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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 24/07/2012 at 10:21

Gard, I used to live in Melbourne before I moved to Sydney before we came here to Italy. I know all about changeable weather. Melbourne has the infamous four different seasons in a day. The only real problem for toms in high temps is that they're reluctant to set fruit. Other than that they will cope providing you keep an eye on the moisture situation, which you're doing.

Yes, you need to harden off seedlings gradually. I've cooked a few in my time.

The problem with keeping things humid in a greenhouse in order to avoid one problem is that you invite other problems - like fungal disease.

Geoff, what do you reckon about Beck's pepper spots?

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 24/07/2012 at 10:14
Insomnia1973 wrote (see)

Well, I've just checked, and not another mite in sight. Oh well. I'll see how or if it progresses. I've stripped all the tomato plants of fungal leaves, so nothing much more I can do for now. Sun is beating down already.

Thanks for taking a look at the pics Italophile.

All you can do is keep watch on the pepper leaves. If it's fungal or bacterial, the spots will change and develop.

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 24/07/2012 at 08:16

Gard, toms will tolerate a lot higher than 25C, even in a greenhouse, but the sort of temp you're citing would be a problem. Outdoors it would be less of a problem - mine sit in a baking 40+C all day - but a greenhouse, even ventilated, can become effectively an oven. How likely is that your high-40sC will continue? You might need to look at erecting some shade cloth to keep the temp down.

Your watering routine is right. Requirements will vary with temperatures, etc. Water as and when required, not by rote.

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 24/07/2012 at 07:29
Insomnia1973 wrote (see)

I don't think it's your monitor. Might be my camera. Only a cheap and cheerful thing. I've just had a look, and there are no crusty bits. When you rub a spot it's totally smooth all over. I did see a tiny little mite on a leaf though. About the size of a spider mite, but yellowy orange.

Possibly a Red Spider Mite, they're pretty much an orange colour and they love peppers. Here are a couple:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/10200.jpg?width=481&height=350&mode=max

I've been wondering about insect damage because the spots don't look particularly fungal or bacterial. Have a look on the undersides of the leaves. It's usually where they hang out.

 

 

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 23/07/2012 at 18:27

It's definitely necrotic tissue. Is it my grubby monitor or are there some brown crusty bits developing within the margins of some of the larger spots?

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 23/07/2012 at 11:51

Always use secateurs or scissors to remove branches or even just foliage. Make a nice clean cut. Removing by hand can tear plant tissue. 

When you say the "B" word, you mean Blight? As I've posted here before, "Blight" has become a generic term for fungal disease. There are only two real Blights - Early and Late. You have neither, the symptoms don't fit yours. But it's clearly some sort of fungal disease. I'd keep as much space between at all times - including nighttime - to aid air circulation.

I thought the pepper spots might be early symptoms of something like Powdery Mildew but they're obviously not. PM spots are powdery on the leaf surface. Do they in any way resemble the spots visible on the less-affected lowest branch (pointing away from the camera) in the second last photo?

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 23/07/2012 at 07:39

Becks, curling of the top leaves of toms is common, often caused by over-watering and/or too much fertiliser.

The peppers. It's hard to tell even after magnifying the photo, but the white spots don't look like scorching on the leaves. Are the spots powdery and on the leaf surface? Or are the spots sunken?

Do the toms - and the peppers for that matter - live indoors or outdoors? The toms have a leaf mould problem. It's a very good housekeeping idea to take off the lower branches to maintain at least a foot of clear air/space between the lowest branch and the soil.

The second last photo is a good example. The two lowest branches shouldn't be there. The second lowest branch - pointing towards the camera - is the diseased one and you can also see early signs of disease on the lowest one pointing away from the camera. Fungal spores will drop from the leaves to the soil. Maintaining at least a foot between the lowest branch and the soil helps against the spores splashing back up onto the leaves when watering.

In the meantime, all you can do is remove the affected foliage - including the branches that shouldn't even have been there! - and look for as much air circulation as possible.

Aubergines

Posted: 22/07/2012 at 07:46

Size depends on the variety, Zoomer, but as a rule of thumb it's always best to harvest them a little early. A good test is to check the skin. If it's shiny, with a sort of sheen to it, it's pretty ready. It should also be still firm to the touch.

Basil with a problem

Posted: 20/07/2012 at 07:41

The brownish edges suggest overwatering or problems with the drainage. Basil doesn't like wet feet. I agree with Dove that the transparent patches could be scorching.

Pepper and Chilli problems

Posted: 19/07/2012 at 18:53

Sounds drastic. Any chance of a photo?

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