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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

tomato rot

Posted: 15/09/2012 at 13:10
jean linsley wrote (see)

I am guessing I had tomato rot this year in green house...one third up all of them looked rotten but they continued to grow..very very poor yield though...

what causes this ..I know we had hot/wet summer but thought it would not effect ones in gr/hse..

It sounds like fungal problems, jean. In fact, toms in greenhouses are more prone than toms grown outside. The enclosed environment can be an incubator for disease.

Talkback: How to ripen tomatoes on the vine

Posted: 15/09/2012 at 13:07

Yup. Anything above low-20sC is optimum. The lower the temp, the longer they take.

Talkback: Grow carrots in a container

Posted: 15/09/2012 at 08:16
John from north London. wrote (see)

I have grown from seed Radish - Carrots - Beetroot - and Spring Onions in my small

garden. The foliage grew strongly but with only a thin 'straddle' of root to show for my effort from each of the above.

My first attempt, never tried 'em before, what on earth did I do wrong?

Any 'help' most appreciated.

John, how much direct sun did they get? They all need as much as possible. Carrots, in particular, also need very friable soil without lumps, stones or any other obstacles.

Kiwi problem

Posted: 15/09/2012 at 07:50

I had a Kiwi Jenny back in Sydney. It doesn't need a pollinator so your lack of fruit is down to other things. The Sydney climate was perfect - endless warmth. Apart from needing plenty of warmth, they also need to be kept in check, I found. Left to grow with wild abandon they can forget about fruiting.

Citrus orange

Posted: 14/09/2012 at 21:19

Keep it warm with plenty of light.

Tomato probs

Posted: 14/09/2012 at 16:14

Ah, now I get the picture.

The chimney-pot plants have a big advantage over those in containers. By the time they get down into the soil they've developed very good root structure. Plants in containers will always have hindered root structure. But the blight difference is a matter of luck. All plants are susceptible, no matter how they're planted.

Taking off the tops, flowers, small fruit, etc, doesn't hasten the ripening process. Ripening is purely down to temperature. Optimum ripening temperatures are anything above low-20sC. The lower you go, the longer it takes. And, as soon as the toms start to turn from their very darkest green, the plant pretty much shuts off moisture to the fruit anyway.

Tomato probs

Posted: 14/09/2012 at 14:40
Colin7 wrote (see)

Exactly like that + mouldy fruit. Sorry, new camera and haven't worked out how to load pics onto laptop

Mouldy fruit a bit like this?

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/11642.jpg?width=259&height=194&mode=max

Late Blight is one of the ugliest, most virulent fungal diseases. It can demolish an entire tomato plant inside a week.

Sparkle - I can't picture what you're describing. The plants are planted into the chimney pots but grow down into the soil underneath?

Vine problems

Posted: 14/09/2012 at 12:24

Dry and unrelentingly hot here. The worst season I've ever had for everything in the vegie line. Even the female pumpkin flowers were cooking and withering before they had a chance to open. Now that it's cooler, I'm getting pumpkins setting every day. Except yesterday and today has seen winds of 40+kph and my French beans - that I'd just started to harvest - are being destroyed. You can't win!

Vine problems

Posted: 14/09/2012 at 11:31

I'm in Italy too. If your summer was anything like ours, everything basically cooked. I've got three grapes, two in large pots. I had to pour tons of water on them. The yield is nothing like it has been in the past.

Problem bamboo

Posted: 14/09/2012 at 08:35

I foresee it becoming the Twitter of the 21st century - invasive, indestructible and insufferable.

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