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Latest posts by greenlove

English forest design for front garden.

Posted: 09/08/2013 at 23:02

I'll have a look at Celandine family and see what varietyies are not invasive. Seems like a nice plant and reminds me of my tropical aquarium in which I had a plant called Riccia which formed a lovely lush carpet.

English forest design for front garden.

Posted: 02/08/2013 at 00:25

This may be a long shot but does anyone know what the plant that covers the ground in the photo below is called?


English forest design for front garden.

Posted: 28/07/2013 at 23:46

Ok, no weed suppressant membrane. Lilly of the valley is also off the list due to it being quite poisonous and invading plant. I have two little daughters who are in the phase of "picking flowers" and I have no intention of putting them at risk of poisoning. When they grow up enough to understand I may add some pots of lily of the valley (but have no intention of planting it in the garden soil).

Have ordered the Sango Kaku acer (shown in the link in the first post) and also 8 pots (2l) of evergreen ferns. Will add more varieties of ferns as I go along.

The english bluebells, crocus and snow drops should arrive around Aug-Sep period.

Two questions:

1. Does anyone know when hostas go on offer?

2. Does any one know a good (service and price) place where to buy pebbles, cobbles and boulders (rounded ones with which to create the riverbed)?

English forest design for front garden.

Posted: 27/07/2013 at 17:05

Bergenias sound like a good option for a bit of colour in winter.


Should I use some anti weed cloth as well? If so is there a specific one that is recommended? I did read somewhere that the anti weed fleece can sometimes "suffocate" the soil and kill any good bacteria in it.

English forest design for front garden.

Posted: 27/07/2013 at 00:49

Thank you very much for the replies everyone. Let me clarify first that I do not intend to plant Oak or any other large growning tree in the front garden. I was merely using oak as an example.

The front garden originally was covered in turf grass and I have turned with a fork 3/4 of the area and have managed to clear the roots carefully one by one. A painful job but I'd rather do it properly from the beginning rather than pay for my mistakes later.

Where i am is a nice area but then again you can never be certain now-a-days so I have taken on board the comments regarding the tree ferns. Although sad about it I have decided to not include them in the design. Will replace them with "rooted" type of ferns instead (large varieties).

I'll also stack up on slug pellets.

The design will also incoporate quite a few pieces of various sizes of stone, boulders and pebbles so that it will look like the plants are growing on a dried up river bed in a valley somewhere.

I hasve also got two large (jagged) tree stumps which after being in the centre of a balzing fire have charcoaled nicely and as a result will form a lovely background and give the place a more natural look if they were "dumped" in it and ferns and hostas had over time "naturally" grown around them.

The acer tree will not be central but instead I will follow the same rule that photographers use when taking pictures (i.e. the tree will be slightly to one side). Is Sango Kaku definitely a variety that I can't use? The front garden does get 2-3 hours of direct sun per day (in summer). Will that not be sufficient? The reason I ask is because i am very fond of that particular variety and it will add some colour to the garden especially in winter (with its bright red stems).

I have also been thinking about the ground cover problem (when the various bulb plants are dormant or have died). I think that because of the relatively small size of the garden if I use a dried river bed design with ferns and hostas scattered around it then it will still look nice even when the bulb plants are not active.


End of essay


English forest design for front garden.

Posted: 23/07/2013 at 21:50

At the front of my house I have a small garden which measures 7 x 4 metres (23 x 13 feet). It is a North facing garden which means that in the summer months the front of it gets partial sunshine (the west facing fence gets sunshine in the late afternoon for a few hours.

I intend to strip the grass and other weeds from it first before planting. I have tried to turn the soil with a spade and sift throgh it by hand removing the grass and other roots which is taking quite a long time. I feared that if I used  a rotivator all it will do is break the roots into smaller pieces and they would sprout again at the first opportunity. Am I right thinking this?

In terms of design I have thought to plant the whole surface with hundreds of bulbs, then plant a few scattered tree ferns (in a non symetrical way) and maybe one tree as a focal point. In each corner I'm thinking of planting clusters of various ferns.

The plants I intend to use include:

Bluebells, snowdrops, lily of the valley, crocus

Hostas, various ferns, tree ferns

In terms of the focal tree an oak one would have been nice to create a proper English forest look but I do realise that it would be overkill considering the size of the front garden.


I am quite keen on using an Acer Palmatum Sango Kaku:

I am aware though that it may be more suitable for a Japanese garden so thought to ask people's ideas regarding using it? Would it "fit in" with the rest of the plants being used? Or would it look too much out of place?


Any thoughts are appreciated.


Best fruit cage materials?

Posted: 24/06/2013 at 01:11

They're nylon connectors. Tried the washing up liquid but that didnt work. In the end tried tapping them with a rubber mallet and that worked fine. My only worry with these is that when I have to take the thing apart the connectors will very likely break inside the tubing. They are way too tight to come out by rotating counterclockwise.

Best fruit cage materials?

Posted: 22/06/2013 at 14:03

The tubing and connectors arrived yesterday (impressed by the speed of delivery) from Two Wests & Elliott. The only problem i'm having is that the tubing seems to be a bit tight and the connectors wont fit in all the way. They go in half way and get stuck and not push any further. i dont want to exercise too much force coz im worried of breaking the connectors. Does anyone have any suggestions for this?


Best fruit cage materials?

Posted: 20/06/2013 at 22:10

Rather than buying a full ready made cage I decided to calculate what I need and but the compnents so that I can put together myself. The only reason I didnt want to get the ready made frame was because I am not keen on the plastic netting they come with. So I have ordered the frame in 19mm tubing together with all the connectors to put it together and to build the door with. I have also ordered the netting separately which is galvanised chicken wire 25mm hole. Got the ground pegs as well. 


The reason I went for the 19mm tubing (apart from being affirdable) is because I do not intend to keep the cage up in the winter period. In fact as soon as the fruit (blueberries, fourberries and redcurrants) is ripe and harvested I intend to take the chicken wire off.

If I take the chicken wire off should I dismantle the frame as well or leave it as it is?

Best fruit cage materials?

Posted: 19/06/2013 at 21:41
Bookertoo wrote (see)

Try two westss and elliot, cheaper than agriframes.  I have an awkwardly shaped site that I wanted to use for a fruit cage, I sent them the measurements and they sorted out exactly what I needed, sent it out with instructions - excellent value.  They do their things in various thicknesses etc., so yu cafn choose what you can afford and what your preferred appearance is. I find the cage excellent, as we grow currants, apples, cherries, bluberries gooseberries etc, and would have little fruit without it. 


Funny you mention it because Two Wests and Elliott is the webiste that I have been looking for and found to be the cheapest around. Is the tubing of your cage 19mm or 25mm?

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10 threads returned