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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

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Flooded

Posted: 20/04/2012 at 10:48

They're not large pots, Lucy, the holes should be fine. I've got much bigger pots with similar drainage. No problems at all.

Flooded

Posted: 20/04/2012 at 09:37

I'm too cheap, Alina. Plus our little hill town is built of slate and stone so there are tons of the stuff lying around the place.

Flooded

Posted: 20/04/2012 at 09:27

Never seen a 5p coin but Google tells me it's about 3/4". Is that right? Three of those should do the job depending on the size of the pot. To aid pot drainage, I slip a couple of pieces of slate or tile under the edges of the pots to keep them clear of the ground. The only challenge is balancing them!

Chillies

Posted: 20/04/2012 at 08:20

Yes, they're like tom seedlings, they should be allowed to dry out between waterings. If they're healthy at this point, you can't be doing too much wrong. What are the seedlings in? Modules? Pots? If you can't poke a finger in and down to test the mix, work off the surface appearance. Unless the mix is unusually deep, a properly dry surface means dry. It's best always to err on the side of under-watering. A day or so of dry mix - unless it's scorching hot - won't hurt them. In fact, it will help. Chillies, like toms, prosper if treated mean.

Flooded

Posted: 20/04/2012 at 08:01

You're a faster typist than me, figrat!

Flooded

Posted: 20/04/2012 at 08:01

You can drill drainage holes, Lucy, if you want to go to the trouble. Put the pots on their side (using something to retain the soil as Gary suggests) and decide where you want the holes. Stick short lengths of masking tape (about an inch wide) on the spots. The tape will help guard against chipping or cracking. Mark the spots on the tape where you're going to drill.

You'll need two, possibly three masonry bits, depending how big you want the holes to be. Start with a small bit just to create the hole without stressing the pot. Then change to a larger bit to enlarge the hole. And so on until you've got the hole size you want.

How cold is too cold for seedlings?

Posted: 19/04/2012 at 13:39
madoldbat wrote (see)

<blockquote>Is there a minimum night temperature I should be aware of, say, 5 degrees or so - I can't take them out and bring them in again every day, there are just too many.

All replies gratefully received,

MOB</blockquote>

Mob, I have 50+ seedlings that I'm carting outside and inside at the moment. I use the low-sided crates that greengrocers receive their produce in. Each crates fits a dozen or more seedlings depending on pot size. The bigger pots fit three or four to a crate.

planting broad beans

Posted: 19/04/2012 at 07:50

I'd wait and direct sow, but then I get a tad paranoid about starting seeds and then leaving them for a week if they're to be unattended.

sheep manure

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 15:27

Sheep manure's usually stronger than cow or horse. Bear that it in mind and it's perfectly good. If the sheep has grazed, there can be more weed seeds, I've found.

I was reading something somewhere - or maybe I even heard it on the radio - to the effect that you don't need crocks with modern potting mixes. I use them anyway. I'd prefer them to fleece only because I think they would drain better.

What's the weather like in your area?

Posted: 18/04/2012 at 14:11

We're heading for another three or four days of rain - well, showers - here in Central Italy. Good thing, too. Last year was one of the driest on record. The temps hit the low-20s in mid-March and it stayed very warm till late October into November. This year started the same - mid-20s in mid-March - and the locals were starting to panic, but it suddenly cooled off and started to rain and has for the last three weeks. I'm worried that some of the seeds I've planted out might rot in the ground, but better the rain. I can always sow more.

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