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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 22:23

Brandywine Pink? It is a Potato Leaf? With the almost smooth, slightly scalloped edges? As distinct from the traditional saw-tooth edge of a tomato leaf? Glorious tomato. Possibly the best I've ever tasted. Only Marianna's Peace comes close, I think.

It's so hard to know without actually seeing anything. Did you notice whether the problem developed from top to bottom or vice versa? The brown underneath hints that it might have developed on the underside. Septoria Leaf Spot does that and it, along with Early Blight, are the most common fungal problems in the home garden. They both tend to start from the bottom of the plant - the older leaves - up. EB is more apparent on the top of the leaf and pretty quickly develops a "halo" around the spot.

You might not want to, but I'd be inclined to leave one leaf in situ and watch it. If it's SLP, you'll see little pin-head type mini-bumps develop inside the brown patch. If it happens to be SLP it won't terminally damage the plant if you contain it. None of the fungal problems do massive instant damage - except Late Blight, which will kill a plant in weeks - and the onset of cold weather usually terminates things before the fungal problem does.

Sorry I can't be more specific. Without an image, it's sort of guess work.

I overlooked your earlier query about doors and windows. Air circulation is an absolute priority in greenhouses. A closed environment can be an incubator for all sorts of nasties.

Pepper and Chilli problems

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 16:59

Well, the pale green/yellow can mean nitrogen deficiency but I'm sure you're feeding them and the foliage is lush anyway. Let the mix dry out completely before watering again and see what happens.

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 15:54

Yes, that's necrosis, dead tissue. It can be nothing to worry about in terms of disease. Fertiliser burn can cause it, and sunburn (though probably not in your case!)

Are the spots on the top or underside of the leaves? And where are the leaves on the plant? And, last question, is there any sign of a darker spot forming in the middle of the current spot?

 

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 14:50

Do the spots look like this?

http://s3.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/9932.jpg?width=240&height=320&mode=max

 

yellow spots on tomato leaves

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 13:16

joanna, can you post a photo? It's always easier if we can see the probem. Doesn't guarantee a diagnosis, but it helps. Are the spots actually yellow? Or a pale brown/fawn, as in necrotic (dead) leaf tissue?

And when you say the light levels are low, how much sunlight are the plants getting?

Pepper and Chilli problems

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 13:09

How often are you watering?

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 13/07/2012 at 08:50

Lack of sunlight will certainly hinder their development. To perform at their absolute best, tomato plants need 6 to 8 hours a day of sunlight. They will perform - produce - with less but the performance drops as the hours do.

Passion fruit?

Posted: 12/07/2012 at 10:55

Exactly the question I asked one of the locals here when I was thinking of planting one. They won't hurt you, she said, but they're not very nice. I planted a vine. In the ground. And regretted it. It took over, not only spreading like the plague, but also popping up out of the ground up to 20 yards away. I thought I'd dug all of it out last year. This year it's raring its head again.

Never again in the ground. In a container, perhaps, because the flowers are lovely.

Tomato leaf problems - help

Posted: 11/07/2012 at 12:42

The bottom line with feeding toms is that that they're not "hungry" plants. You'll see it said around the internet that they are but it's more of the misinformation that floats around the ether.

Container plants need more food than plants in the ground for an obvious reason. Every time you water a container plant you leach out some of the nutrients. They dribble out the drainage hole in the bottom of the container with the excess water. They need to be replenished.

The same doesn't apply to plants growing outdoors in limitless soil. Those nutrients stay in the soil - not forever, obviously, but they're present for the roots to access until they're exhausted and that can take months. Bearing in mind, also, that decent soil has a whole nutrient supply of its own to offer the plant.

So given that toms aren't "hungry" in the first place, you could safely feed container plants maybe once a month. Certainly not once a week. The roots would barely get a rest from the nutrients before more arrive. The plant doesn't need that, and, ultimately, it does more harm than good. There's an old tomato adage that more toms are killed by over-feeding than by neglect.

Most serious growers only feed their outdoor toms three times in a season. First, a week or so after planting; second, when the first fruit starts to set; third, late in the season to replenish the soil for the plants that are, by then, starting to tire. This presupposes decent soil in the first place and yours is more than decent.

Only you can determine, by observation, the container plants' water needs. Were the plants showing any signs of distress? Had the mix dried out completely? Anyway, four days sounds reasonable and far preferable to every day. A "good soak" means exactly that. Saturating a dry - not still damp - mix until water trickles out the bottom of the container.

One of the advantages of growing toms outdoors in the garden is that you can drive the roots down deep into the soil - both away from the warmth/heat of the surface, and deep enough to access the soil's inherent goodness. Infrequent but very deep watering is the way to go outside. I'm now watering mine - about 10 hours a day of baking Tuscan sun peaking in the high-30sC - very very deeply every three days.

You'd have to have the crook leaves tested to determine exactly what happened. Plants weakened in any way - by a deficiency, by over-feeding or over-watering - are more vulnerable to disease than plants healthy in themselves. As in humans, lowered resistance is an invitation to disease.

My guess is that the over-feeding and over-watering, combined with a possible deficiency, left the plant vulnerable to a disease that's very very common in greenhouses. You're heading in the right direction in terms of working against it happening again.

 

 

Chillies problem

Posted: 11/07/2012 at 07:38

Cut back on the watering. Like tomatoes, chillies react against too much water. Curling of the top leaves is a classic symptom. Let the mix in the container dry out between waterings.

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