Latest posts by Obelixx


Posted: 04/06/2016 at 12:55

Excellent news Pansyface.

Community spirit along with widespread horticultural knowledge and willingness to help are the core of these boards and that combination is what makes them so attractive compared to other forums out there.

It is exceedingly wet here with more rain due to start in the next couple of hours and set to last all night again.  Not good for sleeping or gardening tho probably good for the garden.   The weeds in the beds I haven't got to yet are certainly having a great time and the hostas are enormous now.  

Busy - have you had floods your way too?   Plenty of basements flooded locally and low roads blocked with silt run off from arable fields where the crops are still to immature to hold the soil.   Good indoor cleaning weather we've been having.

WW - have you a gardening club near you?  I started one here - meets once or twice a month in the growing season - just so I could chat about plants and gardens with people who don't think it's all muck and madness.   Good people and plant swaps too.   Never more than a dozen or so at a time except for a special event so maybe manageable for you.


Climbing plants -can these be planted together?

Posted: 03/06/2016 at 23:50

I agree.  keep it simple.  Plants need food and water to grow well and cramming too many into a planter and making them compete for limited resources will give poor results.

A Safe Aphid Spray Recipe

Posted: 03/06/2016 at 23:48

Anything that kills aphids also kills helpful predators.   If you can stand the smell, then garlic spray deters them - google for recipe.  You can also squish them with your fingertips or blast them witha  spray from a hosepipe.

However, the best thing is to feed the plants with organic products such as pelleted chicken manure of blood fish and bone which help maintain healthy micro-organisms in the soil as well as feeding the plants.   This means your plants will be strong enough to cope with an aphid infestation until the good guys - ladybirds and their larvae, hoverflies and garden birds such as tots and sparrows arrive to hoover up the aphids and maintain a balance.

Pruning a Cornus alba 'Elegantissima'

Posted: 03/06/2016 at 23:41

It should be done in early spring as new foliage buds start to open.  You can either take every stem back to a healthy pair of buds - always leaving a  spare pair below in case of nasty frosts - or you can take out at one third of the oldest, dullest stems each year.   As it's a bit late, I suggest you try doing the latter this year so you get some renewed, fresh colour and then next spring, you can either carry on like that but earlier or go for the full cut, also earlier.

Clematis ID

Posted: 03/06/2016 at 23:31

There is a website linked to Hull university that lists 3700 clematis and has a search facility - http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemlistsearch.cfm 

I suspect it would be easier to send your picture to nurseries such as http://www.taylorsclematis.co.uk/ or http://www.kelways.co.uk/category/clematis/90/ or https://www.thorncroftclematis.co.uk/ or http://www.raymondevisonclematis.com/main/home.asp to see if they recognise it and stock it.

Blind daffodils

Posted: 02/06/2016 at 23:14

Daffodils go "blind" usually because they are starved or over crowded so yes, dig them up if you can and replant at a good depth and with space between each bulb and a generous dollop of pelleted chicken manure or similar and some well rotted garden compost to improve soil texture.  

Water them in well and they should produce flowers next year or the year after - assuming no-one has cut off the foliage before it's had time to replenish the bulbs.  It needs to be left a minumum of 6 weeks and preferably until it has died down naturally.  Never knot it or remove it too early in an attempt to be tidy.

Last edited: 02 June 2016 23:14:34

non flowering Clematis freckles

Posted: 02/06/2016 at 22:55

This clematis produces flowers on growth produced the previous year so you've been happily removing all the flowering potential with all your pruning.

Give it a generous feed of specialist slow release clematis food or rose fertiliser.  Train all new growth as horizontally as possible and wind it back and forth across its support rather than letting it shoot vertically.  This will help it produce more flowers.  Works for climbing roses too by the way.

Do not prune it again this year.  It should flower from next autumn through to spring unless you get a really cold snap which it won't like.   You can trim it after flowering finishes next spring if it needs tidying up and then give it another good feed and it should flower every year if you repeat this regime.

I stand with Pansyface

Posted: 02/06/2016 at 21:51

It's for 48 hours only and there are other ways of being disruptive on a forum that don't involve posts visible to all.   We don't know and don't need to know but, given the way Daniel and the team have coped with and responded to all the many polite posts, strongly expressed complaints and sometimes aggressive diatribes about the forum changes do you really think they would have blocked her without due warning or due cause?

I'm sorry she's been blocked - for whatever reason - and I hope she will return.

I also hope that the forum will soon be more easily accessible to people with visual impairment.

Lastly, I wish PF and her husband all the best and all the courage needed to deal with her illness.

Underperforming rhododendrun

Posted: 02/06/2016 at 21:46

Is it in a pot or in the ground?  I may have been too thirsty last summer and early autumn which is when they set their flower buds for the next display.  It may have been given too much nitrogen feed which promotes leaves but not flowers.  

If yours is otherwise healthy, I suggest you give it a good dollop of slow release rose or tomato food together with a liquid drink of rose or tomato food for an instant tonic and followed by a mulch of ericaceous compost or soil improver formulated for rhodos, azaleas and other ericaceous plants.   Make sure it doesn't get dry in August and September and it should be fine next spring.

Progress update

Posted: 02/06/2016 at 21:33

I think we need to calm down here.  There are other ways to transgress and break forum protocols than on posts we can all see so we don't have, or need, all the details.  The ban is for just 48 hours which seems to me to be a reasonable cooling off period.

We all know the updates to the forum were badly managed but Daniel, Nora and the team have worked very hard to fix things and make it work again.   What many don't realise is that the changes apply to the whole GW site which needs to be accessible on media other than laptops and PCs in order to maintain and increase its audience and generate revenue.   This is a commercial site which we get to use for free.

Given the tone and language in a significant number of posts complaining about the changes Daniel and co have been very forbearing and I don't think they would block someone lightly.   I do hope I'm not wrong about that.

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