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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

moving irises - is it too late?

Posted: 20/09/2013 at 11:24

The usual advice is to move them immediately after flowering finishes but I don't see why you can't do it now while the soil is still warm and there's plenrty of rain to help the roots settle in and some warm sunny days to encourage them.

Make sure you water them well first and then trim the foliage on each section you plant to reduce wind rock which will disturb the roots.  They may not flower brilliantly next year but, by all acouunts, they didn't this year so you've nothing to lose and in a sunnier spot they'll do better in future.  

Windswept

Posted: 20/09/2013 at 09:06

I'm not sure hydrangea petiolaris will cope with windy exposure as it's a woodland plant from Japan and Siberia, so, while it can cope with cold, I suspect strong winds in spring will damage new young shoots.

On the other hand, it will cope very well with the cool, shady side of a north east facing wall so if you can give it plenty of organic matter to retain moisture and stop it drying out it is probably worth a try.

Other than that, I would suggest a group 3 clematis which is pruned back hard in March and then flowers in summer on new season's growth.  Have a look at http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemdetail.cfm?dbkey=30 which has small flowers less likely to be damaged by wind but with good colour.

Another to consider is http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemdetail.cfm?dbkey=365 or maybe http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemdetail.cfm?dbkey=398 or http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemdetail.cfm?dbkey=550 or another small flowerd one with a long flowering period - http://www.clematis.hull.ac.uk/new-clemdetail.cfm?dbkey=3206

All are suitable for semi shade but be aware that clematis can take a couple of years to settle in before they really perform well.  They are also very hungry, thirsty plants so need a deep hole back-filled with plenty of organic matter to feed them and retain moisture for their thick, fleshy roots.  

Clematis need to be planted 4 to 6" deeper than they were in their pot to encourage more shoots to from and protect against clematis wilt.  Make the hole at least 2 feet away from the base of the wall so they don't sit in a rain shadow or dry spot and feed anually with a good mulch of garden compost in spring and a generous handful of clematis offd at pruning time.   A liquid feed of rose or tomato food every couple of weeks from pruning to flowering time will help too and  make sure you have wires or a trellis on battens attached to the wall for it to cling to.

I also find dead heading helps prolong flowering in the first couple of years and then they look after themselves apart from training the new stems out along the supports for maximum coverage.

No flowers on gladioli

Posted: 18/09/2013 at 13:22

I don't really like glads but planted sme in a pot this year after they were left unwanted at a charity plant sale along with one each of purple and white petunias.  They all did well and flowered well and the glads turned out to be a rich, deep purple rather than the gaudy candy shades I dislike.  I shall keep them for next year.

I also planted acidanthus in pots and had lots of flowers but not on every plant.  I suspect they were overcrowded so, once the foliage dies down I shall lift them and separate them and plant them less densely next year.

Both pots had full sun and regular watering and feeding.

Autumn Hanging Baskets

Posted: 18/09/2013 at 11:35

I've just replaced my summer baskets at the front door with deep fuchsia pink hardy cyclamen and silvery white cineraria which picks up the marbling on the cyclamen foliage.   The baskets by the garage doors will be replaced by the fuchisa baskets which have been hanging on teh north side of the house.

These will do well until the first frosts and then I'll plant out the cyclamen to increase my increasing stock in a shletered front bed and take the fuchsias indoors for the winter.  

It's too cold here for winter baskets but I do things like skimmia, euonymous, bronze carex and variegated ivy for the two pots by the front door with some cheery faced violas for extra colour.  I've learned not to try phormiums, pennisetum, heathers, heucheras and so on in pots.   They just die of cold. 

Neighbour's Garden is Damaging our Wall

Posted: 16/09/2013 at 16:06

Inecting higher up would protect the wall above the injection point but not help much with the part below and if you have electrical wires and sockets in that part you'll end up with rusty back parts in your sockets.  We did before getting our walls fixed and had to have some replaced.  Another expense to take into account.

Good luck with the solicitor.  It should help clarify your situation.

Neighbour's Garden is Damaging our Wall

Posted: 16/09/2013 at 15:31

I agree that your neighbour's gardening activities are causing damage and he should be liable a) to remove the nuisance causing the damage and b) pay for repairs caused by his neglect or wilful damage.

A survey should have identified this problem so if you had one, you may have recourse against the surveyor.

As for damp injections, we've just had our entire house injected again after problems with the road outside led to water finding its way up our walls again.  The garage wall has land raised to about 3' high on one side so they simply injected just above that height to protect the rest of the wall and the bedroom above so it is possible to inject from inside and higher than usual.   However, it is a garage wall so no plastering or decoration needed. 

Gardeners world

Posted: 16/09/2013 at 14:09

Alys on her own programme.  Toby never again.

I've just watched GW from Friday and it was seriously dull and uninspiring and rather a waste of 30 precious minutes which could have been devoted to informative, interesting and inspiring items on plants and gardens - what to grow, how to grow, where to grow.  Ditto propagation.

Can't say I'm too disappointed though as I've been thinking this about GW for months.

What does everyone think

Posted: 16/09/2013 at 09:59

It has been done very neatly and tidily with attention to detail so full marks for that.  However, I really dislike the plasticky looking waterfall and the visible pipe at the side but these can be softened in impact by plants which will hide and soften the edges and one to flop over and hide the pipe.

It should bed in in time and look more natural and I hope your parents are pleased with your efforts.

Camellia - yellow leaves

Posted: 15/09/2013 at 17:04

I'm glad they've responded and are looking healthier.  If they're still looking green I'd wait for spring to do the next sequestered iron treatment but I'd also give them a mulch now of soil improver for ericaceous plants and again next spring. 

Japanese anemone problem

Posted: 15/09/2013 at 16:59

The common name for anemones is wind flower.

Mine are subject to strong prevailing westerly winds most if the year with occasional Siberian blasts from the east.  My Japanese anemones do just fine in moist, fertile, alkaline loam on the north side of the house but only the pink ones will grow there.  I have another clump of pink ones doing very well further up in a better drained site with more sun and shelter form the worst of the westerlies.  I'm having one last go at growing the white form in a spot with drainage, sun and shellter from easterlies.

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