Latest posts by Gold1locks

New site - bugs

Posted: 25/04/2012 at 16:02

I know you are aware of the intermittent appearance of the 'view last post first' link on top left, but i have just noticed that on the following thread the link is visible, but doesn't take you beyond page 1 - at least not when I tried it just now.

can you have too much night

Posted: 25/04/2012 at 15:50

It helps!. Many commercial growers keep their lighting on up to 24 hours a day for tomatoes, chillis, cucumbers, bedding plants, foliage plants.

There are exceptional plants, such as poinsettias and chrysanthemums, where the amount of day / night has to be carefully controlled (periods of short days followed by periods of long days or vice versa - can't remember which). 


Posted: 25/04/2012 at 15:40


Japanese Anemone root cuttings

Posted: 25/04/2012 at 14:00

Usually they start developing roots after 3 - 4 weeks, and then new shoots should follow pretty quickly. So you are a tad early in your expectations. 


Posted: 25/04/2012 at 13:56

Hi Biddy, 

I assumed you had to take cuttings. I did so last year, bought a couple of plug plants and struck quite a few cuttings from them.

What did you do with your nemesias after you divided them?  Did you overwinter them?  I tried this in my cold greenhouse but was unsuccessful. 

Seeking help identifying my soil type

Posted: 25/04/2012 at 13:06

My house was built seven years ago. The garden has had 12 " of topsoil laid on top of compressed clay / limestone that I guess was compacted by heavy machinery using what was to be my garden as a route to deliver loads of bricks etc.. to houses being built at the same time. If I want to plant anything substantial I have to take a 5 foot long, very heavy crowbar, heavy duty mattock, pick axe, and spade, and it's hard graft. When we get long periods of heavy rain like now large puddles form in certain areas. One summer I lost several climbing roses that had just been planted that winter due to them being flooded. When planting a few weeks later I still found that, in some areas, once I got 12" down the hole kept filling with water.

In long periods of drought my young trees and shrubs really struggled to start with. But now I reckon most have found a way to get some roots through the hardpan to keep them going in drought conditions. 


Posted: 25/04/2012 at 12:53

I use soft lead pencil on plastic white labels, but the plastic goes brittle after a couple of years. I used to use aluminium labels that you write on with a sharp pointed metal scriber. They last forever but you have to get up close and personal to read them. 


Posted: 25/04/2012 at 12:48

 It's all very strange. Magnolia stellata is hardy to -25 C and lower, according to the magnolia specialist sites, and it grows in Zone 4, -28C, in its native Japan. My MIL had one in her garden in Wales, 1000 feet up, where we had night temperatures of -13 C and never above -3 C for two weeks one winter, and it was fine. 

Magnolia stellata has moderate drought tolerance when established as yours was, provided it is planted in good moisture holding soil, ideally acidic, though it will do well in alkaline soil in humus rich soil. If your magnolia was suffering from drought then I think you would have noticed it shed quite a lot of its leaves. 

I have lost most of my ceanothus, all my established bay trees, and my two chenomeles Crimson and Gold have been cut dead to the base, where there is some new growth. I have never had this before. The chaenomeles is supposed to be as hardy as the magnolia stellata hybrid that has just flowered brilliantly in my alkaline soil - down to -25 C!!

Maybe it is the cold weather - maybe very hardy plants grown in relatively mild climates get 'soft' and then are vulnerable  to unusually low temperatures. MIL's stellata was used to much cold winters, so maybe it grew up tough. 

I have decided that I am going to replace my ceanothus (Concha) with the same variety, in the same spot, with added Rootgrow. I am taking a risk, but I can't believe we'll have two such hard winters again for quite a few years. Maybe you should do the same. 

seedling compost

Posted: 25/04/2012 at 12:17

That's interesting, Bookertoo. So Westlands can be very variable too. Maybe I shouldn't be so sure when buying from my garden centre. Or maybe big garden centres are quick to spot and return dodgy stuff to the manufacturers. Touch wood, I have never had a bad bag, well not in terms of consistency, though I did have one that must have had some sort of harmless fungus in it, that didn't appear right away but that formed a white coating on top of my potted on plants. It did them no harm, but I suspect that seedlings wouldn't have liked it. 


Posted: 25/04/2012 at 10:00

What a shame. Unusual for this hardy plant to die without warning after being established for so long.I'd be reluctant to replant with anything valuable, especially the same species, without having a good idea of the cause. Did it show any symptoms, like leaves yellowing over the summer, or oozing from the bark, or toadstools in the autumn?

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