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Latest posts by Italophile

Fig trees

Posted: 01/08/2012 at 06:55

Any chance of a photo? Here's our tree. It's roughly the same age as yours, I grew it from a cutting taken in spring 2008:

That's a 40cm container and it's been in it for two years. How big is the container you potted up into this year? Figs do their absolute best in terms of fruit with cramped roots.

Last year I did a major root prune (as I described a bit earlier in the thread). Root pruning seriously stimulates the tree. It could be what your one needs next spring.

Fig trees

Posted: 31/07/2012 at 21:42

Figs in containers need some sort of protection in cold winters. The danger is that the roots can freeze in the container. Did it have any protection?

How is it looking otherwise?

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 31/07/2012 at 17:37

Cats shouldn't be able to knock those buckets over. And birds won't be a problem. We get a zillion pigeons, black birds, birds of all types here, and I've never known them to bother a tomato. I'd leave them at the bottom of the garden in the maximum possible sun. That's what they need.

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 31/07/2012 at 11:49

Fair 'nuff. Just give them as much sun as possible. Move them around the garden to catch the sun if need be.


Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 31/07/2012 at 08:33

The two in the last photo (above) look very leggy. For their height, the stems should be better developed. They've struggled for light at some stage or might even still be struggling.

Where is the plant you posted the photos of on the previous page? Still in the small container?


Fig trees

Posted: 31/07/2012 at 08:22

Do you know the variety? There are non-fruiting varieties. It can sometimes take two or three years for a tree to mature to a fruiting stage but your three or four years should have been adequate. Assuming plenty of sun and warmth in summer, has it been fertilised? Nitrogen-heavy fertiliser can work against fruit production.


Posted: 30/07/2012 at 13:17

Sweet corn needs full sun but also decent warmth. The decent warmth might be lacking.

Rhubarb Seeds

Posted: 30/07/2012 at 13:13

Becks, sorry, but I honestly wouldn't bother with rhubarb seed. Rhubarb is one of those plants that rarely grows true to type from seed - in other words, the offspring (grown from seed) doesn't reproduce all the parent's characteristics. What's more, it takes a couple of years to get to harvest stage.

If you fancy rhubarb, look around for rhubarb crowns at garden centres or nurseries. They're produced from the division of existing plants. Much much more reliable. Spring, though, is the best time to plant crowns.

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 30/07/2012 at 12:52

How many plants do you actually have?

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 30/07/2012 at 12:03

Becks, I'm back from a couple of days down in Umbria, I could only access this forum on the stupid little iPod.

I don't know either variety but hunting around the internet seems to indicate they both have large-ish, regular leaves. So leaf size isn't going to help. You'll know the difference as soon as the flowers start to develop, though.

Alicante looks like its clusters are in clumps of up to half a dozen flowers, but pretty much bunched together. Cerise Cherry, on the other hand, looks like its flowers develop in long strings of ten or twelve or more. Quite a traditional cherry tomato flower pattern. So very different cluster patterns that you will tell apart immediately.

I was down in Umbria helping a friend deal with her tomatoes. I helped her set up the garden and I sow seeds for her, giving her the seedlings. I took some photos of flower clusters for you. Now these won't resemble yours in terms of the pattern in which they develop because hers are mainly beefsteak and medium-sized oblate varieties, but at least they will give you an idea:

EDIT. Having had another look at Alicante and Cerise Cherry on the internet, I would bet a very small amount of money that the CC's leaves are a bit larger than Alicante's.


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