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Latest posts by obelixx


Posted: 25/08/2013 at 09:07

I agree.  Just remove, or tie in stems that are in the way of the gate and train all others away from it.   Newt spring when new growth starts, train it in the direction you want it to go, away from the gate.  You have time bteween now and then to provide it with extra framework to support it if needed.

Moving a clematis 3' is pointless and success cannot be guaranteed as they have such deep, fleshy roots and are hard to dig out without doing serious damage.


Posted: 24/08/2013 at 15:49

I don't know as Ii've never used it but it's worth a try. Just make sure the pots are good and damp first as putiing food enriched water in dry pots can burn the roots and inflict further damage.


Posted: 24/08/2013 at 15:47

It depends on your hydrangea.  The mopheads and lace caps flower on last year's new  wood so mine never flowered as they were always frozen solid and just produced new stems and foliage each year.

Now I grow the paniculata types which flower later on new season's wood and I get a great display.

Remember also that hydrangeas like a lot of water and don't perform well if kept dry..


Posted: 24/08/2013 at 15:07

It has been very hot this summer and clematis like their thick, fleshy roots deep and cool so maybe they've just been too baked and too thirsty.

Try giving them a really good soak until you're sure the compost is damp all the way through and then give them a feed of liquid tomato food to try and perk them up.  Next spring, feed them with specialist clematis food and make sure they have enough to drink all through the growing season.

Large-scale weed clearing!

Posted: 24/08/2013 at 10:26

Totavating live weeds just makes so many more root cuttings that proliferate the problem.  You really need to apply a systemic weedkiller that kills them down to their roots before doing any digging or rotavating.

To make it easier, you can strim off the main plant growth then wait a week or so for new foliage to appear and spray that with a glyphosate based weedkiller.  It will work very well on healthy new growth but you may need two or three applications for persistent weeds.  It takes 2 weeks to work and you need 6 hours of dry weather after application for it to be absorbed and have a chance to be effective.


Posted: 23/08/2013 at 15:09

Hi Spurbear.  It shoud be fine with the seasonal pruning following the two RHS guides.  If that doesn't work, the root pruning suggested by Waterbutts is easy enough but may be hard work. 

Another tip is to clear any vegetation from the base of the trunk in a circle about a metre wide as grass and other plants compete for water and nutrients.    Once clear, you can mulch it with gravel or compost or chipped bark to keep it clear and looking good.


Posted: 22/08/2013 at 15:33

Personally, I think bark ringing is for someone with a decent level of expertise and understanding about trees and their growth and is for extreme circumstances too when all else has failed.  This is most likely just a case of a tree which will probably respond very well to the appropriate, and much simpler, pruning regime to psur it into production again.


Posted: 22/08/2013 at 15:29

laurel want too much space and like to grow wide as well as high.   Yew is poisonous so you have to be careful with any clippings and make sur eany small people in your family don't eat the berries but it does make a lovely hedge which is easy to shape and can be trimmed back hard if needs be. 

Hawthorn will grow at about 6' a year - mine does - so is another possibility.  Keeping it trimmed back will encourage it to thicken and grow high and is also wildlife friendly though not evergreen.  The pyracantha will eventually thicken up too if trained and pruned appropriately.



Posted: 22/08/2013 at 13:58

I have bought plug plants which are growing well but have poor germination in my direct seed sown beets so I shall be sowing some more in modules the first week of September as I'm away next week and then cossetting them and planting out under cloches if necessary. 

OH and I love fresh beets cooked with onions, tomatoes, cumina nd chilli (Madhur Jaffrey) or baked with butter beans and horseradish or roast whole with garlic and thyme.  Yum.


Posted: 22/08/2013 at 11:55

In my experience laurel is a thug and the more it's pruned to size the more it wants to grow outsize.  It's also very dark and dull, especially on grey days.

Those box plants will provide a decent hedge in three years if you remove the grass and feed them as suggested above.  Box is also easy to maintain and trim whereas laurel looks a mes sif done with power trimmers as its larger leave sget shredded and turn brown at the edge.   

To encourage fatser growth, you can give them a good thick mulch of well rotted garden comost (or bought) this autumn and then feed them pelleted chicken manure or blood fish and bone next spring and give them a liquid tonic of seaweed too.  trim the fornt and back sides of the box but not the tops or facing sides around Derby day to encorage vertical and lateral growth to fill up the hedge.

Photinia would be a good alternative if you're really impatient but you'll need to wait till autumn to plant new shrubs and will have to do a lot of work to improve the soil to give them a good start as a hedge is a long term investment in future growth.  It will also cost a fair few quid to buy enough to replace all that box but, if you're clever, you could save the box by digging it all up carefully - in autumn and after a good watering - and potting them then selling them on E-bay or via a local gardening club.

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