London (change)
Today 10°C / 10°C
Tomorrow 13°C / 11°C

Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Tomatoes

Posted: 26/05/2013 at 06:25

You can take off the cotyledons, Bf. Once you've got developed foliage the cotyledons have done their job. They provide the nourishment till the real leaves come along.

The deeper you bury the plants the better. All of the stem that's underground will turn into root structure. I take off all wee branches and foliage up to the canopy - the very top cluster of wee branches and foliage. Then I plant so that the canopy is virtually sitting on top of the soil. It will be off the soil within two or three days as the plant starts to grow.

Tomatoes

Posted: 25/05/2013 at 07:39
greengardener2 wrote (see)

I have Gardener's Delight outside - but also, for the first time, something just called 'Italian Plum' tomato. Should I pinch out the side shoots of the latter or leave to grow as a bush? Anyone happen to know? Thanks

Haven't come across "Italian Plum" as the name of a variety. Sounds more like a description. San Marzano and other similiar tomatoes are "plums". What is its growth habit at the moment? Spreading like a bush variety or developing separate leaders with growing tips?

If it's a true "plum" variety it should be doing the latter as an indeterminate variety. You can nip out the side shoots.

tomatoes

Posted: 24/05/2013 at 10:29

Bf, it will be virtually impossible to tell the cherries apart for a while yet. They're all RL and the leaves are still developing. You'd get a better idea when the trusses start to form. Eg, Sungold develops a long cluster with the flowers pretty densely packed, Black Cherry's clusters aren't as long and the flowers are less densely packed.

But that's probably further down the track than you really want. Moral: Always label your plants!

tomatoes

Posted: 24/05/2013 at 07:14

You'd feed a couple of armies with 30 plants, Bf. There are two of us and I usually grow about 8 or 9 plants - in the ground, all indeterminates - and we struggle to eat all the toms. We're popular with our friends at tomato harvest time.

tomatoes

Posted: 23/05/2013 at 18:54

With indeterminates, Bf, the larger the pot the more chance the plant has of reaching its potential. Personally, I wouldn't go under 25 litres but they'll cope in 20 litres.

Most importantly, look for pot depth. The plants will need staking and the stakes need depth of soil for stability. Too shallow and the stakes - and plants - will blow over in the first strong wind.

Purple Tomato leaves

Posted: 23/05/2013 at 06:58

That's on the cool side. Still, they're tough little blighters.

Toms

Posted: 22/05/2013 at 08:19

Any chance of a photo, CLER? As Gilly says, it could be a fungal problem.

Purple Tomato leaves

Posted: 20/05/2013 at 07:28

Hi Mandy. Hints of purple on the leaves of seedlings is very common. Cool weather can cause it. If they're in decent potting mix it shouldn't be a deficiency but it wouldn't hurt to give them a diluted feed - 50% of the recommended strength. Don't feed them again until the first flowers appear.

Talkback:

Posted: 20/05/2013 at 07:20

Dotty, if they're at hardening-off stage they won't need watering while you're away. They will cope perfectly well for four days on their own. Tomato roots should never be permanently damp.

Where they go for the four days depends on what your day and night temps are like. What are they currently?

Celeriac info

Posted: 19/05/2013 at 17:20

Yes, I'm lucky living here in very many ways. Except in cases like a couple of years ago when it was so achingly hot for such extended periods - low-40s for six weeks or so - that most of my tomato flowers just fried on the plants.

Discussions started by Italophile

Italophile has not started any discussions