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Latest posts by Italophile

Swiss chard

Posted: 25/03/2013 at 10:20

Mine comes back after winter every year but bolts as soon as it warms up. I grow from seed and have replacement plants ready.

Tomato seedlings

Posted: 24/03/2013 at 16:32

They're going to need light as much as warmth, RD, as much light as they can get. Preferably sunlight. The longer you can keep the temps in the low to mid teens the better. But light is the absolute key.

Favorite tomatoes

Posted: 12/03/2013 at 18:25

Most beefsteaks are mid-late season varieties, Leggi. They need pretty decent growing seasons.

Favorite tomatoes

Posted: 12/03/2013 at 08:05

Leggi, good luck with the Pink Brandywines. Wonderful tomato. Just need heaps of growing time to maturity. Usually 80-90 days from planting out, and that's in optimum weather conditions.

what can you start now

Posted: 05/03/2013 at 08:07

Carrots should be sown directly where they're going to grow. They don't transplant. They also need soil temps (as opposed to air temps) around 15C to give the seeds a good chance to germinate.

Best tasting cherry tomatoes

Posted: 16/01/2013 at 12:01

I grow Camp Joy (aka Chadwick's Cherry) every season. An heirloom that produces masses of delicious cherry toms over a very long period.

Picking kale

Posted: 09/12/2012 at 08:39

No, it doesn't form a head. Best to harvest leaf by leaf, starting with the largest towards the bottom, leaving the younger ones to develop.

problem soil

Posted: 08/12/2012 at 07:41
annefiona wrote (see)

I have just created new beds for growing fruit and vegetables and the top soil that I hto ordered is extremely alkaline ,what is the best way of improving it.. My existing soil is neutral to alkaline

Presumably you've tested both the existing soil and the new stuff? What figures did you get?

storing carrots and parsnips

Posted: 05/12/2012 at 09:05

Like Bob, I leave parsnips in the ground. They're all the sweeter after a freeze. Ditto his thoughts on carrots.


Talkback: How to plant a fig tree

Posted: 26/11/2012 at 09:10
Pretzel wrote (see)
All his advice is great, as always, but the video concentrated more on him and the fruit on the tree than on the PLANTING HOLE which is what I'm interested in (how to PLANT a fig tree). More shots and info, please, on the HOLE - depth, width and so forth. From the very quick glimpses we got, it seemed very small - ? With the paving stones sticking up higher than the surrounding ground - ? And he said the hole was lined with paving stones; we could see four around the edges but was there one at the bottom as well (or just the rubble) ?

A hole about a metre by a metre a metre will do the job. As Dove says, spread the rubble on top of the soil in the bottom of the hole. It will help to contain the roots, the whole point of the exercise. Mine, planted about three years ago, is about 8' high and won't get much taller. Now it's a matter of encouraging lateral growth.

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