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Latest posts by Italophile

Tomato plants in greenhouse

Posted: 26/07/2013 at 13:11

Ah, Laurel & Hardy come to the forum!

LL, Dove's right about the temperature ripening the toms, but it's a good idea, too, to thin out some of the foliage if it's forming thick clumps. Air circulation is a good aid against fungal problems and clumps of leaves stifle air circulation.

first time tomato grower seeks advice

Posted: 26/07/2013 at 08:20

Tomsk, the flowers wither and fall off if they haven't been pollinated. It's common. Not all flowers produce tomatoes.

non flowering jasmine

Posted: 26/07/2013 at 08:15

kati, are they in the ground? And getting plenty of sun? Jasmine respond well to a feed with a fertiliser high in potassium. Tomato fertiliser works well.

Why won't my tomatoes ripen?

Posted: 26/07/2013 at 08:08

Valerie, ripening (or maturity) is down to a couple of things. First, the variety. Some varieties mature earlier than others. Second, once the fruit is at the stage where it's ready to ripen, it's down to temperature alone. Toms don't need direct sunlight to ripen. Optimum temps for ripening are low-20sC+.

How often are you feeding them? Overfeeding can play tricks on the plant's system and delay ripening.

Harvesting Seeds

Posted: 26/07/2013 at 07:38

Saving seeds from F1 plants gives you F2 seeds. F2 seeds won't produce true to the F1 parent plants because, in simple terms, you're starting to unravel the gene combinations created and stabilised in the breeding of the F1 plant.

F2 seeds will usually produce fruit recognisably similar to the F1 fruit but with variations. The further you go down this road - F3 seeds, etc - the greater the variations you'll see.

I know some tomato growers with too much time on their hands who delight in trying to grow out F1 tomato plants to try to determine the original varieties used in the F1 creation. Most seed companies who create F1 varieties decline to reveal the varieties they use.

The more varieties used in the creation of the F1 plant, the longer it takes to trace its origins. I know one chap who spent 10 years on one plant. As I say, too much time on his hands.

crumbling rasberries

Posted: 25/07/2013 at 14:03

Any other symptoms, Anthony? How does the foliage look?

Tomato fruit issue

Posted: 25/07/2013 at 11:07

On a seriously warm day, any sort of ventilation will struggle to keep the temps down inside.

Tomato fruit issue

Posted: 25/07/2013 at 08:02

Kevin, 35C is very hot for toms in a closed environment, shaded or otherwise. It's the ambient temp that's important. I think that could be your problem. Can you increase the ventilation?

Tomatoes can be moved providing you do it at the coolest time of the day (or night). I've dug up mature plants from my garden and put them into containers for a neighbour. Water well first, take the whole root ball with soil, and transplant. Keep the transplant out of direct, warm sun for three or four days.

Lavender dying

Posted: 24/07/2013 at 06:39

Agreed. Young lavender needs water to get established, particularly in hot weather, but the roots can't be allowed to remain wet. Not only very well-drained mix but a container with plenty of drainage holes.

Tomato fruit issue

Posted: 23/07/2013 at 08:42

Kevin, the absence of other symptoms seems to suggest it's cultural. How hot has it been getting in the greenhouse? Excessive heat can impact on fruit.

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