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Gold1locks


Latest posts by Gold1locks

Iberia

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 16:42

And when you have cut it back it will produce lots of new growth that can be propagated easily by taking cuttings. The same goes for aubretias. I bought a few aubretias a year ago and one in particular is a lovely colour, so I'm itching to get at it in a month or so's time. 

BBC Gardening Arrivals - Meeting Point

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 14:09

I didn't think it was you. I was just thinking that if Groundelder comes over then he/she will have to find another name too! Musical Chairs! Keeps us on our toes. 

Horsetail weeds

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 14:04

I agree with Patsy. Glyphosate will get rid of it, provided you regard it as a three year project, and check for any new growth weekly during the growing season. It's rather like the alternative treatment, which is to pull the stuff out as soon as it appears, weekly, but more effective. 

Mare's Tail is a bit like bindweed in that it has an extensive root system that stores energy. This energy is used to send up new shoots. You need to kill the root system by exhausting it, and that means denying it any opportunity for photosynthesis. If it receives sunlight it creates new energy (glucose - which turns to starch) and whisks it down into the root system and out of reach.  So you can't let any of it escape your attention for any amount of time. the advantage of glyphosate over pulling by hand is that the plant draws the glyphosate down into the root system, maybe for 12" - 18" before it is used up, so new growth has to be pushed up a longer distance before it gets to the top (and to daylight!). 

If you don't keep 100% on top of it, it will defeat the glyphosate, which is why so many gardeners say that glyphosate doesn't work on Mare's Tail, Bindweed, Bear's Breeches and other weeds with deep energy storing root systems. But if you are relentless in your pursuit of it, scouring the ground for any new growth and zapping it right away, you should be able to get rid of it. Unless you are like one poor soul whose Mare's Tail is coming across from his next door neighbour's infested garden! 

Ceanothus

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 13:20

Keep it on the support for now, until the branches have really firmed up and can withstand sindy conditions. It will soon become self supporting, and those thin shoots will in time grow to be several inches across. 

Today I dug up two of my mature ceanothus 'Concha' that got zapped by the cold winter.  One had a tiny green shoot emerging from a 3" diameter stem at the base, but as they only have a limited life I decided to replace it with another. Surely we can't have two winters like the last two - not for a few years anyway!  

A few of our bulbs.

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 12:51

Very nice, Berghill. 

On Sunday we bought lots of shallow pots for planting up bulbs / corms in autumn ready for next spring - ideally ones that last more than a week or so. Our cyclamen coum, planted in the border, produces flowers over an 8 week period. I know that's not going to be possible with bulbs, but can you suggest anything? 

idea's please

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 12:43

Following on from Alina's advice about gypsum, builders merchants supply it as builder's plaster - 99.5% gypsum plus some pink colouring. And get them to deliver bags of sharp sand too - lots of it! I bought two bags just today, for potting up sempervivums that need good drainage. I paid around £2 per 25kg bag. Don't get builders sand, which contains salts. 

plant support for crocosmia lucifer

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 12:33

You should get flowers this summer! all the necessary 'ingredients' are already in the corms 

This video may be useful:

http://video.about.com/gardening/Crocosmia-Care.htm

BBC Gardening Arrivals - Meeting Point

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 12:20

There was a Beeb board member called Groundelder. 

idea's please

Posted: 24/04/2012 at 11:30

If it were me I would start by improving the soil by working in loads of organic such as manure,  and sharp sand, to improve drainage. It will take some doing, and it may mean writing much of this year off getting it right, but once you have done that then you have a garden ready for lots of plants that don't grow so well in my exposed garden with little shade. Clay soil is usually very rich in minerals, so once the soil structure is improved you will be able to enjoy hostas, hellebores, primulas, pulmonarias, acteas, rodgersias, I could go on for ages.

By all means fit in a patio area so you can sit out and enjoy it in summer sunshine,. 

Help! Tens of Tree Saplings all over lawn - how to kill?

Posted: 23/04/2012 at 22:30

I have had something similar, with hedging trees sending up suckers in my lawn. I have applied glyphosate (Roundup) to the leaves using rubber gloves and wiping it onto the leaves between finger and thumb, taking care not to get it on the grass. I leave the lawn uncut for a week afterwards. The glyphosate will gradually kill the part of the root system leading to the suckers, but won't kill the tree. It won't stop them coming back but will reduce them.

Discussions started by Gold1locks

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Website problems?

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BBC Gardening Arrivals - Meeting Point

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11 threads returned