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1 to 7 of 7 posts
13 Jan 2018 15:40
Well I took your advice. Cleaned up and tried to sharpen secateurs. They still weren't cutting it very well, tendency to crush the stem, or mangle the bark. Did a few practice cuts and managed to get one that's a lot cleaner near to the next bud down. Still don't think it was a perfect cut but it looks a lot better than what was there.
think I definitely need to invest in a new pair of cutters.
I'll leave the poor plant alone now for a while before I kill the thing!
13 Jan 2018 11:21
using a sharp knife, ive removed the torn bark, so there's nowhere for water to collect and tried to smooth the whole thing a bit, again so water can run off.
Is there a reasonable chance that a wound like that will heal?
Im reluctant to cut down lower because there aren't any other buds - the tree arrived with stumps already cut at the nodes, rather than fresh buds at this height.
there are buds on the main stem much lower down but that's really far down near the graft.
13 Jan 2018 09:43
13 Jan 2018 09:39
Hello I realised this morning that a cut I made the other day on the main stem of a new apple tree was too high above the bud.
So this morning I tried to correct it by cutting a bit lower down, close to the bud.
However my cutters obviously need replacing - the cut went badly wrong and I ended up with a really ragged cut that's torn the bark.
I'm concerned now obviously that this is going to lead to disease or fungal infection of some kind.
The sensible thing would be to make a fresh cut with some SHARP cutters below the level of damage.
But that bud was meant to be the new leader for the tree. If I remove there are no other buds at the correct height to replace it.
Is there anything I can do to help the tree heal that damage without having to cut any more off?
13 Jan 2018 09:00
I think I've found some advice online from a nursery website which helps.
It sounds like there should be growth from the stubs left after cutting the side shoots.
That would be good as there are two stubs on opposite sides that are in a good position for the horizontal branches of the first tier.
Also it suggested that it's best to completely remove any side branches lower down the stem.
so following that advice I should cut off everything lower down, just leaving the bud at the top to be the leader, and the two side stubs.
However maybe it would be best to also leave a couple more stubs lower down just in case those top two don't gow anything for me?
12 Jan 2018 12:49
It didn't help that I was planting it by torchlight!
12 Jan 2018 12:42
Hello, I've been sorting out my garden after having an extension built. Finally got everything cleared so that we can start using it as a garden.
I decided after seeing lots of lovely examples in walled gardens that I'd like to try growing an apple tree 'espalier' along the brick wall at the back of the garden.
I've done all the necessary prep work and on Tuesday this week took delivery of a 1 year old tree.
How ever I'm a bit confused about whether I've pruned it correctly. I was expecting it to be unfeathered, but it arrived with several branches on the main stem - including a few that seem to have already been cut.
I cut the main stem down to roughly 40cm, just above a bud, however I'm unsure where exactly the side arms are going to bud from. There are several other buds but they're either on small side branches that have already been cut or much lower down the stem.
Am I best just to leave it and see where the shoots are in spring before doing anything else to it, or does it require further pruning?