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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Tomato Problem

Posted: 15/07/2013 at 07:56

Sandlake - re the pots. Fair enough, all I saw was the wee pots, didn't see the grow bags. Serves me right for not paying more attention. I'll have a close look at those leaf photos later.

Runner Beans

Posted: 14/07/2013 at 09:05
MARIE5 wrote (see)

Have also been  giving them some tomato liquid fertilizer once a week is that OK ??

If the soil is decent to start with, they don't need any fertilising. They manufacture their own nitrogen supply anyway.

How to harvest rocket

Posted: 14/07/2013 at 09:03

Pick the larger, outside leaves first, leaving the younger, inner leaves to develop.

Freshly picked peas

Posted: 14/07/2013 at 09:01

I'm with Welshonion. As soon as they come back to the boil at an absolute maximum. I usually don't even wait that long. All you want to do is stun the pea's growth enzyme and contact with the boiling water is usually enough for that.

Tomato Problem

Posted: 14/07/2013 at 08:57

SandLake, it's not a nitrogen deficiency. I'm not sure that it's TMV either. The best way to check for TMV is to look at the newer, younger leaves. It usually produces a mottled mixture of light and dark green on the leaf surface. Easy to see if it's present.

The fruit looks healthy too. TMV will affect the fruit.

Disease-resistance only means that a plant will, supposedly, last longer with the disease than a non-resistant plant. It doesn't mean a plant won't get the disease.

One other thing. Those small inner pots are very very small for an indeterminate variety. First thing I'd do would be to pot them up into at least a 25-30cm pot.

Tomato Problems

Posted: 14/07/2013 at 06:37

Out of interest, bookmonster, what's the pH of the compost? If you still have a bag, the figure should be listed on it alongside the ingredients, etc. Some peat-free composts have a pH higher than toms really like.

Changing soil with chilli plants

Posted: 13/07/2013 at 07:28

Tina, chillies don't overwinter well. They're very like tomatoes, perennials grown as annuals. They will struggle for the necessary sunlight and warmth to survive till next season.

Anyway, back to the original question, chillies can be grown in any good quality potting mix. I'd avoid peat-free mix. Peat is a necessary contributor to the pH levels of the mix.

cucumbers

Posted: 13/07/2013 at 07:23

The dose is usually a couple of tbsps of ES to a gallon of water.

What sort of mix are the cukes planted in? Epsom salts is useful in cases of magnesium deficiency but it's unlikely good quality mixes will be deficient in magnesium. The problem could also be a sunlight/temp issue. Cukes need as much of both as possible.

Tomato Problems

Posted: 13/07/2013 at 07:18

Some commercial potting mixes are better than others, bookmonster. You get what you pay for. The cheaper it is, the more rubbish it is. But a top quality mix will have more than enough of the right basic nutrients for the plant not to show signs of deficiencies. How would you rate your mix?

Shame about the lack of evidence. All you can really do is keep a watching brief and post more photos if the need arises.

 

Tomatoe problem

Posted: 13/07/2013 at 07:05

It does sound like BER. Here it is in an advanced state:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/27345.jpg?width=194&height=259&mode=max

It's not just irregular watering that can cause it though it can be a factor. Keeping the soil moist isn't a factor. BER is caused by plant stress stifling the plant's ability to distribute calcium to the fruit via its internal mechanisms. Strong winds can cause it, seriously fluctuating temps, overfertilising, etc. Anything that will physically stress the plant.

In addition, some varieties - the plum-shaped ones, like San Marzano, etc - are simply genetically prone to BER. No one knows why.

One or more tomatoes on a plant suffering BER doesn't necessarily mean the plant's entire production will suffer. If whatever is causing the plant stress is addressed, later toms will be fine.

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