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Latest posts by obelixx

Climbing plants or clematis for pot and obelisk

Posted: 22/04/2014 at 12:15

My Arabella is lilac/mauve and is supposed to get to 2 metres - but I find that with each successive year it gts a bit bigger and produces more and more flowering stems that sprawl about as it is not self clinging.  I love it and it does flower for a long time.   It's also very hardy and copes with seriously cold winters.  Mine is planted in good soil in a hot, sunny bed and scrambles happily through a purple leaved cotinus.




Climbing plants or clematis for pot and obelisk

Posted: 22/04/2014 at 10:33

No.  Just make sure you get the planting soil and depth right and keep them watered and fed regularly.   Never let them dry out but don't let them sit in a puddle either.   Expect them to take a year or so to settle in and start really performing well.

Climbing plants or clematis for pot and obelisk

Posted: 22/04/2014 at 09:22

Montanas are beautiful for a couple of weeks in spring but tend to need a whole house or lots of trellis or a long pergola as they are so vigorous.   There are smaller clems with a longer flowering period that will be far better suited to obelisks.

Climbing plants or clematis for pot and obelisk

Posted: 21/04/2014 at 17:12

The evergreen clems tend to flower in winter or early spring and then look dull the rest of the year so need to be planted as a backdrop to other plants that carry on the display the rest of the year.

Clematis are hungry and thirsty plants with lots of thick, fleshy roots so your pots will need to be deep enought to let their roots grow and have access to plenty of food and water which will mean frequent waterings and feeding over the growing season.

Have a look at this site and research flower colours, flowering periods and also a suitable height for your obelisks.

Bolting rubarb

Posted: 21/04/2014 at 09:29

Just cut off all the flowering stems as and when they appear.  Water well and give them a liquid feed as a tonic.  Mulch generously with some good garden comost or well rotted manure after the plants have had a good soaking.   Give them another good mulch in autumn when the crowns have died down.


Posted: 20/04/2014 at 22:46

I garden organically too but I have such persistent weeds creeping in or blown in from surounding arable land and pastures I use glyphosate to clear the paths and major infestations each spring.   However I deeply disapprove of Monsanto so nver use  Roundup.  There are other, cheaper glyphosate based weedkillers out there that do the job.

As No Expert says, why not use it on an area to get you started and maybe put down newspaper, cardboard or black polythene on the rest of your allotment so it'll be ready for you to work later on.   Then you can work at a sensible pace without being overwhelmed.


Red ants

Posted: 20/04/2014 at 17:54

If you don't want to be cruel, water the nest with a solution of one small bottle of essential oïl of cloves (paharmacies and health shops) mixed into 10 litres of water.  The ants hate the smell and will move somewhere else. 

Rhubarb Crumble

Posted: 20/04/2014 at 17:50

OH would have cream and ice cream if I let him.  I like either as long as it's real dairy ice cream and I also like real vanilla custard.

Just for a change I made rhubarb and strawberry cobbler this weekend and it's luscious.

Roses for posts & rope swags

Posted: 19/04/2014 at 13:58

For swags you need the more flexible stems of ramblers which are usually not repeat flowerers.  I have Malvern Hills from David Austin which is one of the rare repeaters and they also reckon Snow Goose is good -

This one by Peter Beales looks good and would contrast well with the other two -

Wooden Pergola

Posted: 19/04/2014 at 12:48

Honeysuckle very quickly gets shabby looking between the ground and the top of its supports as it puts all its energy into flowering at the top.    It's good for scrambling into trees and other rustic supports but I don't think it sits well with a pergola.  It is entirely your choice of course but I'd go for something that will perform well lower down the stems and not just at neck craning height and that can be kept in shape by gnetle pruning rather than major hacking which you honeysuckle will eventually need.

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