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Jim Macd


Latest posts by Jim Macd

Guelder Rose

Posted: 29/01/2014 at 23:48
nutcutlet wrote (see)

The birds are quick off the mark with rowan berries. I have S. hupehensis which berried very well this year. I thought the birds weren't interested then suddenly they found them and stripped it in a day. 

I've never tried grafting and budding, everything comes from seed. 

I might try some hardwood cuttings from the V. opulus, I never find seedlings about.

I found one, it was quite big, it must have seeded the first year after planting unless it was coincidence. (The stuff I've had come up that I just bought is weird, like some cosmic joke. .) There's loads of V. o. just a mile away. I live near Durham Wildlife HQ 

Grafting and budding is really not hard. You have to follow a couple of basic rules then it looks after itself. You should give it a try if there's a variety of something you feel you made a mistake with then graft it over. You get a big head start on growing a new one. 

Guelder Rose

Posted: 29/01/2014 at 20:02

Agree nut. I enjoy the autumn colour on mine more than anything else I think, probably because I have one near my window and when I have the light on at night it looks really otherworldly. I've got a load of hard wood cuttings from mine this year. I can't get enough of them and the birds strip the berries from them very quickly. The tree they strip the berries from first is the Rowan. The minute they're red, they're gone, not the S. vilmorinii though, that's getting grafted over this year, I've had enough of it, it hardly ever sets any fruit, it looks sparse and wispy, it's a weird shape the berries that I did get are still there untouched. I've got a Sorbe, S. domestica, I'm going to have a go at grafting or budding that in the hope I can get some fruit before I'm too old to care. Not all the grafts took from the Edulis but all the chip buds took so maybe that's the best way to go and you get more for you efforts. 

Guelder Rose

Posted: 29/01/2014 at 14:26

There isn't an evergreen V. opulus. There's loads of good shrubs for berries, V.o. is one but not evergreen, Pyracnatha c. Cadrou is great for berries and birds love it. They stripped mine clean over Christmas week. Holly and ivy are good native evergreens for birds and wildlife. I would advise to look up what is native then check if evergreen and if has berries before buying anything. Google is a wonderful tool.

Moving an Old Berberis Darwinii

Posted: 16/01/2014 at 19:01

Not more rain!? Well, you've done a great job, I'm sure you won't need all that support for too long but it won't hurt and would be a shame if something did go wrong. I planted a much taller pear with much less root than that without so much as a degree of leaning. I'm sure you will because you've done a great job but keep it well watered for the next year, even if it has rained. But don't worry about feeding it anymore. Just let it settle in, but do keep it weed free while it settles back in. 

Moving an Old Berberis Darwinii

Posted: 16/01/2014 at 18:04

It looks very happy in it's new home and I think it was worth the effort. The first photo you took really didn't do it justice. This is just my personal taste but I'd like to see some of those nice big chunky roots showing above the ground a bit. I am very chuffed for you though.

Apple Trees

Posted: 13/01/2014 at 22:27

Nice to Keeper's Nursery on the telly tonight. Very inspiring. I wish I had twenty times the garden I do. 

Grasses for bees/butterflies?

Posted: 13/01/2014 at 22:24

Looks like you had a memorable visit. Lovely. 

Apple Trees

Posted: 12/01/2014 at 17:05

You miniature cherries, may have got huge because you possibly buried the graft and the scion rooted. You have to be really careful not to plant a grafted fruit tree too deep. Even an inch above soil level may bee too little.

Don't buy an apple you can buy in the shop unless it is very special or the ones in the shops taste disgusting. 

There are hundreds to choose from and that is literally and understatement. 

For a cooker try Grenadier - it is very reliable. But if you're only going to get two trees I'd want a more dual purpose cooker or just cook the desert. When you say 'cooker' that can mean at least two things. Either you want a pulpy apple or a tart apple that doesn't pulp. Orleans Reinette is the favourite cooker for the French Chef but not a great cropper for me. James Grieve is my best cropper for eating and cooking to a pulp. It cooks in a minute unless you have gallons of apple. 

Winter King or Winston is supposed to be a great, reliable, good cropping eater of the Cox style. But if you like a Braeburn you're more likely to like Spartan which is also a good cropper unless you live somewhere on the west coast where it rains a lot. 

You'll probably want to get it on an M9 or MM106 rootstock for a pot. That sounds counter intuitive but M27 rootstocks aren't vigorous enough to keep on going in a confined space. 

You'll want a two year old tree too. A tiny bit more expensive but worth the few ponds. 

Don't worry about pollination unless you live in the middle of acres of farm land. 

Snowdrop bulbs

Posted: 24/12/2013 at 12:29

I would leave them together. They'll look much better rather than one hear and one there. When I planted mine the first time I got them I planted them out as if I were grwoing for production. Then I realised they looked really loanly and a bit sad.

Identifying orchard tree varieties

Posted: 23/12/2013 at 10:25

Apples are quite tough, I wouldn't reduce the tree crown by more than about 1/4 to 1/5. Most trees will be fine but if it's a valued tree I wouldn't take the chance. It's best to do it over several years if you want a large reduction. Just as a general rule that is. Something like a Bramley would be fine if you hacked it to the ground I'm sure.

Discussions started by Jim Macd

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1 to 15 of 18 threads