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lydiaann


Latest posts by lydiaann

1 to 10 of 23

Tomato Feed - Yes or No

Posted: 28/03/2014 at 14:26

NewBoy:  Inside in pots while the weather is cool, outside from the time the sun really starts to heat up  and protect at night if the forecast is cool or rainy (gardening fleece, old net curtains, etc.).  :Leaving them in pots means you can follow the sun around if necessary and frees up veg patch space for other luscious goodies.

Yellow is the colour.......

Posted: 28/03/2014 at 14:15

Daffs, forsythia, yellow foliage on my physocarpus Dart's Gold, miniature Antony Waterer spirea and emerging persicaria, start of my Ribes (buffalo currant) flowers...you may not like too much yellow at this time of year, but the pollinating insects LOVE it.

Parsley help

Posted: 28/03/2014 at 14:12

I've always followed my granddad's example...prepare the site, then pour boiling water over the surface.  Wait about 5-10 seconds for it to seep right in, then sow and cover with a fine tilth...works EVERY time, no matter what the variety of parsley or the type of soil.

To prune or not to prune

Posted: 08/02/2014 at 12:24

Do I prune now (which I normally do in February) or do I risk soil/ground compaction in walking on borders and lawns?  Which is going to be most destructive to natural growth - leaving the pruning or walking on the heavy clay in our area?  My shrubs (physocarpus, ribes, buddleja, cornus, etc., etc.) are desperately in need of their haircut but I know that just stepping on the saturated lawns to get to the composter or bird feeders leaves footsteps and damage.

Clay Soil

Posted: 13/11/2013 at 14:43

"Clay is naturally very fertile and although it's hard work to improve the structure, once done you will have one of the best soils there is.". 

Just a reminder, though, it does take time to break down and improve and you won't do it in one go...I am only just seeing the first results after 18 months.  I find that the best time to work anything in is immediately after rain when the soil will have softened.  Then get as deep as possible and stuff as much organic matter in there as you possibly can.  To DoveFromAbove's list I would add even the used compost from this year's containers as well as organic (uncooked) kitchen waste, it all helps to loosen the clay.  No lime, though, the neutral to ever-so slightly acidic clay medium is the best for the widest range of plants.

Summer Jasmine

Posted: 03/11/2013 at 15:52

I moved a summer jasmine in January this year.  I cut it hard back to 3 buds about 9-12" from ground level, dug it out and moved it and the trellis to a sunnier position.  Did nothing until end of May and then it started to grow.  By the time August came I even had 5 flowers on it!  Like their winter flowering relative, it's difficult to kill them.

Perrenials taking over garden

Posted: 09/10/2013 at 14:07

Constant lookout for the emerging plant and pulling/digging it up as deeply as possible straight away may not entirely solve the problem but it does weaken the plant(s) and makes the gaps in between 'treatment' longer.  I am having the same problem with Japanese anemone - can anyone tell me why Alan Titchmarsh and his ilk still recommend this plant?  Pretty as it is in full bloom, it's still a thug!

coffee grounds yea or nay?

Posted: 09/10/2013 at 14:03

Coffee does make soil more acid, but it depends on the size of the garden and the amount of coffee you drink!  I think one filter's worth per day in a large bin wouldn't change the balance that much over the year.

Field maple

Posted: 05/07/2013 at 15:01

You are both spot on - thank you so much!  No action needed apparently, so I'm happy as it is not going to affect any of my trees/shrubs in the garden (the 'heritage hedge' is municipal-owned and thus out of my control).

 

Field maple

Posted: 04/07/2013 at 15:06

At the back of our property is a 'heritage hedge' of approx 60 m in length, consisting of elder, hawthorn, blackthorn, ash (healthy, thank goodness), rowan and field maple.  The latter is my concern today.  The leaves appear to have grown a 'rash' - definitely not bugs - that looks like bright pimples all over, turning to red and then just leaving an 'embossing' as the red fades.  The trees are healthy, as are all of those in the 'hedge'.  Is this a fungus of some sort or a disease?  Is it going to affect the field maples and, possibly, the other trees (although no sign in them) or is it merely a cosmetic problem for this year?  Would it have been caused by the excessive rains of last year (which, I might add, have had an enormous, largely beneficial, effect on the trees, lush good growth, masses of huge blossoms on the elders and huge racemes of seed heads on the ash).  Any help, as usual, will be most gratefully received.

 

1 to 10 of 23

Discussions started by lydiaann

To prune or not to prune

Replies: 8    Views: 258
Last Post: 08/02/2014 at 20:46

Field maple

Fungus or disease? Deadly or a cosmetic problem? 
Replies: 3    Views: 347
Last Post: 05/07/2013 at 15:01

Mystery tree

Replies: 3    Views: 301
Last Post: 26/06/2013 at 14:51

Ants in the compost bin

Replies: 2    Views: 369
Last Post: 17/05/2013 at 09:39

Pruning Rowan/Mountain Ash

Replies: 1    Views: 2813
Last Post: 11/01/2012 at 09:58
5 threads returned