- Retired IT specialist. Love my garden but my days of digging ponds and laying paths are over. Not got the energy now. But I still love plants and planting! I have a cottage style garden as I love the lushness of it.
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Today at 18:01
THe point is an ideal place to hide your compost bib/s. With a bit of trellis in front of it and some climbers up it, you would also have an ideal place for the dog...........
Yesterday at 21:23
oops - weigela isn't evergreen. A Viburnum of some sort?
Yesterday at 21:21
Yesterday at 21:20
Pair of Felco secateurs.
Yesterday at 19:49
Artichoke or asparagus?
Yesterday at 19:34
But did AT not use it in a water feature rather than a pond?
Yesterday at 19:31
1 is a pieris I think (does it turn pink in the spring?) and 3 is a gaultheria?
2 days ago at 21:18
Should not affect the decking at all. The top of the pool is presumably level with the decking? Even if the pool has been built on the decking the water will find its way down between the decking boards. You won't need a drill - a sharp lunge with a garden fork will do the trick if it is a plastic/butyl liner. If it is a preformed pool and built on top of the decking, the quickest way would be to disassemble the surround and then just tip the pool over. Or if level with the decking and preformed - the only way is with a drill as you say. Biggest drill bit you can find and do about at least half a dozen holes at the bottom. Bear in mind a drill is electric so the pond would have to be pretty empty before drilling!!!!!
2 days ago at 20:52
It doesn't sound as though the pots at the top are ideal. I would split your plants into little rooted bits, make a ball of moist soil round the roots, then cram them into the crevices on the face of the wall. I think you may have a better chance with that. Or you could try both if you have enough plugs.
2 days ago at 17:36
If it has a liner in it, just puncture the liner using a garden fork and it will drain away over time. I am guessing that it is not all that big?
2 days ago at 17:33
If it is a 'proper' dry stone wall the centre should be a pile of small rubble where potentially the roots could grow to. If they were not in plastic pots that is. If you take the plastic pots out, is there any drainage in the resulting hole or have you got a hole for the pot in a lump of concrete??
How big are the pots out of interest?
2 days ago at 17:29
How about an Amelanchier? Blossom in the spring, berries and red leaves in the autumn. A very well behaved small tree. I keep mine to about 11-12 foot.
2 days ago at 13:22
I would do all but the hydrangea. I have pruned shrubs before when the stems were hard with frost!! I work on the theory that jobs in the garden are best done when you feel the urge. Gardens are tough old boots in the main. I would wait until the hydrangea buds up a bit closer to spring.
2 days ago at 13:09
Unless they have been grown in a g/h which I doubt, they will be fine outside. They are hardy plants and need no special mollycoddling.
2 days ago at 13:07
I think the priority would be to do the new fencing first and secure the garden. Then put down on paper what you want and where and roughly cost it out. And factor in the time you have available to do the work and the on-going maintenance. Then prioritise it all and start an area at a time.
Don't dump the ivy down the bottom of the garden as it will all take root down there and colonise it so you will just have moved the problem. It needs to be got rid of either through your green bin scheme or bagged up and taken to the tip. Perennial weeds and shrub cuttings can all be cut into small pieces and heaped up in a pile and left to be broken down.
PS. 'Tropical' gardens are not cheap!!!.
Last edited: 17 February 2018 13:07:41
2 days ago at 12:45
Click on the camera icon to the right. Try resizing your photo to around 1000 pixels if it doesn't show up and try again.
2 days ago at 12:34
Nothing ventured nothing gained. If your soil is that good I would mix up some JI no 3 using it. You used to be able to buy a packet of nutrient mix for the various JI mixes. Not sure if you still can but the raw recipe is this for JI No. 3:
Mix 7 loam, 3 peat, 2 sand
J.I. Compost No. 3 - Fertilizer to add per 1 cubic metre of mix.
0.6kg ground limestone
3.6kg hoof and horn
1.8kg potassium sulphate.
2 days ago at 12:11
If the plant is pot bound, tease out the roots a bit before you plant. And keep an eye on the watering for the first year after it is in the ground.
3 days ago at 13:50
I'm not sure there are many new coldframes these days with glass in them, they are mostly polycarbonate so very light. You would need to fix it in some way on to the roof and keep it closed on windy days. Why not give it a go this year and see how you get on. If it doesn't work you can easily relocate it into the garden.
3 days ago at 13:41
Or get someone in to do the first cut so it is at a more manageable height for you to do in the future?