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jo4eyes


Latest posts by jo4eyes

thalictrum

Posted: 07/10/2013 at 17:10

IME if you look carefully around near/sometimes not so near (!) the plant you should find several 'babies', from previous yrs self-sown seeds. Ok the foliage is very similar to that of Aquilegias if you also have those, but you should be able to identify the thalictrums. They pot up & transplant very well in spring/autumn. J.

Planting sage and thyme together?

Posted: 07/10/2013 at 17:04

IME thyme dislikes to be shaded by any other plant, so a separate pot  for each may be an answer.

Gritty, poorish MP compost, NOT a substantial one like JI3, would be best for herbs. Dont forget to wrap the pot for the winter, the roots mustnt freeze. Also stand the pot on 'feet' to help keep the drainage. Full sun position, if possible.

I must admit that everytime I've tried sage in a pot it ends up 'unhappy' despite my best efforts with compost quality & drainage, sun etc. I did however put a sage plant into a sunnyish spot in very shallow soil, barely 6'' in depth, overlying the brick sub-straight (i think that's what you'd call it) at the patio edge. The plant is huge & obviously very happy, despite the previous 2 cold winters. The poor thyme however, in an adjacent patio crack, is completely swamped by the sage, so cuttings of it are now in the coldframe! J.

Dicentra Care

Posted: 23/09/2013 at 13:24

Dicentras naturally die back over the summer, having flowered in spring.

I just leave mine alone, but it is adviseable to make sure that you have a marker in place so that later in the year you dont 'spike' through it with a fork/spade. J.

palaisglide

Posted: 24/08/2013 at 12:38

A lot of posters obviously sneak onto the forum when at work Zoomer, unlike yourself. So evenings are quieter.

I was wondering about Frank too...... J.

cosmos-palnts

Posted: 24/08/2013 at 12:30

If they are planted in 1. too much shade they will not flower well, or 2. too rich/good a soil they will grow bigger but at the expense of flowers. Treat them mean, dont feed, they'll eventually do their thing. J.

What's the weather like in your area?

Posted: 24/08/2013 at 12:26

WManchester- sun just disappearing.... It rained last evening, just as had watered the patio pots & vegs! Rained most of the night too.

About 18C now & am going to do the ironing, J.

lack-of-water

Posted: 23/08/2013 at 16:40

I'd be inclined to cut things back if they are obviously 'past it'. They may well restart again, ok only to die back as per normal when the autumn comes, but at least you will have removed the risk of infection etc from rotting material.

Next spring you may find that some of the plants dont regrow, as they were relatively newly planted. It's sad, but gives you a fresh chance to replant with new ones. Try & stick to 'right plant, right place', use small ones as they establish better & cost less too.

Next year, when the soil is moist after the winter rains, apply a good layer of mulch around your flower beds & the plants should then cope better with a prolonged dry spell in the following summer. J.

Shade and dry loving plants

Posted: 23/08/2013 at 16:30

I agree, Vincas, Lamiums, Epimediums & the ground cover G.Macrorhizum all should cope. A small leaved varigated ivy too.

Whatever you decide to use, when planting dig a small 'pocket' in the soil, water it, then add some nice compost before you plant. Keep any new plantings well watered even in wet weather, as the tree canopy will not necessarily allow that much moisture to percolate down to the ground.

Small bulbs such as cyclamen & Erythroniums would also cope quite well. Both die back as the canopy closes over in late Spring. J.

hydrangeas-not-flowering

Posted: 23/08/2013 at 16:21
Marina Spooner2 wrote (see)

I have 2 hydrangeas in pots and neither of them is flowering.  I would really appreciate it if anyone can give me some info on this.  Thank you.

Have you pruned them? If you cut the old flower heads/stalks off earlier this yr, you may have also removed the wood that was due to flower this yr? A 'quick tidy up' & the damage is done.

Also how long have they been in their pots? They could be 'starved' in old compost/too small a pot.J.

is-this-the-year-of-the-dahlia

Posted: 23/08/2013 at 16:05

Hi LAnn, I cant keep dahlias in the ground here- too many slugs etc- so I always grow mine in big pots.

For over winter storage I wait until the foliage is blackened most times, or by the end of Oct for me re the frosts. Then I put the pot, on it's 'saucer', into my part glazed porch to dry off for about a week. Then I bubble wrap the pot, cut back the foliage, give it a 'cap' of fleece & shove it under a plant table. So mine are actually stored in their compost, but kept very dry.There it stays until late Feb/early March when I investigate the tubers & restart them on a windowsill inside.

I did try storing them 'properly' ie dry tubers in sand etc one yr in my shed & lost the lot. So back to my usual way.

The cellar sounds good as it wont freeze, it's dry too. Sheds arent frost free & an unheated greenhouse up Nrth will be too cold.

I did manage to keep 2 wrapped/covered pots alive in my big wooden coldframe last winter. They'd been eated to death by the slugs so I'd removed the labels-twit- & only decided to store them when I spotted fresh growth starting very late in the season. Am well pleased as they turned out to be 'good' ones I had & not Aldi's best!

Good luck, J.

Discussions started by jo4eyes

Care & maintenance of elderly Bramley apple trees.

Replies: 2    Views: 1898
Last Post: 18/02/2013 at 20:32

Suggestions for planting in a sunny, boggy site.

Replies: 5    Views: 1225
Last Post: 18/02/2013 at 22:38
2 threads returned