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Latest posts by obelixx

Odd corrections?

Posted: 18/02/2015 at 18:56

Nor me.  It happily lets me mis-type words and I don't always notice in time to Edit them afterwards.

idle curiosity.....

Posted: 18/02/2015 at 18:07

Ooh Bookertoo.  Where in Zambia?  My dad left home to go and work there in 1969 - medic for the copper mines.   Had an avocado and a mango tree in the garden.   Luscious.

Ornamental Grass/Sedge help

Posted: 18/02/2015 at 17:08

Spring is the best time to split ornamental grasses.   Give them a good soaking, take them out of their pots and then just divide up with a spade, bread knife or two forks.   Plant the new clumps straight away either in the ground in a ready prepared bed or on pots again.  Unless they are evergreens such as carex, you should now be cutting back all the old, dry top growth to allow the new shoots to come through.

Can't help with the Red Sedge.

idle curiosity.....

Posted: 18/02/2015 at 17:04

You might want to read this thread about sweet potatoes on A4A.,78551.0.html


Anyone done any gardening today?

Posted: 18/02/2015 at 15:07

I have been out to play.   Had a friend yesterday to help me tie in windbreak fabric along the northern fence and have done some hacking - enthusiastic pruning? - of shrubs, clems, hellebores and roses plus taken off lots of dead material on perennials.   Loads left to clear and tidy away and then weeding needs to start as the nettles and buttercups are already growing.

Garden last week at -6C

 Garden this week at +8C

 Still have the woodland corner and pond beds and shady beds and front to do but it's good to have made a start at last.

Rose pruning and frost

Posted: 18/02/2015 at 10:41

Too late for bandages.   Frost expands the cells which can lead to damage in unhealed pruning wounds and introduce die-back or disease.

Cross your fingers, feed the roses and keep an eye on them for a few weeks as any problems won't show immediately.  Then, if they do look damaged at the ends, prune back to healthy outward facing buds when there is no frost forecast.   

Wrong plants sent by mail order

Posted: 16/02/2015 at 23:12

Good advice form Bluebell.   You can also name and shame them on as many garden forums as you can be bothered to find - in the spirit of saving others from a rip off.


Posted: 16/02/2015 at 23:09

I don't think you can do the cuttings till the tubers are producing new shoots so, if you have somewhere relaibly frost free and sunny for them to grow on, start your tubers off soon but don't put them, or any cuttings, outside till some time in May, depending on when your last frosts are likely to occur.

Which Clematis for which wall?

Posted: 16/02/2015 at 23:05

Go for a spin round the Clematis on the Web site and you'll find loads of whites and purples.   Except for Gravetye, Pagoda, Princess Diana and red Ballon all the ones I mentioned are white or purple or lilac or a mix.

I don't grow Armandii as my winters are too cold for evergreen clems to survive so can't help you there.   

Which Clematis for which wall?

Posted: 16/02/2015 at 21:33

I think for a north facing wall or fence you want someting that flowers later in the season when it's warm enough to be out there to enjoy it.   I have Minuet, Caerulea Luxurians, Nelly Moser, Rahvarinne and Blue Angel (Blekitny Athol) on a north facing wall.

Betty Corning has bell shaped flowers and would do well on an east or west facing aspect and is scented.   Other bell shaped clems that would like it are Gravetye Beauty, Pagoda and Princess Diana.    Try also Red Ballon which is always covered in insects in my garden.

A great deal depends on your flower colour and shape preferences.   Just make sure that if you plant more than one clem to cover the same area that they are from the same pruning group or things will get very tangled indeed.

Whatever you choose, give the new clems a good soak befor eplanting and give them a hole at least 4 to 6" deeper than the pot they came in and back fill with plenty of garden compost and/or well rotted manure as clematis are hungry, thirsty plants.  Give them a spring feed of slow release clematis food and a drink of tomato food every now and again betwen bud burst and flowering.

It may seem painful but you should cut new clems back to a couple of buds on each stem at planting time and nurture them as they can take a year or so to get their roots settled in before they flourish up top.  It will be worth it.

Discussions started by obelixx


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1 to 15 of 16 threads