Latest posts by Italophile

Tomato seedlings

Posted: 12/04/2013 at 13:21
Bf206 wrote (see)
Any views on 'leggy' seedlings? Some of my seedlings I put in propagated seed modules. Some others, I just threw lots in some 3" inch pots and put on a windowsill. The former germinated much more quickly (within about four days) but look pretty leggy - tall and spindly. Whereas the seeds that were more of an afterthought appear shorter and sturdier. Typical.

The former germinated quicker because the conditions were more conducive. Beyond that, legginess is related to light or the lack thereof. Probably those on the window sill are/were getting better light.

Cucumber seedlings

Posted: 12/04/2013 at 12:59

Haven't tried them for cuke seeds, Newbie, but they give you plenty of seeds for your money and are usually reliable germinators. My only dud experience was a packet of Melon seeds that produced mainly crossed results. Very frustrating.

Coffee Grounds

Posted: 12/04/2013 at 12:56

Used coffee grounds tend to have minimal acidic content, the acid cleaned out in the brewing process. I saw some tests once that suggested used grounds registered as close to neutral.

Yellowing leaves

Posted: 12/04/2013 at 12:51

It's not necessarily too early providing they're kept warm with plenty of light.

CLER, is there any chance of posting a photo? In the meantime, what size are they? Do they have real leaves? Yellowing of leaves on a young plant can be a sign of overwatering but also of insufficent light. Or even both.

Fertilizing with BIOGROW (how often)

Posted: 11/04/2013 at 11:55

Newbie, those instructions would result in serious over-fertilising. The chillies particularly. Chillies are very like tomatoes, they thrive on controlled neglect.

Planted seeds have no use for fertiliser. You only run the risk of the seeds rotting if the mix gets too wet.


Tomato dropping blossoms - overfertilized?

Posted: 11/04/2013 at 11:50

Excellent idea, figrat. Take some growing tips - they have to be growing tips - with at least three or four inches of stem, poke it into a pot of damp (but not wet) mix and keep it warm - covered by a clear plastic bag is a good idea - with plenty of decent light. It cuts a month or more out of the usual development time. I do it every year for autumn crops.

Cucumber seedlings

Posted: 09/04/2013 at 07:53

It's also very very early for cukes. They're probably the veg that need the most warmth of all.

Tumbling Tom Red

Posted: 08/04/2013 at 07:40

Beth, don't bother nipping out the tops. Tumbling Tom are a determinate (bush) variety, meaning they will limit their branch growth themselves.

Tomato seedlings

Posted: 07/04/2013 at 10:09

Dove - congrats! You're going to be a mother. You could always put them under a couple of desk lamps or similar with the globes set an inch or so above the babies. That's what I do in the absence of the real thing.

Our weather has taken a small turn for the better, temps getting up into the low teens and some sun. The babies are all outside on the terrace. They're still a bit lanky and pale after the absence of decent sun and warmth but they should recover.

Red Dahlia - you can use the seeds as soon as they're dry.

Grafted cucumber plant

Posted: 04/04/2013 at 07:58

Eddie, cukes are the veg that probably need warmth most of all. They're usually the last things I plant out. I'd be wary of moist air, particularly still moist air. That's usually a recipe for fungal disease.

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