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Italophile


Latest posts by Italophile

Dreaded Tomato Blight

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 18:13

Leggi, the problem isn't your patch. Unless you have spuds infected with LB lying around the place! The spores travel on the breeze, they can come from anywhere, and revel in mild to warm, damp conditions. In a hot, dry summer you rarely see LB. In fact, you don't see many fungal problems in hot, dry conditions. I don't see many here.

All you can do is plant, do your utmost in terms of plant housekeeping, and cross your fingers. You can also spray preventively against many of the fungal problems, but the traditional fungicides - the copper based ones - are much less effective against LB.

Talkback: Growing dwarf French beans

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 18:02

And if it's at all warm when they're flowering, beans need plenty of moisture.

Talkback: Tomato blight

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 17:58

Dipadee, I don't know how big your tubs are but it's a good idea to replace the soil (or mix) every year anyway. A season of growing depletes the growing medium of its nutrients and goodness. Starting a new season afresh gives the plants a healthy head start.

There a varieties coming onto the market that are being sold as blight-resistant. That doesn't mean they won't get fungal disease, just that they will - it is claimed - battle on a bit longer when they have it. Honestly, if you spray preventively, or if you don't like spraying and just observe good housekeeping practice at the least, any tomato plant will battle on against fungal disease.

In saying that, I'm talking about the most common fungal problems - Early Blight, Septoria Leaf Spot, etc. Keeping plants well spaced to aid air circulation, removing affected foliage as soon as symptoms appear, keeping the foliage dry and judiciously removing excess foliage to aid air circulation will all help. It takes a very long time for the common fungal problems (above) to kill a tomato plant.

Something like Late Blight, on the other hand, will kill a plant within a week. There's no such thing as resistance to Late Blight.

What's wrong with these tomatoes?

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 16:16

Very healthy foliage indeed, which is a good sign.

Are the affected toms smooth to the touch or can you feel the blemishes on the surface?

The first photo shows what looks like a small lump or bump on the fruit on the LHS and what looks like a white substance between the two on the RHS. Am I right or seeing things?

The last photo shows a tom with a small split with black edges that indicate some infection. Is there damage to any of the other affected toms?

 

De Cayenne chilli

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 12:53

Great advice from Geoff, as always. Apart from bright light, they will need as much warmth as they can get, too. Peppers have exactly the same requirements as toms.

Monty's advice on Strawberries ........

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 12:51

You can borrow mine. I refresh a patch by digging in fresh compost, soil, etc, every season.

Monty's advice on Strawberries ........

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 11:22

Well, I've had a dedicated strawb bed for eons. Monty's advice is, no doubt, based on the notion that replanting anything in the same patch can lead to a build-up of unfriendly nasties. I find that refreshing a dedicated patch each season looks after the build-up problem.

Dreaded Tomato Blight

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 09:09

Very strange. Post a photo of the infected leaves before you bin them next time.

Dreaded Tomato Blight

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 08:15

Odd that there's nothing showing on the foliage. LB usually starts on the leaves.

Talkback: Tomato blight

Posted: 13/08/2012 at 07:47

Rosemary, Late Blight also manifests on the foliage, resembling dirty brown watersoaked patches. Here's a good example:

http://s4.gardenersworld.com/uploads/images/original/10770.jpg?width=255&height=300&mode=max

If you're seeing that as well as well as the stem lesions, it's Late Blight. It's terminal, unfortunately. All you can do is remove and destroy the plants.

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