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Latest posts by Italophile


Posted: 06/09/2013 at 17:04

Yes, it's the little Tree symbol in the options above the message box.


Posted: 06/09/2013 at 16:03

jo - I was wondering how you get on! Glad the toms worked for you. The Soldaki's a lovely tom, for sure.

Teresa - you're right, cukes and squash don't cross-pollinate. The interloper might only look like a squash. Those "celebrity-named" varieties are always hybrids. It could be just a gene pool glitch. Any chance of a photo?

Tomato pest

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 14:37

Caterpillars love tomatoes, Clarky, red or green. Unless you want to spray against them you just have to hunt them down, pick them off, and destroy them.


Posted: 06/09/2013 at 14:34

The seed you planted might have been "crossed", Teresa. Saved from a cross-pollinated fruit. I had a few of those last year with melon seeds.

No fruit showing on Butternut Squash in polytunnel

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 14:25

If they're still green they haven't ripened yet.

how to freez onions

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 11:46

No idea, wardclerk, but White Lisbon is an old, very popular variety:


fruit cracking

Posted: 06/09/2013 at 06:10

They're in the greenhouse, aren't they? Mine are in the ground. I water about every three days but very very very deeply. The roots are driven down deep into the soil away from the heat near the surface.

They're very high temps for a greenhouse because the heat is even more intense in the enclosed environment, even with ventilation. So you have a bit of a vicious circle in place. For the future, it's probably worthwhile trying to keep the temps down.

fruit cracking

Posted: 05/09/2013 at 16:59

I haven't grown Moneymakers but some cursory research suggests they're not known as natural splitters. I think it might be down to overwatering, ccllaarrkkyy. The toms just can't absorb the amount of moisture they're getting. Twice a day is an awful lot of water. Mine never get that much and my temps are in the high 30s and low 40s.

fruit cracking

Posted: 05/09/2013 at 13:05

That's concentric cracking on the tom (as opposed to radial cracking where the cracks run vertically). Some tomato varieties are prone to it regardless of conditions. It may also be a watering issue as suggested above.

Best to harvest the tom now, ccllaarrkkyy, and let it ripen inside. The crack will open up and create a possible entry point for infection.

Chillies again!

Posted: 05/09/2013 at 06:32

finty, the only way to know is to try one. They're either a black variety or passing their use-by date. If the latter, they will be getting soft.

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