- I'm Matt, I'm a self employed gardener living in Cheshire, I'm 23 years old and obsessed with gardening and plants, (he says as he's sitting in the living room surrounded by house plants and veg seedlings).
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1 to 11 of 11 posts
14 Nov 2013 19:56
It depends on what the damage looks like, first guess Vine weevil? I have seen these on Rhodies before many a times.
10 Nov 2013 22:21
Hi Johnny Dee, I have a powerful blower / vac of the Orange and white colour combination, and I find that when the leaves are wet or have been down for a while then picking them up with it is neigh on impossible, it soon gets clogged around the blades and intake chute! If the leaves are wet I've learnt to use it to blow them into a pile which can be picked up by hand and bagged for mulch.
Sorry but from what I know most others on the market will struggle with large quantities of wet leaves.
31 Oct 2013 22:28
Instead of plastic carrier bags you could use hessian sacks to hang them up, allows a bit of air movement around them to keep them dry.
Once the Dahlias get to full size they don't get repotted at all. just the top changed, mostly to get rid of weed seed, a good dose or Chicken manure come spring and a decent feeding regime keeps them happy
30 Oct 2013 22:36
I second Wonderboy's suggestion, I have much more success with leaving the Dahlias in the pot, they were cut down at the weekend just gone and put into the frost free shed to wait until spring. Come March I will scrape down the soil to tuber level and replace with fresh. Water sparingly and wait for them to come up, I Always take a spring cutting or two off all of my Dahlias. Take it as low as possible as occasionally you might be lucky and get a bit that has already started rooting.
Nowadays my Dahlia are all grown as specimens in 75 - 100L black tree pots, but when I had them in the ground they were whipped out pre-frost, potted and put in the greenhouse to wait until spring .
Hope this helps
26 Oct 2013 19:09
If you use a good quality Glyphosate based systemic weedkiller, a day or two after spraying, the foliage (and potential flowers) can be strimmed off and removed as the killer is already in the system and working its way around in the roots. I use one called Glyphos, mixed with a little washing up liquid to help it 'stick', spray on the Oxalis and within 5 days they're already wilting and dieing (during the summer months). I think Oxalis succumbs to it quicker than anything else I have to spray. It's just remembering to get rid of those pesky seeds hiding in the soil that makes it a nightmare to get rid of.
Hope this helps.
26 Oct 2013 11:21
When the seeds germinate, and before they set their own seeds, more Glyphosate! When I say regularly I mean regularly, at least fortnightly if needs be, but it soon eradicates it.
25 Oct 2013 21:38
Glyphosate, and lots of it, regularly!
25 Oct 2013 21:33
My experiance of Virginia Creepers is to cut off a bit, any bit, and stick it in the ground and watch it go. I have just rooted a 2 inch wide cutting that was 8 inches long in no time at all. Try hardwood cuttings in November, and some more in March and I'm sure you will get at least 99% take.
25 Oct 2013 21:28
Hi NoviceGardener2, As with any Buddleja it is important to wait until the spring to carry out any heavy pruning. For now, only take off the dead flowers and leave them well alone, come spring prune them as hard as you like, ensuring you prune to a small shoot and dont leave any stems bare of foliage.
Hope this helps.
18 Oct 2013 17:04
Take them all out! You want at least 12" free from rubble, Ideally 16". I know it sounds a lot but it really does show in the vigour of your lawn. There are so many lawns out there covered in huge weak yellow patches which just scream 'RUBBLE' to anyone who looks at them. Unfortunately it's common practice for builders to dump all the waste in the garden and turf it over, but this just never works properly or sort itself out and needs to be dealt with.
You are in a 'Lucky' position where you dont have an established lawn in place, and can take the rubble away before turfing, most people have to put up with it or go to great expense sorting it out. Don't waste your money turfing before you sort it out
With luck the bricks will match those the house is built from, so potentially can be used to build raised beds and other features around the garden.
18 Oct 2013 16:53
With the Hostas stuck in pots, I recommend putting the spade through the middle twice, about 1 -2 inches apart, effectively removing a wedge of hosta, this bit can be potted (or thrown as it's the 'Oldest' part anyway), you'll find that the rest of the hosta comes away with ease afterwards.
I'd also recommend pots that do NOT get narrower around the rim, these are very common, but possibly the worst design for permanent planting. If your pot does get narrower around the rim, use it for annual bedding displays and buy your hosta one that doesn't. .
With regards to leaving the Hosta clumps out of soil, not a problem, provided you put them in a shed or garage, covered with a sheet or piece of carpet to protect from frost and keep them from drying out completely. This is what the nurseries do when dealing with a majority of Herbaceous perennials, including Hostas, it's just not feasable to even consider going on the growing fields during the winter, so they lift them all now and store them until they can split them and pot.