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Latest posts by obelixx

nettle fertilizer

Posted: 07/03/2015 at 09:30

Yes.  Just make sure you make it with rain water and not tap water which may contain calcium and chemicals from the treatment plant.

nettle fertilizer

Posted: 06/03/2015 at 11:59

Nettles absorb lots of nutrients from the soil which you can then use to make a liquid fertiliser for general use or as a tonic for special plants according to how much you have available.

It takes 2 to 3 weeks to make the nettle "soup" before it's ready to dilute and use and it gets smelly so tuck the bucket away in a quiet corner of teh garden and keep a lid on it.    The process and uses are well described here - 

Willow Trees

Posted: 05/03/2015 at 15:31

We have a boggy paddock across the road and one boundary is stream lined with the usual marsh and willows that are pollarded every couple of years.  Not attractive but they do a job - except when they have no leaves as they are dormant and the paddocks get flooded after the slightest bit of rain.

You need to think about a different solution to your problem and I would suggest maybe excavating a deep, unlined pond to take the excess water.    We have done this in our garden which was once cow pasture and is bordered by another boggy pasture.  It works a treat for us and allows us to grow a host of marginal plants around it that actually like the wet conditions.   You just need to make sure it doesn't get invaded by terra forming plants like bulrushes and flag irises.  It would be worth paying a gardener to come in and clean any of those out once a year.

Something's been eating my bulbs

Posted: 05/03/2015 at 15:24

Rats, mice, squirrels are the most likely culprits.

Willow Trees

Posted: 05/03/2015 at 12:23

I wouldn't buy any tree already that tall.  Smaller ones are cheaper and easier to plant and get established far more quickly so catch up within a couple of seasons.


Anyone done any gardening today?

Posted: 04/03/2015 at 23:21

I went out to carry on pruning clems but the northerly wind was so bitter I retreated back indoors and did dance club admin.   Sowed lots of leafy stuff yesterday and hope to sow toms and chillies indoors tomorrow but will save pruning the rest of the clems and roses till that wind dies or changes direction to something a bit more friendly.


Posted: 04/03/2015 at 23:05

I don't pinch mine out either but group 2s and 3s get a good prune after winter, any time between now and the end of March for me depending on how long winter lasts.   I cut them down to the ground or to a low pair of buds depending on which they are as some are more vigorous than others.  

Then, as Bookertoo says, they need a very good feed as they are hungry, thirsty plants.   I give mine slow release clematis food after pruning and a liquid feed of rose or tomato food as an instant tonic.   A light scattering of wildlife friendly slug pellets helps too as the blighters love the new shoots.

what colour pergola

Posted: 04/03/2015 at 17:12

I have erected arches and trellis and posts of treated wood and not stained them.  They are still good after 15 years though two panels need repairs after strong winds this winter and life in a very exposed garden.

Do a test patch with the teak oil as it will waterproof the wood and then let it fade naturally and your wisteria can live in peace.

what colour pergola

Posted: 04/03/2015 at 12:36

Just oil it with teak oil.   That will be cheaper than stain and will enrich the colour of the wood whilst protecting it.  You can put it on with a brush and leave it to soak in and dry for a while.  Do a second feed after a couple of weeks or so and then plant up.   It will fade naturally over the years but stay sound.

here i am again

Posted: 04/03/2015 at 11:59

Patience!  Grass isn't going to improve over the winter months but at least the scarifying and autumn treatment will help it not get worse.

Grass starts growing again when temps get to 8C so wait another month to sow new seeds when it will be warm enough for them to germinate and grow.  Until then, keep the grass cut to about 2" when it does start growing so there is enough leaf to feed the roots and make them stronger.

As the grass thickens up in the warmer weather you can cut it down to 1.5" which will help it deal with drought in dry spells.  Any shorter and you will leave it weak and open to competition from weeds and moss.   Spring and autumn scarifying should be done before sowing any new seed.

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1 to 15 of 17 threads