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Latest posts by obelixx

Hawthorn Hedge

Posted: 21/07/2014 at 13:34

Don't feed it now as that will encourage soft, sappy growth that will be frozen by the frosts and encourage disease in tthe damaged parts.   You could give it some bonemeal in autumn as that encourages root formation over the winter and that will give you better growth next spring.

surprise surprise

Posted: 20/07/2014 at 15:35

Live caterpillar waving at me from a salad at a roadise pizzeria in Oz.  They said the salad was fresh from tehir dad's veggie plot and he mustn't have washed it properly.  Would I like a replacement.  No thanks.

Possum is very suspicious of home grown broccoli as, on the rare occasions when tehre is some extra protein in it, she always gets the steamed caterpillar.   She's gon eoff home grown soft fruit for the same reason and won't even go and pick it now a-as there may be spiders or other creepy crawlies in there.  No sign of her being remotely interested in gardening then.

Perennials Taking Over

Posted: 20/07/2014 at 10:39

Jap3 - you are not that far from Busy-Lizzie.  You should think about putting yourself on the map.

Just need to find the thread now.................

Perennials Taking Over

Posted: 20/07/2014 at 07:14

Phlomis is tough as old boots and will stay evergreen in winter unless you get prolonged heavy frosts or snow.    You can safely pull it up or cut it back now.   I have a huge clump of this which is half the size of what it was at the start of the year because you can have too much of a good thing.  It spreads by wandering roots and seeds and is very happy here in central Belgium where winters can be severe.

Similarly, my echinops are a bit too happy and self seed with gay abandon so just dig up or pull up what you don't want.   You may need to provide support for the remaining plants as it tends to flop after rain or a bit of wind.

I loathe euphorbia - unattractive forms and colours and nasty sap IMHO - so can't help with those.

Leave the seed heads on the plants you do keep as they provide food for the birds and the phlomis look particularly attractive when frosted in winter.



Posted: 18/07/2014 at 18:22

It depends on the hydrangea.  The lace caps, mop heads and quercifolias do flower on last year's growth so can be pruned immediately after flowering to keep them to size and shape.    They can damaged by harsh winters which will kill the potential flowering stems.

The paniculatas flower on this year's growth so can be cut back in spring to encourage new shoots to form.   These are great plants for those of us with hard winters.

All hydrangeas like moist soil - the clue is in the name hydra meaning water - and some prefer dappled shade but others can cope with full sun.


Posted: 18/07/2014 at 18:16

I lkie this grass but it doesn't cope with cold winters.   Miscanthus, molinia, hakonechloa and carex do well but this, fescues, stipas and penisetums are just too nesh.


Posted: 18/07/2014 at 15:54

Assuming you are moving it to the ground, the one in the pot can be moved at any time as long as it is well watered first to ensure the root ball is thoroughly moistened.   You'll need to keep it watered till the autumn rains start to ensure it doesn't go thirsty while it's growing new roots into the surrounding soil.

If you want to move it to a bigger pot that can also be done now and, again, it needs plenty of water and you will have to provide nutrients with good quality compost and top ups of fertiliser every spring.

For the one in the ground, like any shrub, it is best moved in autumn once it has dropped its leaves and gone dormant.   The soil will still be warm enough for it to grow new roots over the winter and produce a good display next spring and summer.  As before, water well before and after planting.


What goes with what?

Posted: 18/07/2014 at 09:17

I love pink in the garden and have just planted up a whole section of border with shades of pink from pale to deep fuchsia to flower from spring to late summer.   It can sometimes need clear whites or purple shades to set it off and relieve the sugariness and a lot depends on foliage colour and textures too.

However, the idea of gold or lime green is good and would be more modern.  If you have the space, try a shrub such as choisya ternata Sundance whose foliage is evergreen and golden/lime green and which would be happy in shade.   Alternatively, a big fat hosta Sum and Substance would be great but would die back in winter.    Astilboides likes shade and woud give large round, fancy edged leaves and tall, elegant plumes of masses of tiny, white flowers

For a lower plant for front of border, try which sways beautifully in a breeze and likes a shady spot.  Its stems are a pinky purple too so woud pick up with the pinks in your border.  It turns straw coloured in winter and just needs cutting back in spring and given a bit of a feed.   Another possibility would be hosta Gold Edger.

Japanese Anemone not happy

Posted: 17/07/2014 at 17:26

JOss's will have had time to get their roots down so they can cope with dryness but if happyC's is a recent planting it won't be so settled and will need extra moisture till it does get established. 

I find this white form much harder than the pink and purpley forms to grow well and have just planted my last attempt at getting them established here in good, fertile soil which is well drained but doesn't dry out and with shelter from the worst of the wind.   We'll see.

Talkback: Magnesium deficiency

Posted: 17/07/2014 at 17:20

Pharmacies and good supermarkets in their medicines section.

However if the tree is already dead, it won't help.

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10 threads returned