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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 22:15

When were they planted, how deep, and what kind of soil do you have - clay, stony, sandy, well drained, moist, acid or alkaline.

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 17:30

I think maybe you're are being impatient Lola.  If the've only been in one year they haven't really had time to put on lots of growth.  I sugegst you tie or twist in any growth that's long enough so it doesn't get blown about during autumn and winter gales.

Next spring, feed the cleatis with proprietary clematis food which is available in good garden centres and will release nutrients slowly that encourage flowers.  For an instant tonic, give all the plants a dose of liquid rose or tomato fertiliser then stand back and admire but keep an eye on new shoots and train them in as they get long enough.

If you like, you can make a zig-zag frame by winding extra wire up and down at 45° between the horizontal wires so that tieing in is easier but do this now or at least before new growth starts in spring.   I wouldn't use expandable trellis as honeysuckle and clematis montana are all very vigorous and will soon prove too heavy for it.

 

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 10:55

45cms spacing isthe correct distance for training wires but you do actually have to intervene with clematis and honeysuckle and train them along the wires.   Otherwise you end up with a cat's cradle.   Just putting up a mesh won't help and may make it look worse as it'll be more difficult for you to manipulate stems.

If you really must, add extra lines of wire between the ones you already have and then in spring, cut the honeysuckle back so you can train new growtha s you want it.  Leave the clematis till after it has flwoered as this variety flowers on old wood then cut back as much as you need in order to tidy it up.  

Give all of them a good feed in spring when new growth starts and they should do well but remember you need to referee the new growth on a regular basis.

Mint is looking pale and yellow :(

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 10:35

I grow all my mints in large pots to stop them escaping and they're all looking pale and yellow now as they die down before winter.   I have reduced watering and, beacvuse we have hard winteres here, will soon take the pots into shelter for winter with no further watering.

Come the spring they'll be brought outside, all the old shoots will be removed and the pots throroughly watered and then to dressed with some fresh compost.   If tehy're looking very congested they get turfed out and divided an dthen replanted and watered.

New small pond for frogs/toads

Posted: 18/10/2014 at 09:15

I have quite a large gardenand a large pond dug for drainage.  It has lots of frogs and toads and even visiting duck and resident hedgehogs but I still have a slug problem.

I suggest you switch to wildlife friendly slug pellets which don't leave slimy messes and corpses all over the place.  I start sprinkling thinly on Valentine's Day around susceptible plants such as hostas, clematis and hemerocallis and repeat thins catterings each wek throughout teh spring and early summer.  

This means you get them as they emerge form hibernation or hatch from eggs and before they can feed or breed.   I don't do blanket scatterings as some slugs are essential for recycling decaying matter but I don't want the ones that eat my treasures to get the upper hand.

 

 

replanting strawberries

Posted: 17/10/2014 at 17:46

I agree.  It's warm enough still for them to get their roots established.  Strawberries benefit from a frosting to provoke flowers and fruits and will produce them earlier if they've had tme to settle in.

Moving clematis

Posted: 16/10/2014 at 22:11

There's also layering which is suppsoe dto be eaiser but you"d need patience.   Could try one or two now probably.

Moving clematis

Posted: 16/10/2014 at 06:52

I ouldn't move anything while it's in flower and I think you'll find the roots of a clematis go really deep so you'll have difficulty digging them all out and successfully transplanting it.

However, if you really must move it, cut the stems back to leave just 3 or 4 feet on each with some foliage.   Water the roots well and leave to saok for an hour then dig out as much of the root ball as you can.  Be prepared to go a couple of feet deep at least and quite wide.   Then take it to its new home which you should have prepared well in advance with a planting hole a bit deeper and plenty of good compost to feed and encurage new root formation.   Water thoroughly and give it plenty of feed next spring.

How old is your houseplant?

Posted: 15/10/2014 at 16:58

Multi stemmed rubber plant inherited from a colleague at work who died young in 1979 or 80 so it will have been several years old already.

Planting up my grandmother's abandoned grave

Posted: 15/10/2014 at 14:20

 Rosemary isn't that hardy in cold parts of the country.  I would suggest geranium macrorhizum for ground cover.  Scented foliage, white, pink or deep pink flowers in late spring and the foliage turns red in winter.    Bulbs will come through with no bother and their dying foliage will be hidden by it.

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