Latest posts by Italophile

Tomato Ripening

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 15:19

Bob, toms don't need direct sunshine to ripen. It's all about temperature. Low-20s and above is optimum. The lower you go, the longer it takes.


Posted: 03/09/2012 at 12:31

Spring and autumn are the usual planting times. I've had success with both. It depends how well developed your cuttings are.

potato blight

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 08:18

Answered you in the other forum.


Posted: 03/09/2012 at 08:00

If you've had Late Blight, the spores can fall from the plant to the soil but the spores don't live on in the soil once you've removed and destroyed any affected plants (and potatoes). Leaving infected plants or potatoes lying around can result in reinfection.

If Late Blight strikes again next season it will be a new infection. The spores arrive through the air, travelling on the breeze. If you want to be doubly tripley sure, you can remove and replace the top couple of inches of soil.


Posted: 02/09/2012 at 11:12

That's a shame. Not even room for a couple of pots?


Posted: 02/09/2012 at 10:30

Crowns are planted in the ground between a foot and 18" apart, about the same between rows. I've seen asparagus grown in containers but you need pretty decent sized pots to accommodate the roots. I'd reckon one crown per 2'x2' (width x depth) pot would probably work. Make sure the pots have plenty of drainage holes. You'd need a top quality potting mix with plenty of extra organic material mixed in. The key to asparagus is caring for the roots.

Talkback: Tomato blight

Posted: 02/09/2012 at 07:24

Some varieties, particularly cherries, are prone to splitting. They have very thin skins. Sungold F1 is a famous example. Beyond that, splitting is usually related to excess moisture. It will often happen after sudden heavy rain. In simple terms, the sudden excess of moisture causes a growth spurt in the tomato but its skin is unprepared for it. Something has to give, and it's the skin. It's like putting on a tight pair of jeans, breathing out, and popping the top button. I speak from experience.

Simple overwatering can also cause it.

best flavoured tomatoes

Posted: 01/09/2012 at 20:28

Did you bag the flowers before they opened, Maud? Or do you not have other varieties nearby?

I think I might have a shower too. On my wife's orders.


Tomato Problems

Posted: 01/09/2012 at 16:01

Damp cool conditions are utterly ideal for any sort of fungal problems. There have been a lot of reports of same.

Greenhouse after tomato blight

Posted: 01/09/2012 at 11:49

Nytiri, toms are subject to a variety of diseases. They can broadly be classified as fungal, bacterial and viral.

The problem is that "blight" has become a generic term for fungal disease. There are only two actual Blights - Early Blight, and Late Blight. Other fungal diseases - Septoria Leaf Spot, etc - have similar but identifiably different symptoms, but the end result is largely the same. The big difference between the Blights - and SLS, etc - is that Late Blight can and will wipe out an entire plant within a week. Early Blight, SLS, etc, will eventually spread across the plant - unless you take preventive measures like removing affected foliage as soon as it appears - but take a long time to destroy the plant. In fact, the plant usually runs out of steam first or cold weather sets in.

All fungal spores - the nasties that carry the pathogen - are airborne. They're invisible, they travel on the breeze, and they're everywhere.

I don't know what your particular symptoms are but it's very unusual for some toms in a greenhouse to be affected by fungal problems and others not. Greenhouse toms are particularly prone to fungal problems because of the enclosed environment and lack of air circulation you get outdoors. No tomato variety is immune to fungal problems.

Do you have any photos of your symptoms?

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