ft up) 

When I said anemones are not very hardy, I should have explained that I was referring to the idea of keeping them in pots. By comparison, crocuses, tulips, daffodils are hardy down to Zones 3 or 4.   

Sometimes we get it wrong, Blairs, and when we do most other boarders gently put one another right by offering the benefit of their own experiences and not use words like 'rubbish' to describe another boarder's efforts. While you may know your anemones you clearly have a lot to learn about good manners. 

Now, where's that 'ignore' button. 

New site - bugs

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 09:54

I am wondering whether the default setting only works for new threads responded to for the first time after the default has been changed, and you still get emails for threads responded to before the default change, unless you click on the link on each email disabling responses.

yellow rust on hoolyhocks

Posted: 29/04/2012 at 09:30

Rust is such a major problem for hollyhocks that they are really best treated as a biennial. They will almost certainly get infected in their first year of flowering, and rust spores will splash up from the soil onto lower leaves and reinfect the plants early on in the following year. 

You can try to minimise the problem by removing all the lower leaves, and you can try rust resistant varieties. I have done both and it didn't make any difference.  

Planting a Rambling Rector

Posted: 28/04/2012 at 19:26

Definitely not a rose for a pot! 

Camelia Japonica

Posted: 28/04/2012 at 19:24

Move it as soon as the flowers have faded, or earlier if you don't mind losing this year's flowers. Prune it as soon as you have moved it. You can prune it as much as you need to. If possible site it away from morning sun to avoid damage to the flowers from morning sun on frosty days. Incorporate moisture retaining organic matter into the planting hole and don't let it dry out in the months after replanting. 

BBC Gardening Arrivals - Meeting Point

Posted: 28/04/2012 at 19:06

Hi Loopyloo, 

It WAS Rozanne I was talking about. I have both I should have checked my spreadsheet list. From your description I can see why I have not been able to divide it yet. It does not form separate rosettes and is not fibrous rooted, and my soil is poor, so it hasn't got big enough yet to split in the way you describe. I will feed it and keep an eye on it. There are so few geraniums that flower over so long a period. 

I have also found Aster 'Monch', after a three year search. In the end I found it at Barnsdale's garden centre shop. It flowers from July until October, very unusual for asters, and is mildew resistant. It regularly comes in professionals' top ten perennials (including AT) but you can't get it in 99% of garden centres because it is slow to propagate. Now mine is big enough to split. It will go well with Rozanne. 

ANYWAY, so pleased to see you here, and I am sure a lot of other old acquaintances are too. 

Lavender - how to plant/space out so as to let plants thrive?!

Posted: 28/04/2012 at 07:41

I can understand why Monty says to cut back in the first year so that the lavender concentrates on growth rather than flowering (I assume you mean before flowering as you should cut them back every year after flowering), but I for one just couldn't bring myself to do it - go a whole year before seeing flowers.  It's hard enough having to look at juicy rhubarb stems or asparagus shoots on first year plants and having to resist picking them.

Each year after flowering I cut mine back really low, to about two inches above ground level. I don't worry about old / new wood - they all get a grade 1. Mind you, you have to do that right from the first year. The effect is that I get stems no thicker than a mini-straw, and when I cut them back every stem sends up new growth. Last year I missed one and by the time I cut it back the stems were the thickness of a knitting needle, but they still all produced new growth.I have had mine in for five years, and they still look as compact and vigorous as they were in year 2. 

You can stagger the flowering period by pruning some immediately after flowering, and leave others to prune in spring. 

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