Italophile


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Help with chilli plant growing

Posted: 03/06/2012 at 08:27

solution, to answer your questions:

1. Water only when the plant needs it. Let the mix dry out between waterings. Neither toms nor chillies - not many other things - benefit from overwatering. In addition, the fruit's heat is basically dictated by its genes, though cultural factors can have an impact. But a mild variety won't produce a hot chilli. You'd need to start with a hot variety.

2. There's no real evidence that plucking smaller leaves achieves anything.

3. Like toms, chillies need as much warmth and sunlight as they can get. Get the plant outside if you can, even inside a small greenhouse with some ventilation.

4. Like toms, chillies benefit from a fertiliser that's low in N (nitrogen), higher in P (phosphorous), and even higher in K (potassium). Too much nitrogen and you'll get foliage instead of fruit. Phosphorous is good for the plant's overall health, root structure, and flower development. Potassium aids the development of fruit.

The product you've bought has an NPK of 3:2:6. It's not too bad in the sense that the potassium percentage is double the nitrogen. A specialty tomato fertiliser with an NPK along the lines of 39 would be better.

But, anyway, you can scale down the manufacturer's recommended dosage. They cite 4.5l or about a gallon. Divide by, say, 4 to give you a manageable amount, a litre, dividing the amount of product by the same amount.

You probably won't use a litre when you fertilise. A litre might last two feeds.

As with overwatering, you need to be careful about overfertilising. Chillies, like toms, won't do their best if overfertilised. When they produce fruit, they're seeking to reproduce themselves, and they're much more likely to do so if they think they need to - in other words, if they're feeling vulnerable. Tough love works best in terms of both watering and fertilising. I wouldn't fertilise more than once every couple of weeks.

 

Chilli problem

Posted: 02/06/2012 at 12:40

Unpollinated flowers will drop off but usually dry and shrivel a bit first, I find. Are they drying at all? Or just dropping off?

 

Can unsterilized compost ever be used for tomatoes?

Posted: 01/06/2012 at 16:45

Home compost is fine once the plants are established. I use tons of it. Sowing seeds in home compost is the problematic one.

Can unsterilized compost ever be used for tomatoes?

Posted: 01/06/2012 at 16:19

Apart from the various possible nasties in home compost, you'd have no idea what the pH might be.

tomatoes

Posted: 01/06/2012 at 09:02

It's always fun getting "volunteers", finding out what they are. If they're hybrids, you get some interesting variations on the parent variety in the first generation.

tomatoes

Posted: 01/06/2012 at 07:34

Yes, that's about the average given the right sowing conditions. Some will germinate in a couple of days. Older seeds can take up to a month.

sweet peppers

Posted: 01/06/2012 at 06:53

Patience will get you everywhere.

 

help with tomatoes please.

Posted: 31/05/2012 at 12:38

Depends if they're determinate (the bush type, the ones that don't grow beyond the fruit) or indeterminate (the ones that keep growing while fruiting). You don't need to pinch out the determinate varieties.

Tomatoes And Herbs

Posted: 31/05/2012 at 07:13

As long as the pH is on the slightly acid side the toms will be fine.

help with tomatoes please.

Posted: 31/05/2012 at 07:12

Another reason to pinch out sideshoots is to free up some room for air to circulate. A mass of foliage and no air circulation are ideal conditions for fungal problems.

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