- Roses - I have about 65 varieties of shrub roses, a few are rare in this country.
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3 days ago at 16:50
In about April time, when it starts to actively grow again, just get a scissors and snip off the top of the plant just below where those two leaves are coming out either side, which will be just above the next bud which is forming below those leaves. it's the work of a second or two.
To be honest, this isn't really crucial as in my experience the shrub will eventually bush out of its own accord,but if you do this in Spring, by summer time it'll look a whole lot better, hopefully. More shrubby.
13 Jan 2018 21:24
I should add, whatever you do, if you plant it in the garden, make sure you get the right position first time. Do not ever dig the plant up and move it, as it will likely be killed. These are difficult plants to move successfully.
13 Jan 2018 21:21
I realise you're ''up north'' somewhere, but unless you're halfway up a mountain, I wouldn't worry too much about hardiness. I'm in East Anglia and have had a couple of severe winters these past few years, and my plant hasn't batted an eyelid. I keep it pruned to 8 x 5 foot, but it would be 12 x 6 or so, if unpruned. It's about 8 years old and flowers from Jan-Apr, can start as early as mid Dec in some years.
Snails live among the branches all summer and will eat every leaf if one isn't vigilant, to the point of defoliation. I remove half a dozen or more, almost every day during the growing season.
Best of luck with yours, pinch out that growing tip in April. I've seen better plants I have to say, about £15 at garden centres, more bushy, but yours will be alright in time. I grow climbing roses through mine in the summer.
05 Jan 2018 18:11
I would always go with metal planters rather than wood, which looks nice but really doesn't last too long, even if treated. I've just got rid of 3 expensive ones, that lasted only about 6 years, they were supposed to last 15.
I have a metal trough planter, it's 1 foot across the top back to front, about 2 feet deep and its width from side to side is about 2 and a half feet.
I have a rose in it, that's been there for 4 years and will be there for as long as I want it to be, I renew some of the top soil each year and feed generously. I also have a metal support for it.
Here are a couple of photos, as you could do something like this if you wanted.. roses may not be your thing though.. choose smaller growing plants, you don't want monsters.
and from June onwards..
26 Oct 2017 18:13
You might also like to contact the Tregothnan Estate in Cornwall where they grow this Camellia for Tea. The Tea they produce is rather expensive but quite superb actually, but for that price you'd want it to be.
I'm sure they would be pleased to advise you further.
19 Oct 2017 15:21
Not a problem. Move them back anytime Nov - Feb. Just dig up and move lock stock and barrel so to speak, and tie the shoots to their support for the winter. Prune in March any growth that might look a bit iffy... but I take the opportunity to summer prune - after the first flush - if they look a bit leggy because of the move, or any dieback that might occur.
18 Oct 2017 18:18
I know rozenlottum.nl are very good, and cheap roses in euros.
I hope you find the right one for you. You cannot go wrong with Blush Noisette.
18 Oct 2017 15:24
Just to add, I notice you want something simple, not extravagant. If you can buy roses from Germany, France or Netherlands, you may like this single white rose, which is very scented of cloves, and will climb up. It also thrives in hot dry climate and your soil conditions.
''Secret Garden Musk Climber''
18 Oct 2017 15:07
The best roses suitable for your climate would be Tea, Noisette or Tea/Noisette and climbing hybrid tea roses but there are many to choose from, and I do not know where you will buy your rose, whether near to your location in Spain or online from anywhere in the E.U.....? so it would be good to know where you intend to buy your rose and if it is grafted or an own root rose.
However, I will give you 3 roses that are good for you but you do not need to choose these, as there are many others.
1. Blush Noisette - available in most countries, very scented, continuous blooming, healthy, and grows in hot dry clay soil. White/pale pink small flowers in clusters.
2. Colombian climber - a climbing Hybrid Tea. Very fragrant, pink, continuous blooming and suitable for a warm climate. I know it grows well in Crete. Available UK and I think in E.U.
3. Marie Nabonnand, very fragrant pink climbing Hybrid Tea, suitable for warm climate. Available own root France/E.U. [not UK]. Always in flower, double or semi double loose flowers. Grows well too in Australlia [hot].
I do hope you find one that you like. Please tell us where you buy your roses from.
'Columbian Climber' from UK [it should be spelt Colombian but never mind]
Last edited: 18 October 2017 15:12:55
15 Oct 2017 21:04
Presumably you are growing it up a support structure like an obelisk? This is very easy to do and nothing to worry about. Just train the taller shoots upward and don't prune too much when deadheading, you can remove some short ones near the base if you want, but I try to keep some as I want blooms lower down too, but keep the longest and just train them on the support, whatever that is.. you'll be needing lots of green string or similar...
This is shrub rose 'Royal Jubilee' trained upwards, normally 5 x 4 foot this reaches 8 to 10 feet as a climber,, and constantly in bloom but I try to keep it at around 6 foot tall or train some shoots sideways along rope connected to another obelisk. It's fun to do actually..
03 Sep 2017 18:38
Oh, thanks for those photos, that's very good.... I might go with 'Claire Austin' looking at the growth habit, as it's become quite tall and lanky, is the older of the two, and wants to climb into that apple tree - those apples look nice, I hope your neighbour gives you some ..
You have a few choices here for next season... for now just leave it and let those buds flower at the top, but if you want to keep the length you will have to train those canes horizontally along the top of the fence, I think I can see some nails already in situ, so you could perhaps carefully bend those canes down and tie in with some string, some canes going right and some left, but if mine I would prune it down to fence height next month, for winter, and next Spring prune again below the fence level and after the first flush next July, I would want to keep it as a shrub, it's easier, which you can do with these if you want, otherwise it'll just try to turn itself into a climber again...and as you can see it gets lanky if you don't do the horizontal training.
You can use an obelisk, I would want one 6 foot above ground height, planted to the right of the bush where you have one of those lights?...I would prune the rose right down to mid fence height next Spring, virtually starting off again with it, and then train the new growth towards the obelisk and twirl it around as it grows..
Choice is yours really....
It's easy to keep as a shrub if you are ruthless with the pruning after the first flush..
I wish my nails were as nice as yours....
03 Sep 2017 15:34
This is probably 'Desdemona' or 'Claire Austin', but I would need to see a lot more of the plant, including buds, blooms, and whole bush photos [no hands please], to be more definitive.. an idea of when it was most likely planted would also help.
Incidentally, these are shrub roses that will throw up long canes which will climb if the gardener allows it, and provides support..
28 Aug 2017 23:33
Some more information is always helpful, like a photo of the whole bush for instance, it's a tall order to guess at red roses otherwise, however, in this case, and as it has a strong scent, I would suggest 'Papa Meilland' as a possibility... bred 1963 and always popular...
23 Aug 2017 23:31
Contact Laura Hill at the Hospice on this link...
..to be honest, it's unlikely you have any that they don't already, but they are missing 20 old Pemberton roses from his original breeding programme, I think they have 49 out of 69... it's these missing 20 they really want to get hold of... it's possible many of them are now extinct... but I hope perhaps you have one or two....
..to help you further, here are a couple of links from the site, the first one are the missing Pemberton roses, and the second one, helps to identify any you might have...
Last edited: 23 August 2017 23:35:08
20 Aug 2017 12:02
Personally, I would call time on that rose and remove it, planting something easier to manage in its place...
20 Aug 2017 11:56
A bit of googling came up with this result for that picket fence...
''White Picket Fence with Climbing English Roses in Heritage, St. Swithun, Mary Rose, Lady's mantle and Salvia 'May Night' hybrid sage''
I might choose different varieties than those today, but so many for you to choose from, hope you enjoy your searching... it's a very personal thing to choose a rose, I think, but white picket fences are ideal for them... I wish I had one...
14 Aug 2017 22:55
Yes absolutely.... with this Eucalyptus you can do any number of things, including pollarding or coppicing if you want, right down to near ground level... not a tree to fret over, as long as you keep on top of it.. I also wouldn't worry about pruning in the winter either, unless you are expecting freezing conditions, but these are very hardy trees here...
14 Aug 2017 22:28
I should add, looking again at the bottom photo, where the trunks look thicker and the tree taller, if you want to take it down further, then I would use a saw to cut through those trunks, at whatever height I was comfortable with on the ladder, [might need someone to steady it on grass]. It's perfectly alright to cut back as far as you want, or are able to manage without over exerting yourself, they will quickly regrow, and by next year will be shooting up again, but the shoots will be thinner and easier to keep under control...
Just saw your post above, that's ok, I'm sure you'll be fine with it, I don't think you'd need to get anyone in quite honestly...
Last edited: 14 August 2017 22:30:21
14 Aug 2017 22:13
This is very easy to deal with.. I'm in my mid 60's and arthritic but I'd have that done in less than half hour, so I'm sure you could manage it yourself?..
You need some useful tools, which you may not have though. I would saw away some lowest branches so you can mow the grass easier, but I might leave a light branchwork as otherwise you could end up with a lollipop effect tree if you prune away too much. I'm not keen on that with Eucalyptus, but it may not bother you... I would also try and saw off that stump in the middle that's been cut before, and try to reduce it further, it looks a bit ugly...
As for the top, I have an ordinary ladder and an 8 foot long tree pruner, with these I would prune off about 6 to 8 foot off the top of the tree, probably only 3 or 4 cuts to be made looking at the branches, and it's all done in a jiffy there.. this is a job I used to do in Spring every year, as these trees, and you have a Eucalyptus gunii variety, grow at least 6 foot a season, and it's important never to let them get away from you, but it's fine to do it now, don't worry about the weather, just do it...
They are useful trees for blocking out neighbouring buildings very quickly, and I think a bit wasted as lawn specimens, but I used to grow a rambling pink rose up mine, plus I planted dark pink flowering Cistus purpureus around the base, but this is for an adventurous gardener, and that may not be you..
Have fun, and do take care with it.... simple with the right tools... enjoy your gardening ...you have a nice outlook it seems and these are beautiful trees, if kept in check...
11 Aug 2017 11:34
That's ok, no problem with replanting straight away as long as you've well watered it in...
I always plant the graft below soil level too, an inch or two... there is no point pruning or feeding it now at this time, all the rose wants to do is recover from the shock of transplanting, and it needs its top growth, so just give it time to do that.. if it does grow some between now and October, I might tip prune it a little if it's in a very windy position, to prevent windrock during the winter, that's all... otherwise, no.