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marshmello


Latest posts by marshmello

681 to 688 of 688

Need help with tomato plants

Posted: 15/04/2012 at 19:15

...forgot to ask

Which variety of tomato have you choosen to grow, we might be able to help you further.

 I like Alicante, a nice sandwich tomato IMO.

Need help with tomato plants

Posted: 15/04/2012 at 19:11

You mention that your plants grow out of hand and you prune them.

Unless your growing a bush variety, your aiming to grow a single stemmed plant. In what way do you prune them !! I've been growing for many years and not once have I pruned a tomato plant. Do you mean - the removal of a sucker - the shoots that grow in between leaf joints. If these are not removed, then yes, it will grow like a triffid.

Also, when your plant has produced four sets of flowering trusses, pinching or cutting out the growing tip at the top, stops the plant from getting any taller. This tells the plant to concentrate all its energy towards the fruit.

I've just re-read you question. By the way, which type of tomato plant are you trying to grow?!?!

 A cordon, single stem(or indeterminate) tomatoes grow tall (can reach up 2m/6ft) and require staking; bush (or determinate) tomatoes are bushy, and don’t require staking.

You mention your growing determinate/bush in your question, but it seems your trying to grow it like a cordon/ single. Hmmmmm

Ponds for wildlife

Posted: 15/04/2012 at 18:43

haha Daintiness I thought you meant to say that . Only funning with you

Well, if theres nowt wrong with the water in your opinion, why not add some fish. Some beauty fish out there. We used to keep Koi, gold fish, blue and gold orfe, tench, gold carp and we had a ghost koi called Jaws - he was massive, I say he, he could have been a she. LOL

Hmmm, yeah, why not go for one wildlife pond and the other a fish pond. I think its a nice balance having 2 points of interest.

Ponds for wildlife

Posted: 15/04/2012 at 13:48
Daintiness wrote (see)

I think it is the depth that probably attracts them. One metre is probably not deep enough for overwintering frogs as it can freeze completely. With the extra depth in your other pond and a good entry/exit point it would be more favourable to wildlife.


 "One metre is probably not deep enough for overwintering frogs as it can freeze completely" .............Do you live in the Arctic !!!!

The question you ask is a difficult one to answer, but bear this in mind. Wildlife only thrives in conditions that are nigh on correct for their needs.

I don't think frogs, toads or newts really care or understand what the design of a pond is all about. My wildlife pond in the allotment is made from a old bath - straight edges and shallow but the frogs and newts love it, so must feel safe.

Heres food for thought - is the ph of the water in the clay pond correct for instance ?!?! Perhaps they don't like it  !!!!

planting broad beans

Posted: 15/04/2012 at 11:28

You don't mention whether you sow inside or outside.

I find that starting them off in cells/pots the germination results are higher then station sowing. The reason being, temp, water and heat can be controlled better, especially in cooler climates like the UK - this goes for peas also.

I have, in the past, always had more failures than successes when using the station sowing method...

.....not sure if I've helped much !!! !

Veg Patch

Posted: 15/04/2012 at 09:42

Sounds a bit ewwww dont it.

I'm really not sure, but....

....if you have any concerns. How about making some nice looking raised beds on the area. Can you take some soil from another area to fill them or if not, buy some topsoil, perhaps.

strawberries

Posted: 14/04/2012 at 20:01

I have found that the plants only produce good yields for a couple of years, so every 3 yrs I replace with runners, and don't forget to rotate the patch every 3 yrs if possible. 

.....also, in the first year. Don't allow the plants to develop fruit, nip the flowers off and feed with a balanced food fertilizer. By doing this, your encouraging the plant to develop a strong root system. 

In the second year, feed plants with a fruit fertilizer and lay straw around plants, this will protect fruit from contamination with soil,water regularly and net if need be.

Once fruit is finished, compost straw, cut off any died/old leaves as this allows sunlight into the centre, ensuring better crops the following year. Weed and balance feed and lastly, peg down any runners whilst still connected to mother plant.

I bought 12 cold runners online because its a variety ( marshmello) I cannot buy from retail and I'll not get to taste them until next year .  But I do have last years plants .

Green Pond

Posted: 12/04/2012 at 20:19

 Just joined - Hi all

Your problem is you have too much suspended algae, making the water appear to be tinted green or even pea soup like, in appearance. You can’t see anything in your pond but algae. Not very appealing to the eye. Sunlight is the catalyst needed to culture the algae that you see. By limiting the amount of direct sunlight your pond receives, you are eliminating its source, thus reducing the algae bloom significantly.

This is the real first step in getting your ponds algae bloom under control.

Is your pond in direct sunlight ?!?!

Is your balance of pond plants right ?!?! ....deep, oxgenators, marginal etc

and NEVER fill the pond with tapwater unless its first been conditioned. This really does add to the problem. Rainwater is best.

681 to 688 of 688

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Compost, they reckon !!!

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