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Latest posts by obelixx

What is this pine bush/shrub?

Posted: 23/07/2014 at 08:20

It looks likeone of the dwarf junipers but it doesn't really matter.   Conifers can be pruned or trimmed from spring to late summer to keep them tidy and to size.   I suggest you do a light trim now and then again next spring, after the worst frosts, and then again next summer if you need to.

Be careful not to cut back into brown wood as it will not grow new leaves.   With regular, light trims you can keep it to its current size.    Feed it with a general fertiliser such as bllod, fish and bone or pelleted chicken manure each spring to keep its growth healthy.

Gardening by the Moon

Posted: 22/07/2014 at 18:47

It's working for me, thanks.  On the 17th and 18th OH cleared the old strawberry patch and I worked in some compost.   Planted plugs of assorted kale, Savoys and red cabbages and oak leaf lettuce and they are already romping away.  On the 20th I planted a new strawberry patch in a newly cleared and generously composted patch and they're happy as Larry too.

scarifying rake

Posted: 22/07/2014 at 05:56

Our rake is the spring tined attachment to the Wolf system - - which means you choose your own handle length - hand work, medium or long.

You can also get a selection of hoeing heads, rakes, cultivators and so forth.

Hawthorn Hedge

Posted: 21/07/2014 at 13:34

Don't feed it now as that will encourage soft, sappy growth that will be frozen by the frosts and encourage disease in tthe damaged parts.   You could give it some bonemeal in autumn as that encourages root formation over the winter and that will give you better growth next spring.

surprise surprise

Posted: 20/07/2014 at 15:35

Live caterpillar waving at me from a salad at a roadise pizzeria in Oz.  They said the salad was fresh from tehir dad's veggie plot and he mustn't have washed it properly.  Would I like a replacement.  No thanks.

Possum is very suspicious of home grown broccoli as, on the rare occasions when tehre is some extra protein in it, she always gets the steamed caterpillar.   She's gon eoff home grown soft fruit for the same reason and won't even go and pick it now a-as there may be spiders or other creepy crawlies in there.  No sign of her being remotely interested in gardening then.

Perennials Taking Over

Posted: 20/07/2014 at 10:39

Jap3 - you are not that far from Busy-Lizzie.  You should think about putting yourself on the map.

Just need to find the thread now.................

Perennials Taking Over

Posted: 20/07/2014 at 07:14

Phlomis is tough as old boots and will stay evergreen in winter unless you get prolonged heavy frosts or snow.    You can safely pull it up or cut it back now.   I have a huge clump of this which is half the size of what it was at the start of the year because you can have too much of a good thing.  It spreads by wandering roots and seeds and is very happy here in central Belgium where winters can be severe.

Similarly, my echinops are a bit too happy and self seed with gay abandon so just dig up or pull up what you don't want.   You may need to provide support for the remaining plants as it tends to flop after rain or a bit of wind.

I loathe euphorbia - unattractive forms and colours and nasty sap IMHO - so can't help with those.

Leave the seed heads on the plants you do keep as they provide food for the birds and the phlomis look particularly attractive when frosted in winter.



Posted: 18/07/2014 at 18:22

It depends on the hydrangea.  The lace caps, mop heads and quercifolias do flower on last year's growth so can be pruned immediately after flowering to keep them to size and shape.    They can damaged by harsh winters which will kill the potential flowering stems.

The paniculatas flower on this year's growth so can be cut back in spring to encourage new shoots to form.   These are great plants for those of us with hard winters.

All hydrangeas like moist soil - the clue is in the name hydra meaning water - and some prefer dappled shade but others can cope with full sun.


Posted: 18/07/2014 at 18:16

I lkie this grass but it doesn't cope with cold winters.   Miscanthus, molinia, hakonechloa and carex do well but this, fescues, stipas and penisetums are just too nesh.


Posted: 18/07/2014 at 15:54

Assuming you are moving it to the ground, the one in the pot can be moved at any time as long as it is well watered first to ensure the root ball is thoroughly moistened.   You'll need to keep it watered till the autumn rains start to ensure it doesn't go thirsty while it's growing new roots into the surrounding soil.

If you want to move it to a bigger pot that can also be done now and, again, it needs plenty of water and you will have to provide nutrients with good quality compost and top ups of fertiliser every spring.

For the one in the ground, like any shrub, it is best moved in autumn once it has dropped its leaves and gone dormant.   The soil will still be warm enough for it to grow new roots over the winter and produce a good display next spring and summer.  As before, water well before and after planting.


Discussions started by obelixx


Horticultural Retail Therapy 
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Horticultural Retail Therapy 
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Phuopsis stylosa aka Crosswort

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Lawn care after moles

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Plant id for Obxx

Who knows what this is please? 
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GW 2015

Programme content discussion 
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Chelsea photos

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Hello Jro - and any other old friends

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Mare's tail

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Encouraging bats in our gardens

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Beechgrove this weekend

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Last Post: 12/04/2013 at 11:05

Weekend 22 March

Chat about plans for the weekend 
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Last Post: 24/03/2013 at 18:19

Good Morning - 21 March

Replies: 33    Views: 2083
Last Post: 22/03/2013 at 09:57

Choosing chillies

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Hanging baskets and window boxes

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Last Post: 03/03/2013 at 18:12
1 to 15 of 16 threads