Marinelilium


Latest posts by Marinelilium

North-east facing front garden ideas

Posted: 13/03/2016 at 10:35
Good information Peter! Cyclamens would thrive in shady, clay and NE aspect. For a formal evergreen Christmas/Sweet Box in the winter would fragrance and greet you and your visitors and it too prefers a bit of moist shade.

Another shade tolerant plant, Hardy Fuchsia, would arch well over the border edges or you could raise them up in containers. Keeping plants tucked within the walls will reduce wind the scorch.

Choosing white flowers or variegated foliage would lighten the area if you don't want to use solar lighting or an exterior light. (Personally I would use containers and then move them about at my will or whim) You cleverly went on a recce to see what neighbours had grown successfully - so many people don't. The Inspiration sections on this site are brilliant. Have fun designing Peter and can we have an 'after' pic pretty-please?

Trailing plants

Posted: 04/03/2016 at 18:03
It's a good 'do-er' for pots and baskets aym280. What colour is the azalea by the way?

Trailing plants

Posted: 04/03/2016 at 17:38
Azaleas are quite showy and bold so I would choose Dichondra argentea Silver Falls so as not to steal the Azalea's thunder.

They'll get along well enough and the Silver Falls will keep giving right up to the first frosts. You could add Bacopas if you want later colour as they like moist compost too.

Fertilizing while there are still frosts?

Posted: 04/03/2016 at 16:43
I mulch and fertilise in late Feb but I am on S coast. Some fertilisers take longer than others to become 'available' to the plant. Growmore, and other surface tilled fertilisers, need microbes and fungi to breakdown the nutrients so the roots can absorb them. (Foliar feeds in late spring and summer are absorbed almost immediately though to remedy any problems).

Frosts can strike right up to mid May (and inland on uplands have even seen 'frosty Friday's in June') As a rule of thumb as soon as night temps average 9C in your zone, or the Hawthorn is in blossom, garden is already 'awake' and may want breakfast. : )

Question about the NPK in fertilizers

Posted: 04/03/2016 at 16:14
The plants also give us clues as to what they need CB:

give me nitrogen: pale green all over

give me potassium: yellow edges and tip and leaf curls under

give me phosphorus: top leaves start to brown and lower leaves yellow

The micro nosh is trickier : calcium loss makes baby leaves hook,
sulphur loss makes the veins yellow and
magnesium loss causes yellow tips and edges - but the bit near the petiole (stalk end) stays green. HTH

suggestions please

Posted: 19/02/2016 at 15:34
Oopsie, not Tropaeolum for chalk soil....maybe a Chocolate Vine Akebia Quintana.

suggestions please

Posted: 19/02/2016 at 15:29
I love that bird bath Tetley!

A net of solar powered LED lights and two (honeysuckles) Lonicera japonica planted with a Tropaeolum specisosum. Butterflies by day and then moths by night.

Too early to plant - NE Scotland?

Posted: 19/02/2016 at 15:10
Each of our gardens has its own micro climate so it's hard to advise on exactly when so ......if the NIGHT temperature stays above 10 deg C most plants from our temperate zone will cope if they are getting 10 hrs of light during the DAY (as a rule of thumb).

Exotics and plants not from our temperate zone need 18-20 degC day and night to germinate healthily. Once grown even exotics will cope with drops to 10deg C at night. HTH

Dangerous slippy path when wet

Posted: 19/02/2016 at 14:53
There are coatings used around swimming pools, gangways and commercial workshops that are non slip and can be painted onto stone, cement, wood and plastics. The area you describe Richard would cost about ??75-??100 in product to coat if you did. No idea what professionals would charge.

Patio flaking and worn - how to fix

Posted: 19/02/2016 at 14:15
James have you prized a slab up? The under side, especially if bedded in sand could be in better shape than the delaminated top surface. By flipping every slab over then using a very stiff yardbrush and new grout sand you may stretch the lifespan. If they have cement blobs underneath then perhaps not worth the effort.

Resin coating the surface once cleaned of loose material may prolong the life of the slabs as they currently lay. Good Luck

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