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Latest posts by Italophile

Tomato Ripening

Posted: 25/09/2012 at 16:29

figrat, removing the foliage won't aid or hasten the maturing process. The plant itself plays no real part in ripening. That's why toms will ripen off the plant. The only benefit would be if the foliage is seriously diseased, stopping any disease getting to the fruit. I think that's why Chris did it.

As to the propagator, cooking the tom would be the risk. A sunny window sill inside would do the job if it's too cold outside. You'd just have to keep an eye on sunscald (sunburn) if the sunlight is penetrating.


Tomato Ripening

Posted: 25/09/2012 at 16:04
figrat wrote (see)

Yay! Just cut first ripened Pink Brandywine, weighed in a touch under 10 oz.

Congrats! They can grow bigger than that too.

Tomato Ripening

Posted: 25/09/2012 at 16:01

Any fruit that produces ethylene gas is claimed to hasten the ripening of a tomato. As I've said, I've found no evidence that it does. Toms produce their own. Most fruits do. It's the hormone that causes ripening.

Temperature controls ripening. A tom inside on a bench in a room at 18C will ripen quicker than a tom outside on a plant at 13C.

If you're at the stage where fruit is starting to ripen on a plant, the foliage becomes less important. By maturity time, the actual plant's job is done.

Corn on the cob

Posted: 24/09/2012 at 07:27

You're right, Zoomer, corn won't ripen off the plant.

Pepper and Chilli problems

Posted: 24/09/2012 at 07:24

Peppers and chillies don't need a lot of feeding anyway. They're like tomatoes, much more likely to produce well if left to struggle a little. But to answer the question, once fruit is starting to ripen it's not drawing much from the plant and fertiliser is pretty much wasted.

When to plant out rhubarb?

Posted: 23/09/2012 at 17:57

Unless it gets blindingly hot, I'd go for the full sun. It needs plenty of sun.

Seed companies

Posted: 23/09/2012 at 09:42

I stick with T&M for seeds I can't source here in Italy. Great range, prompt delivery, never any germination problems.

Tomato rot?

Posted: 21/09/2012 at 15:30

If it's a blight - let's call it fungal - issue, it has no devastating impact on the soil. If Late Blight, the spores don't live on in soil. If Early Blight, much more common, spores can have fallen to the soil. Turn the soil over and bury them. Buried, they're harmless. Ditto the other fungal diseases. A scrub of the greenhouse with a 1:10 bleach solution will deal with any lingering nasties.

Given reasonable precautions, reinfection from spores from the previous season is pretty rare. Most infections are new ones. Fresh spores arrive every season. They travel on the breeze. There's really no avoiding them.

Tomato rot?

Posted: 21/09/2012 at 14:58
Jammy2 wrote (see)

I agree it does look a bit like the photo of late blight. Maybe I've just been lucky - I've removed the fruit as soon as I noticed a problem.

I have used liquid tomato fertiliser - that could be the issue and would explain why its only the lower ones where I watered

Late Blight usually manifests on leaves and branches/stems before it spreads to the fruit. If it's the fruit alone that's damaged, I suspect something else has impacted.

Tomato rot?

Posted: 21/09/2012 at 14:54

Gary, both Early and Late Blight affect spuds and toms so, if the spores are around, they are going to spread.

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