Latest posts by Italophile

Potato blight fungicide

Posted: 10/08/2015 at 06:33

There are any number of chemical fungicides. The best one I ever used - on tomatoes, against diseases like Early Blight, so it would work on spuds too - is a Chlorothalonil-based product called Daconil (although there are other brand names). It's a chemical but not toxic to fossicking insects. Some organic growers in the USA even look kindly on it.

It's available in the USA in volumes suitable for the home garden. A couple of years before I left Australia it was only available there in industrial quantities. A group of us tomato-growing friends chipped in to buy a quantity and we divided it up between us. Worked brilliantly. It's not available here in Italy in volumes for the home garden and, last time I checked, ditto the UK.

Potato blight fungicide

Posted: 09/08/2015 at 17:56

Google says it's for deficiencies in trace elements so it won't do the job. Copper sulphate, the real thing, is a mixture of copper and sulphur. It can (or used to be able to) be sprayed alone. Just about every backyard tomato plant in Italy used to be bright blue, coated in copper sulphate. Many still are!

Potato blight fungicide

Posted: 09/08/2015 at 17:39

Copper sulphate is the copper ingredient in Bordeaux Mixture. That's the major reason for its withdrawal. What exactly is the copper ingredient in this product?

Tomato problems

Posted: 09/08/2015 at 17:36

Potato blight is either Early or Late Blight. Symptoms of both should show up on the plant well before they appear on the fruit. Mammy says the plants look healthy. I'm very interested to see the photos.


Posted: 09/08/2015 at 10:41

Ox Heart, nannie. They should be nice.


Posted: 09/08/2015 at 09:24

Sounds like the plants were mislabelled. Very common. Are the rogue toms all essentially the same? If not, could be crossed seeds involved.


Posted: 09/08/2015 at 09:20

I take off all the flower heads after they finish blooming. Only the flower heads. Wait till spring, when new growth starts, to prune more heavily. (As above, not cutting into the old wood) Keeps the plant compact, limits the build up of old woody stems. 

Tomato problems

Posted: 09/08/2015 at 09:13

Can you post a photo? BER affects the bottom (blossom) end of the tom and doesn't spread, per se.


Potato blight fungicide

Posted: 09/08/2015 at 09:12

Is Mancozeb still allowed?


Posted: 08/08/2015 at 07:02

Aubergines are self-pollinating, same as the toms. It does sound like a pollination problem even if the toms aren't suffering the same problem. Try giving the newer aubergine flowers a flick with your fingers to kick start the process.

Aubergines also like a bit of humidity. A problem when you're growing them in a greenhouse with toms, for which humidity is a recipe for fungal problems.

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