Gold1locks


Latest posts by Gold1locks

Sambuca Nigra

Posted: 19/04/2012 at 10:27

I grew Black Lace a few years ago. It looked like a lovely small Japanese maple in the garden centre but it grew into a very thirsty big shrub, much bigger than the space I had allocated to it, so out it came after a year. Regular hard pruning in autumn/ early spring apparently reduces the amount of flowers, as it flowers best on year old wood, from what I understand. Maybe Obelixx can put me straight on that if I am wrong.

BBC Gardening Arrivals - Meeting Point

Posted: 19/04/2012 at 10:10

Is it a pun on the name of a certain French novelist??

fertilizers

Posted: 19/04/2012 at 09:57

For most blends of fertilizer you can get slow release and quick release, though many of the slow release ones are only available to the horticultural trade, where plants are kept in pots for a whole selling season. The difference is that fast release fertilizers are readily soluble, which is good if you want a quick fix that you will repeat every few weeks, but easily leached away into the sub-soil after rain. Slow release fertilizers are usually produced inside bead-like capsules which dissolve slowly depending on temperature. There will often be a mix of different capsule coatings in one pack of fertilizer, so some will dissolve within a few weeks, and others will take a few months. I have used a tree and shrub fertilizer that released its goodies over a full year, ideal for a nursery selling trees in pots. 

Blood Fish and Bone is less expensive balanced fertilizer that is slow release without needing to be encapsulated because it's constituents only dissolve slowly. 

As others have said, Tomato feed does not need to be applied until the first flowers have set.

Talkback: Vine weevil

Posted: 19/04/2012 at 09:22

All vine weevils are female. The adults are not the real problem. They disfigure leaves by biting chunks out of the edges. They don't fly, and walk about during the night, moving from plant to plant munching and laying eggs. You can only see them at night, and the best way is to lay newspaper under a plant they are attacking and shake it. they drop onto the paper. They lay eggs several times a year, and these hatch out at irregular intervals into the larvae that do so much damage.By the time you notice the symptoms of a larval attack it is often too late. Use Provado Vine Weevil Killer as a preventative, (not Provado Ultimate Bug Killer, which is different). Don't use it on edible crops like strawberries. You need to use it twice a year as the weevils can come back 8 weeks after application when it has worn off.  

On edible crops you can use nematodes, but they only work from April to October when the soil temperature is above a certain temperature (can't remember but think it is around 5 C. The only alternative is to remove the plants in the dormant season, wash the roots thoroughly and replant in fresh compost. Remember that if you don't see larvae it does not mean there are not tiny eggs that will soon hatch into larvae. 

Because it's expensive stuff, I only use Provado on pot plants, which are much more vulnerable, and on heucheras and sedums in the garden soil. If I am overwintering pots in the greenhouse I occasionally tip them gently out of the pot, check for grubs, and then put them back. 

This is a vine weevil adult. 

http://www.dgsgardening.btinternet.co.uk/vineweevil4.jpg

This is a larva (grub)

http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Guardian/About/General/2011/5/5/1304614842239/Vine-Weevil-larvae-Otiorr-007.jpg

Hosepipe Ban

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 20:07

Aaaarrrrgggghhhh! Well, that's cocked this thread up good and proper. Just discovered that cut and paste does not work like it does on the Beeb site, and there is no message preview sjo you can check before posting. I'll know next time. 

Hosepipe Ban

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 20:03
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when to take fuschia cuttings

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 17:35

I bought several fuchsias and the creeping lysimachia nummularia from my local garden centre four weeks ago - 75p each - and two weeks later took three cuttings from each. They have all rooted and the parent plants are now bigger than ever and ready for some more cuttings. 

You can do the same with petunias. I once got around 30 plants from one tiny one bought in February, producing 6 first generation cuttings, and the rest second generation. I then sold them at a plant sale in June at £1 each! 

bald !

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 17:29

I am reliably informed that chicken manure works. Give it a go! 

Which tree won't drop sap or berries?

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 17:21

Many trees that produce berries don't cause any problems. You need to avoid the likes of elderberry, but sorbuses, hollies, cotoneasters (the tree forms such as 'Cornubia' ) and the amalanchier mentioned by Lilylouise  don't drip sap and don't drop soft berries that stain.

Elderberries are the worst for berries because the birds eat them and then drop purple poo away from the tree. 

Lime trees, maples, walnuts are some of the worst for dripping sap. 

Bluebells- Spanish or English?

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 17:12

I use glyphosate, doctored with a few drops of washing up liquid as a wetting agent. I use a hand spray (an old glass cleaner handgun) and gently squeeze a few droplets down the V in the leaves, so it runs down to the base. If you have a lot and they are mixed in with more desirable plants  you could use a rubber glove on your right hand, dip your finger and thumb into a bowl containing glyphosate solution, shake droplets off into the bowl to avoid accidental dripping, and then rub finger and thumb along the leaves to smear them.  That worked a treat for me on MIL's garden a few years ago. It also got rid of ground elder in her lawn! 

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