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Latest posts by obelixx

Is it just me?!

Posted: 03/06/2015 at 13:09

If a plant is horrid I don't have a problem getting rid.  If it's ill or damaged I will try and revive it with appropriate pruning and feeding and I have been known to give notice to non performing plants - buck up or out - and they often respond well.

However I do try and find homes for good doers that cope with my garden conditions and especially if they're good for insects like my phaeums which flower early and attract bees.   Can't bring myself to bin excess hostas either and I have rather a lot of those in pots waiting to be found a home along with another plastic sheet full of filipendula which will go out by the pond once I've cleared that bed of weeds and over exhuberant flag iris.   The cows next door enjoy eating those..

Flowers for March

Posted: 03/06/2015 at 12:13

Violas and pansies, anemone blanda, white daffodils, early tulips maybe.   

The daffs and tulips can be sourced in garden centres from August onwards and need to be planted at 3 times their depth in the pots.  You can then plant the violas and pansies over them when they appear in the shops in the autumn.   Keep them sheltered from heavy frosts so the bulbs don't freeze to a mush.

Another alternative would be to plant the bulbs in individual or group pots which you keep in the garage until shoots start to show in late winter/early spring and then bring into the light to grow on.   You can then plant up your larger terracotta pots just before the wedding with the best specimens.

If you're planning small terracotta pots on the tables then I'd stick to using whatever's around at your local nursery or garden centre.  You may be able to pre-order enough plugs of white pansies or violas to pot up a week or two before the wedding and have looking good on the day.   They have cheery little faces and are often perfumed.



plant id please

Posted: 03/06/2015 at 10:52

There is a white version called lysmachia clethroides alba or gooseneck because of the shape of the flower heads.   I love this one.   Not keen on the yellow one as it's a bit brash so I hide that away in difficult corners as ground cover.

Clematis President

Posted: 03/06/2015 at 10:49

Plants in pots need more than rain to keep them looking good and all this wind really strips the moisture out of their foliage and flowers so they need extra watering in pots to replenish that.

It should be fed generously in March with a slow release specialist clematis or rose feed and then given occasional liquid feeds of rose or tomato food up until mid July between regular watering which should continue till leaf drop in the autumn.   In hot spells that means watering every day.

Is it just me?!

Posted: 03/06/2015 at 10:43

I have about 2 square metres of over enthusiastic geranium phaeum I cleared out of two beds I have revamped this spring.   They are parked on a tarpaulin sheet where I would normally have a table and chairs because I can't bring myself just to bin them all.   Maybe I'll find someone who would like some and maybe there'll be space to put some in when I clear the next bed along.........

Meanwhile I keep them watered and talked to and they're doing fine and flowering and are full of bees.   It's a good job I kept them as some turned out to have white flowers and are now potted up and being nurtured.

clematis in containers

Posted: 02/06/2015 at 09:07

Like I said - fine if the container is big enough and they get fed properly.   Most composts only have fertiliser for 90 to 100 days.    I now start off my new clems in containers for the first year or two and then plant them out.   I find they can then cope better with all the competition in the borders and I can move them to shelter if the winter is a bit naughty.

I don't grow any evergreen ones as winters here are definitely too severe so you'll have to use your local knowledge to decide about bubble wrap.

clematis in containers

Posted: 01/06/2015 at 22:55

Clematis roots are thick and fleshy and like deep, cool root runs.  It is always recommended that they be planted at least 4" deeper than they were in their pot as this encourages them to form extra shoots and increase flower power.   Your pot will need to be at least 60cms wide and deep and preferably deeper if your clematis is to stay there more than a couple of years.  

Clematis are gross feeders so you will need a very good compost to which you will have to add extra slow release food for clematis or roses every spring as well as regular watering and occasional liquid feeds throughout the growing season.

Clematis cirrhosa is hardy down to -5C and armandii will cope down to -10C but neither will like having frozen roots so, depending on how cold your winters are, you may get away with just protecting the pot with external bubble wrap well ahead of any cold spell.

Blooming calendar

Posted: 01/06/2015 at 09:55

Have you tried google?   I found this - which is a good place to start.  They have a list for every month.

Epsom salt

Posted: 01/06/2015 at 08:11

Tootles - they originated from a spring in Epsom, hence the name.   Mix of magnesium and sulphur and oxygen apparently.

Infested Tree?

Posted: 31/05/2015 at 19:56

They are aphids I think.   Leave them alone and the birds will come and hover them up for their young and with any luck the ladybirds and hover flies will come and eat them too.

Try hanging some peanut or fat ball feeders near the tree to encourage the birds to investigate..

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1 to 15 of 17 threads