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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Tomatoe plants with no flowers !

Posted: 16/07/2012 at 07:46

Producing flowers - hence fruit - is the tomato plant seeking to reproduce itself, to ensure another generation, Lilly. It's much more likely to want to do this if it fears for its future, and it won't fear for its future if it's well-fed and well-watered. It will just lollop along enjoying the comforts. In simple terms it's a matter of creating an environment that causes the plant to think its future is threatened. Tough love, controlled neglect, call it what you like. It won't hurt the plant. Toms are tough, resilient things.

More specifically, over-feeding, particularly with a food high in nitrogen, is one of the major causes of a lack of flowers. Don't feed at all till the first fruit sets. Then, for containters, you don't need to feed more than once a month. Toms aren't "hungry" plants, they don't need to be stuffed full of nutrients. In fact it's bad for them. Plants in the ground - given decent soil to start with - don't need more than three feeds in the entire season.

For containers, let the mix dry out between waterings. Not just now, but always. Keep the plant out of its comfort zone and it will reward you.

 

Tomatoe plants with no flowers !

Posted: 15/07/2012 at 15:20

About all you can do is try to force them to fruit. Cut back on the water and, more importantly, cut out fertilising altogether.

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 14/07/2012 at 18:34

The words gardener and happy are not usually found adjacent to each other, no.

You're in Dorset? We've got friends in Dorset. They just got home from a visit here to find the strawbs rotting amongst other things. I think that climate would drive me insane. All in all, I'll take the baking heat, even if means watering twice a day. Not the toms, though.

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 14/07/2012 at 18:14

No problems, Jo. I've got my own woes here in Tuscany - baking heat, flowers cooking in the heat, not a lot of fruit forming. Sigh.

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 14/07/2012 at 16:50

Yes, it's fungal. The spots don't have a distinctive "halo" so that rules out Early Blight. The first of the two photos I posted above shows Septoria Leaf Spot. Your spots look too big. The water-soaked look around the spots and the yellowing on the other side of the leaf suggests good old Leaf Mould to me.

Here's what it typically looks like, top of leaf and bottom:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/9984.jpg?width=350

 

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/9985.jpg?width=350

Look familiar? There was a thread largely about it only the other day. It's about the most common fungal problem with greenhouse toms, in fact it's rarely if ever seen outdoors. Unfortunately, like all fungal problems, there's no treatment once it's established. All you can do is remove and destroy affected foliage. And wash your hands before touching healthy foliage.

Unless you spray preventively, your only defence against these problems in a greenhouse is as much ventilation as possible - a friend of mine used an electric fan on low speed to aid the air circulation - and keeping the foliage as dry as possible. But, as I say, it's very very very common.

One of the unfortunate ironies is that there's a school of thought that the PL varieties are less susceptible to fungal problems. Never believed it, myself.

The ultimate danger, obviously, is defoliating the plant. I'd even take the plant out of the greenhouse for a while if that's at all possible.

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 14/07/2012 at 12:30

Is this what the brown spots on the other side look like?

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/9964.jpg?width=350

 Or this?

http://s3.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/9967.jpg?width=640&height=350&mode=max

 

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 14/07/2012 at 10:34

The plants need the leaves for photosynthesis. Take off too much foliage and you run the risk of the plant basically shutting down.

The thing with the fungal and bacterial diseases is that the symptoms develop on the leaf. They don't just begin as a spot and remain so. The spots get darker, crustier, develop tiny concentric rings within the brown spots in the case of Early Blight (as well as a yellow "halo" around the spot), and the wee pimply pinpricks I mentioned in the case of Septoria Leaf Spot. The spots/patches spread across the leaf, there is yellowing and withering, the signs are umnistakeable with all the diseases.

Trouble is, I'm not sure that you have a disease problem. Is there absolutely no way of posting an image?

Yes, the Pink Brandywine is about the most fickle of toms. Neurotic probably best describes it. It won't set fruit in any sort of high-ish temperatures or humidity. When I used to live in Sydney I had to grow it as an autumn crop because it couldn't cope with the hot, humid Sydney summers. Glorious flavour, though.

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 14/07/2012 at 07:12

I wondered about something like scorching but the symptoms are all over the plant, top to bottom. Scorching is usually confined to affected leaves.

Any of the fungal (or indeed bacterial) problems develop their symptoms pretty quickly. That's why I suggest leaving a leaf or two in place to see what transpires. It would be a pity to defoliate for, ultimately, no good reason.

 

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 22:23

Brandywine Pink? It is a Potato Leaf? With the almost smooth, slightly scalloped edges? As distinct from the traditional saw-tooth edge of a tomato leaf? Glorious tomato. Possibly the best I've ever tasted. Only Marianna's Peace comes close, I think.

It's so hard to know without actually seeing anything. Did you notice whether the problem developed from top to bottom or vice versa? The brown underneath hints that it might have developed on the underside. Septoria Leaf Spot does that and it, along with Early Blight, are the most common fungal problems in the home garden. They both tend to start from the bottom of the plant - the older leaves - up. EB is more apparent on the top of the leaf and pretty quickly develops a "halo" around the spot.

You might not want to, but I'd be inclined to leave one leaf in situ and watch it. If it's SLP, you'll see little pin-head type mini-bumps develop inside the brown patch. If it happens to be SLP it won't terminally damage the plant if you contain it. None of the fungal problems do massive instant damage - except Late Blight, which will kill a plant in weeks - and the onset of cold weather usually terminates things before the fungal problem does.

Sorry I can't be more specific. Without an image, it's sort of guess work.

I overlooked your earlier query about doors and windows. Air circulation is an absolute priority in greenhouses. A closed environment can be an incubator for all sorts of nasties.

Pepper and Chilli problems

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 16:59

Well, the pale green/yellow can mean nitrogen deficiency but I'm sure you're feeding them and the foliage is lush anyway. Let the mix dry out completely before watering again and see what happens.

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