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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

The Purple Ukranian scandal! (tomato related!)

Posted: 14/08/2015 at 08:15

While a hybrid's gene pool is (usually) very stable, heirlooms' pure gene pools can be volatile.

This is Cherokee Purple:

http://s3.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/87263.png?width=350

Years ago in the US, a grower by the name of Craig LeHoullier, a legend amongst heirloom growers, discovered a fruit on his CP plant that was more a mahogany brown colour. Apparently a spontaneous mutation of a colour gene.

He saved seeds, planted them out, and selected only those resulting toms that exhibited the brown colour. Ditto the following seasons until, eventually, he stabilised what became known as Cherokee Chocolate:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/87271.jpg?width=350&height=350&mode=max

Some people find that, for taste and texture, it's essentially the same tom with a different coloured skin. I don't think so. I like CC a lot, but find CP has more taste complexity. And is a better producer. I highly recommend CP to anyone and everyone. Doesn't need a long growing season, doesn't take up a lot of space, is a good producer and delicious.

While stabilised, Cherokee Chocolate can still throw up some genetic quirks. Lo and behold, a green-when-ripe fruit turned up on a CC plant. Seeds saved, grown out over successive seasons, stabilised, and Cherokee Green came into existence:

http://s3.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/87268.jpg?width=350

One of the best green-when-ripe toms I've tasted.

Who knows what else CC has in store? Tomatoes and their genes!

Bye-bye bamboo

Posted: 14/08/2015 at 07:44

If it's the invasive type, steel containers don't restrict bamboo. At our last house in Sydney someone planted bamboo in a buried stainless-steel laundry trough. The runners hit the walls, ran straight up the sides and out.

The Purple Ukranian scandal! (tomato related!)

Posted: 14/08/2015 at 06:36

Joe, they should be a distinct plum shape as per Bob's link. The smaller ones on your plant look to be heading in the right direction. The bigger ones aren't looking plum-shaped, they're more heart-shaped. 

That split will gradually open and expose the fruit to insects, infection, etc. It's all right for the moment but take it inside as soon as you see it opening. You'll need to keep an eye on it inside too.

Commercial hybrid varieties have been well and truly stabilised (the gene pool set to produce identically) before they're released to the public. It's very rare, though not impossible, to have glitches. 

In short, you cross your selected varieties with some sort of goal in mind. The first generation of saved seed will produce an assortment of versions of the parents. You save seed only from the fruits that seem to be heading towards your goal - colour, shape, size, whatever. With each successive generation you, again, only save seeds from fruit heading towards your goal. Eventually, you end up with the fruit you want.

Depending how any parent varieties are involved, it can take a number of years to stabilise them, although commercial operations develop them on a large scale so they can hasten the process. It can be a slow, painstaking process for the home gardener with limited growing space and restricted to one season a year.

In fact, when I lived in Sydney, tomato-growing friends and I were in touch with several growers in the US who were hybridising. They used to send us seeds to grow out in our SH season, thus giving them two seasons a year, theirs and ours. They would tell us their goal, we would save seeds from the resulting fruit (that matched their goal) and send the seeds back for them to use for the next generation.

Perversely, some of the US growers, fanatics, were even trying to dehybridise varieties, getting back to the original parent varieties. An almighty challenge because you have no idea where you're going beyond suspicions and hunches. Made all the harder by the commercial operations, the original hybridisers, guarding the names of their parent varieties fiercely.

Why won't my tomatoes ripen?

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 14:29

All you can do is stop feeding them. Cut back on the watering too. Toms will respond better to "controlled neglect". 

The Purple Ukranian scandal! (tomato related!)

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 13:30

Couldn't copy the addresses in this Chrome browser, they spread outside the dialogue box. Tried it in Firefox, it worked. 

The larger ones look a bit too big for the Ukrainian Purple that I know. Looking more like Ox-hearts without the ribbing. The smaller ones seem to be about right and the right shape. The bigger ones could be oddities or it could be a crossed seed. You'll have to wait till they colour up. Please report back, I'd love to know.

Best spring onions

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 09:42

I'd suggest Lilia too. White Lisbon is a good old reliable.

The Purple Ukranian scandal! (tomato related!)

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 09:37

The one in your hand in the link that works doesn't look plum-shaped. The one behind it looks like it might be. Can you post another photo showing a couple of the fruit in profile?

Moving Asparagus

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 09:30

Early spring is best when they're still mainly dormant. You only planted this year so you should have fewer problems than usual, the root systems won't have developed anything like the complexity mature plants have. I've transplanted mature plants and untangling the root systems can be a bit of a nightmare.

Why won't my tomatoes ripen?

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 09:13

Plant size can depend on the variety. 5ft is probably about average for an indeterminate variety. Are yours indoors or outdoors, annmarie? If indoors, the flowers can need help self-pollinating. Give them a flick with your fingers. You can do the same thing outdoors, too. It will help trigger the internal self-pollination process.

If you're feeding them, stop for a while. Fertilising, particularly over-fertilising, can hinder the production of flowers and, therefore, fruit.

Why won't my tomatoes ripen?

Posted: 13/08/2015 at 07:16

No problems. Larger-fruited varieties will take a bit longer than smaller ones. The temps should be reasonable in a greenhouse. As a rule of thumb, with reasonable temps, they should take (very roughly) 4 or 5 weeks to ripen from the time they start to change colour from the original dark green.

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