Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Tomatoes

Posted: 06/08/2012 at 13:04

There's evidence of fungal infection on a couple of the leaves but it's not bad. You've already removed the more affected foliage so you're winning at this stage.

Some toms develop blemishes, a physiological thing. But I still think some sort of critter has been at work. It's certainly not a caterpillar, they leave holes you can stick your finger into. The black edge amounts to a bit of infection. At worst you'll probably have to slice out that little bit of fruit after harvest. If you have enough fruit to spare, and you're curious, you could sacrifice one of the toms, cut it open and see exactly what's inside if anything.

But, on the bright side, you don't have Blossom End Rot, the curse of those sorts of varieties!

Tomato blight

Posted: 06/08/2012 at 12:51

Janiesings, you posted the same in the other tomato thread and I replied, here:

http://www.gardenersworld.com/forum/fruit-andamp-veg/tomatoes/3299.html

Curling tomato foliage

Posted: 06/08/2012 at 06:46

Yes, they can react to cool weather too. How often are you watering? I'd knock off the watering completely for a while to see what happens. The plants won't suffer if the weather is cool.

Tomatoes

Posted: 06/08/2012 at 06:43

No, definitely not BER. The photo isn't terribly clear but you've probably had insect visitors. Have a good look around the foliage - both sides - at night with a torch.

Talkback: Tomato blight

Posted: 05/08/2012 at 14:44
Green Monkey wrote (see)
I have just had my first attempt at growing anything as we moved to a house with a garden- 30 tomato plants 3 different variety's all healthy and at least 4 foot high then over the space of 4 days the all died- the leaves went brown ,the stems started going brown and the fruit all started to get brown patches then completely covered so today I dug them all up and binned them. MY question is can I grow anything else in the same spot ? I have various chilli and pepper plants next to where the toms where growing and I still have 60 to plant out from the green house- A very gutted Green Monkey

Sounds ugly, Green Monkey. Condolences. Is this what they looked like?

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/10615.jpg?width=259&height=194&mode=max

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/10616.jpg?width=192&height=262&mode=max

If so, it was Late Blight. It's about the only disease I can think of that will demolish a plant within four days. It's exactly the same disease as Potato Blight.

I'll wait for confirmation - or otherwise - before suggesting action.

Talkback: Tomato blight

Posted: 05/08/2012 at 14:27
diggingdoris wrote (see)

I lost all my outdoor plants to blight last year, and someone told me I can;t grow toms in that patch for 7 years. Someone else said 5 years and another 3 years! Anyone know which advice I should follow? The link to the rhs site didn;t say either.

If it was a bona fide Blight - Early Blight, say - you can grow toms in the same spot again the next season. There will likely be fungal spores on the soil surface. Turn the soil over and bury them. I've done it many times. Fungal spores can't do any damage underground. When a new lot arrive next season - and they will, because they're everywhere, you can't avoid them - they will be airborne. They travel on any breeze.

If, on the other hand, you had one of the several tomato virus diseases, you wouldn't want to plant in the same spot again. The viral pathogens can live on in soil.

So if you're sure it was fungal, turn the soil over very well and happily plant away next season.

Talkback: Tomato blight

Posted: 05/08/2012 at 14:19
Alina W wrote (see)
Italophile wrote (see)

Why doesn't this site's link function work?

Cut and paste the links into your browser if you're interested.

To make the links work:

Paste the Link into your message

Highlight it

A link sign will light up above where you are typing immediately to the right of the smiley. Click on it

A box will appear, inviting you to paste your link into it - do so, and click "insert"

The link now works in your message - but don't ask me why it's so complicated!

Thanks for that, Alina. What a weirdly complicated method.

Curling tomato foliage

Posted: 05/08/2012 at 14:17

Just to expand a little on the above. Leaves curling downwards at the edges is most often a sign of some sort of contamination by herbicide. Leaves curling upwards is much more common and there can be a number of causes.

Excessive heat can cause it. My toms in the ground are covered with curled leaves because we're into about our third week of high-30sC. It's just the plants' stressed reaction to the heat.

Excessive watering can cause it, particularly with container plants. Pale foliage is another symptom.

Pests - aphids, white fly, etc - can cause it.

Disease can also be a cause. Is there any evidence of disease - specks, spots, whatever - on the foliage? And is the affected foliage old foliage? New? Or are the symptoms all over the plant?

 

Tomatoes

Posted: 05/08/2012 at 11:04

Are they "black holes" or sunken black patches at the blossom end? On the bottom of the tomato? If so, it's probably Blossom End Rot. Here's what it typically looks like:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/10609.jpg?width=194&height=259&mode=max

The plum-type varieties like Roma are extremely susceptible to it. No one knows why. I've had Roma plants plagued by BER growing right alongside beefsteak varieties - identical soil, identical watering, etc - that haven't shown the slightest sign of BER.

If that's not what you've got, can you post a photo?

Whether you've got a fungal or bacterial problem, spraying now isn't going to help the already-infected foliage. If you have unaffected foliage, spraying will help against infection. That Bayer product seems to be copper-based, one of the traditional anti-fungal ingredients. Spraying doesn't kill the spores. Effectively you're coating the leaves to put a barrier between the spores and the leaf surface, stopping the spores getting a grip. So you have to spray every leaf and on both sides. Spray about once a week, re-spraying if it rains.

As I said, Romas can present their own challenges, but I wouldn't give up on the plants by any means. They sound like they're in pretty good shape despite the problems and worth fighting for.

Curling tomato foliage

Posted: 05/08/2012 at 09:02

Sounds like a silly question but are the leaves curling up at the edges or down at the edges? The difference usually leads to different diagnoses.

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