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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

tomato-problems

Posted: 20/08/2013 at 13:30

It sounds like the plant has copped a bit in terms of climate. I think that's probably the problem. I wouldn't take off any more foliage except, if need be, to keep the air circulating to minimise fungal problems.

I'd compost the blemished fruit. The blemish will probably only get bigger and deeper.

They shouldn't need fertilising every week. Toms do best when left to cope for themselves and even struggle a bit. I'd cut it back to every couple of weeks at most.

tomato-problems

Posted: 20/08/2013 at 11:33

It's not BER, Bf. It's not blight either. That sort of purpling of the leaves is usually a sign of plant stress of some sort. I've had those sorts of patches on some of my toms this year. They're in the ground and temps have been in the 40sC.

What sort of temps are the toms getting and what's your watering regime?

No fruit showing on Butternut Squash in polytunnel

Posted: 20/08/2013 at 07:24

lbn, you make comfrey fertiliser from comfrey leaves. Soak them in water in a container with a lid for about a month depending on the temperature. The resultant liquid is then diluted before use.

Old compost mixed with water wouldn't have the nutrients you'd be looking for.

No fruit showing on Butternut Squash in polytunnel

Posted: 20/08/2013 at 07:17

Yeah yeah, Dove, famous last words.

tomatoes

Posted: 20/08/2013 at 07:15

Assuming it's a red, subject to temperature, that looks about a fortnight away, Zombie.

tomatoes

Posted: 19/08/2013 at 15:58

Yes, it can be overwatering. The skins can't expand quickly enough to contain the increased moisture. But there are also some varieties that are prone to splitting regardless of moisture levels.

I've mentioned it here before, but the closer a tom gets to ripe, the less it takes from the plant. Ripening is actually an internal chemical process for the tom with the plant playing no role.

q-about-tom-plants

Posted: 19/08/2013 at 10:04

Yes, given a couple of provisos. If they're hybrids, the seeds won't produce true to type. If they're heirlooms, they will produce true to type unless cross-pollination has occurred. Cross-pollination is always a possibility with different varieties grown in close proximity thanks to busy-body insects going from variety to variety and mixing up the pollen.

tomatoes

Posted: 19/08/2013 at 09:57

Zombie, I harvest when they're firm with just the very slightest hint of give. Bear in mind the tom will continue to ripen - and soften - after harvesting. Don't leave it too long.

Verdun, I only grew Sungold once. Too sweet for my liking. And they tend to split if you leave them on the plant to full maturity. The only cherry I ever grow is an heirloom called Camp Joy. It's also known as Chadwick's Cherry. Will grow into a massive plant if you let it, produces tons of delicious red cherries. Send me a PM with address, etc, and I'll send you some seeds.

Here's my Camp Joy in the ground at the moment:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/29521.jpg?width=640&height=350&mode=max

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/29522.jpg?width=640&height=350&mode=max

Mmmm. Those photos are distorted. The cherries look like a plum variety. They're cherries.

more-tomato-problems

Posted: 18/08/2013 at 12:59

Colin, you can hunt them down, checking carefully on both sides of the leaves and all around the stems and branches. At night, with a torch, is best.

Or, if you want to, you can spray against them with any of the Bacillus thuringiensis-based products. DiPel is probably the best known. It's organic, a bacteria extracted from soil, and harmless to everything except caterpillars. It's not a contact spray so you don't need to hit the critters to wipe them out.

more-tomato-problems

Posted: 18/08/2013 at 11:21

Sounds right. The evidence will be inside the tom if so.

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