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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Strawberry Plants

Posted: 08/10/2014 at 07:36

I've moved mine around this time of year. After they've finished producing, giving them time to re-establish before it gets too cold.

Last years Garlic as this years seed ?

Posted: 07/10/2014 at 08:34

I had to give up growing garlic for space reasons but I always found it best to buy in good quality seed garlic. Plumper, healthier and certified disease-free.

Tomato Blight

Posted: 03/10/2014 at 11:00

I must be lucky. In 25+ years of tom growing, never suffered Late Blight. 

Tomato Blight

Posted: 03/10/2014 at 08:51

Tomsk, no idea why they should taste "salty". It's highly unlikely to be related to any feeding procedure. Toms' flavours are dictated by their genes. 

The number of seeds is down to the variety. Some are loaded with seeds, others - plum varieties, for example - have fewer seeds.

Woodgreen, "blight resistant" just means the plant will, in theory, cope better with fungal infections. If fungal spores are around, a plant will become infected. In fact, for the more benign* fungal infections like Early Blight, good housekeeping - nipping off affected foliage at the first sign of infection, etc - should see the plant through to the end of the season.

*As opposed to the destructive infections like Late Blight.

dehydrating chilli peppers

Posted: 01/10/2014 at 08:25

A couple of years ago I left mine on the plants in the garden well into winter. They freeze-dried. Perfect.

TOMATO BLIGHT- What to do next year?

Posted: 20/09/2014 at 06:57

Not a bad idea. There are hybrid varieties around that are marketed as resistant to various fungal diseases. It doesn't mean they won't contract disease, just that they should cope better with it.

That said, the common fungal diseases - apart from Late Blight - take a long time to knock over a plant. Good housekeeping - removing affected foliage at the first sign of symptoms - should see the plant through to the end of the season. Late Blight is a different matter. It spells curtains.

green tomatoes

Posted: 19/09/2014 at 06:55

Optimum ripening temps are in the 20s, the warmer the better. Overnight temps need to be factored in, too. With an orange hue, they're well on the way. Don't let them get too hot.

TOMATO BLIGHT- What to do next year?

Posted: 16/09/2014 at 08:05

Jill, your situation isn't as dire as you think. "Blight" has become a generic term for the various fungal diseases that can affect tomatoes. The most common in the domestic garden are Early Blight and Septoria Leaf Spot.

Your soil hasn't been poisoned, per se. In all likelihood, fungal spores will have fallen from the plants to the soil beneath. They can and will survive a winter on top of the soil. The danger in planting next season in the same, untouched soil is that watering the plants will splash the spores back up onto the new plants' foliage, thus infecting them.

For space reasons, I've planted toms in the same spot for a decade or more. Prior to planting in a new season, I turn over the soil very well, burying any spores. Underground, they can't do any damage. Then I refresh the soil on top. Any fungal problems I suffer during the new season will be the result of fresh infections during the season. Fungal spores are airborne, they travel on the breeze. 

When to pick green tomatoes

Posted: 12/09/2014 at 08:45

Ripening is down to temperatures. Optimum temps are low-20sC and above. The lower the temps, factoring in overnight temps as well, the longer the wait. As a general rule, come the point when it's consistently warmer inside than outside, you're better off taking them inside.

Tomato blight

Posted: 05/09/2014 at 10:22

Just what the tomato world needed - another Blight. 

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