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Latest posts by obelixx

Harvesting Squash

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 16:05

I'd say leave it to grow on but it'll need plenty of watering and maybe a bit of feeding too.

Generally speaking, squash require a gerat deal of space and light and plenty of moisture and food to grow well so are better off grown outside in the ground or on a compost heap where they'll get pollinated by passing insects.

water edging plants

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 16:02

Hemerocallis associate well with hostas and like life near water.  They're not expensive and soon bulk up so can be divided to create more plants.  Astilbes also like moist soil.  I have a purple/lilac flowered one which is spreading very happily ina damp bed and have recently planted some white forms near our own unlined pond.

Forms of gunnera (not all as huge as mannicata) like damp soil as do eupatorium, lysimachia Firecracker and Vesuvius, hydrangeas, miscanthus zebrinus, assorted irises (check for marginal pond varieties), iris sibirica, forms of salix with colourful stems that you cut back in spring to keep the stem colour, rodgersias, acteas, aruncus, dicentras and so on.

What's eating my beans, fennel...and well everything now!

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 14:17

There are several beasties that cut holes or chunks in leaves.  OK when it' s leaf cutter bees but not when it's vine weevil adults as that means their offspring are probably chewing through the roots.  May be worth fossicking in the soil to see if tehy're present and then either picking them out or treating with nematodes before they work their way through the garden.

Slugs burrow in the soil or under leaves and stones by day and snails are pretty clever at hiding so you may simply be not seeing them.

Digging in the Wet

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 13:13

Yes, digging wet soil is not good.  Your energy would be much better spent doing other garden maintenance like fixing fences, washing pots, clearing rubbish or sitting in the dry poring over seed catalogues..........

no blueberries

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 12:07

I have self fertile blueberry (variety name lost) which fruited muchbetter after I bought it a friend.  They both spent a few years in pots before I planted them out in the veg plot.  I dug big holes about 70cm deep and wide and filled them with ericaceous compost and they've been very happy apart form suffering badly in a couple of nasty winters.

This year we had very few fruits but we had a frost when they were in blossom and that's always bad news.  Maybe yours had the same problem.

This year I have given them a mulch of ericaceous compost, added two British bilberries to the same bed, fed all with slow release ericaceous food and done a final mulch of chipped bark.  They've all put on good growth and look very healthy so I'm hoping for good crops next year.  I shall be erecting a protective cage of fleece round all 4 plants to help keep off winter winds and frosts.  Fingers crossed I get no more severe damage.



What's eating my beans, fennel...and well everything now!

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 11:47

Sorry, should have said she'd need to pick everything first and then destroy the evil munchers.

What's eating my beans, fennel...and well everything now!

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 08:27

Get some Provado treatment for vine weevil.  The adults eat leaves and the grubs eat roots.  If you pull up one of your plants and find curved, white maggot like creatures, they are vine weevils and need killing off before they infest your garden.  You can also collect the grubs and put them on a tray for the birds to eat.

Robinia Frisia - brown spotted leaves - treatment?

Posted: 03/09/2012 at 08:24

No, I think they have enough samples already sent in and from their own plants to continue research.   Other than that we have to hope for a drier summer next year.  Two cool, wet summers in a row are clearly playing havoc with many plants, not just robinia.

Talkback: Creeping buttercup

Posted: 02/09/2012 at 16:14
I don't like that particular shade of yellow and find them not at all pretty. They flower en mass in our paddock across the road and persistently reappear in my borders no matter what i do.

When we first created the garden from cow pasture we put down black plastic for 2 years to kill off the weeds - buttercup, nettles, thistles, docks and other delights but still they keep coming back. I'm happy to leave some nettles for butterflies to lay eggs but creeping buttercups are neither use nor ornament as far as I can tell and are a real pest which spoil the look of my chosen plants which are more attractive and provide nectar and pollen so are better for insects.

What plant will grow under a willow tree

Posted: 02/09/2012 at 15:37

You'd need to keep the hanging branches trimmed to at least head height in order to let in sufficient light for anything that's of interest after the spring bulbs.  You could try adding snake's head fritillaries to the bulbs as they like damp meadow conditions.

You could try variegated forms of ajuga reptans and pachysandra to give ground cover with some creamy highlights and also variegated vinca major.  This and the ajuga will give blue flowers and the pachysandra has white flowers.  Another plant worth a try would be pulmonaria which has spotted or silvered leaves depending on variety and white, pink or blue flowers - again depending on variety.   All of these will flower in spring or early summer but will give evergreen foliage interest, especially if you cut back the pulmonaria once flowering finishes so it produces new leaves.

A friend of mine puts tubs of busy lizzies under her tree as they appreciate the shade in summer.   This could be a plan to extend floral interest through the summer.

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10 threads returned