Man of Kent

Latest posts by Man of Kent


Posted: 14/04/2012 at 09:46

Yes I think it is down to personal choice. Its to create one stronger growing stem instead of several smaller ones. It might mean,as has been said , that you get less but larger spuds this way. Whichever you choose to do i hope you get a good crop.

Wood to use for raised veg beds

Posted: 14/04/2012 at 09:33

Untreated wood will certainly slowly rot but i believe you will get a good few years out of scaffold boards before they will have to be replaced. How about if you have the time and inclination to cover the inside face of the boards with any plastic or butyl just to help prolong the life of the boards?

New veg grower and advice needed pls

Posted: 14/04/2012 at 09:24

Agreed. Seeds sown indoors will almost certainly grow quicker than those sown outside, purely because the conditions inside will be warmer. Once planted outside they will slow down a bit and the others will catch up. The green moss like stuff is because the soil is probably too wet or your new raised bed is in the shade. I would ease off a bit with the watering and if you` can get some more sunlight on the new bed.

dwarf apple tree

Posted: 21/03/2012 at 03:16

First of all i would cut out any dead or diseased stems and then those that are crossing each other. Cut above an outward facing bud so that the tree grows out rather than in. Also cut out any weak stems or if you can`t afford to lose them cut hard back to an outward bud. Then with what you have left you could probably leave and do a Summer prune taking the leafy stems back by about half. This will hopefully induce fruit bud for next year. Also don`t forget to feed with a high Potash feed as this will also encourage flower bud. Then mulch to hold in the moisture. Hope that helps and good luck.

Forcing Rhubarb

Posted: 21/03/2012 at 03:02

You should at some time let the plant come back to normal growing conditions in the light. If you don`t then over time the plant will become weak. If you can have about three plants on the go then this would be ideal as you would force one plant every three years, letting it recover in the years that you are not forcing it.


Posted: 21/03/2012 at 02:53

Not to my knowledge. Both mine did well in the same greenhouse last year. They probably would have liked to have their own growing conditions slightly tweeked in their favour but they seem to do well enough.


Posted: 21/03/2012 at 02:45

I would say that in general once they start to flower they are getting close to being ready but it won`t matter if you leave then until the flowers have finished. Once they start to flower see if you can find tubers just under the soil surface. That usually gives an indication of some of the smaller ones. If they are not very big leave them a bit longer. Another tip is to know which variety you grow, i.e. is it a first or second early or a main crop variety as the latter take longer to mature. Another sure sign that they have reached their peak is that the haulm (stem) will start to die back naturally. Hope that helps and good luck.

Encouraging birds to the garden

Posted: 21/03/2012 at 02:27

What about trying Rugosa roses? They are robust, generally flower for long periods and are thorny enough to keep the cats at bay. The flowers will encourage the insects first and then the birds can feed on the hips in the Autumn.

Or how about Cotoneaster.Grow a variety that will spread up a wall or fence. the bees love the small flowers and the birds can feed on the berries later.

Mossy lawns

Posted: 18/03/2012 at 20:43

There can be if you want to aim for the "perfect" lawn. These products can reduce your moss and weed problem leaving you with the stronger growing grass although you are likely to have to re-seed some areas if bald patches appear.

You can try to reduce the moss problem by scarifying the area then airating and sifting in sharp sand. This will help reduce the thatch and better aid drainage. You can also take out large lawn weeds with a trowel ie dandelion & plantain. Both of these again may mean that you have to re-seed some areas where bare patches are left.

holey potatoes

Posted: 18/03/2012 at 20:24

Hi wellygirl2. holey potatoes can be caused both by slugs and wireworm. If the holes are right through then wireworm could be your problem. are you growing on ground which was previously grassland? this is usually a known wireworm breeding habitat. If this is the case and your ground is now in constant use and you are rotating your crops then you will eventually break their life cycle and they will either move on or die off from your ground. Try to prevent slugs with your preferred method as some people do not like to use pellets. Hope this helps and good luck.

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