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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

Chilli Seed Swap

Posted: 09/07/2014 at 13:34

I am growing Hungarian Black, Bulgarian Carrot, Spanish Padron and Basket of Fire.   They're all a bit slow after being battered to bits by a hail storm during Chelsea week but, when they do get as far as flowering and fruiting, I'll be happy to save seeds for swapping.   I'm not interested in macho volcanic varieties though as I like to taste my food and not have my palate anaesthetised.

Another plant ID

Posted: 09/07/2014 at 12:41

My variegated erysimum has purple and orange flowers but th eleaves are narrower.  It's been flowering its socks off for months now so I'll be taking cuttings soon just in case it wears itself out.

Help with identifying plant

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 19:15

Oleander?

Echinacea Pink Double Delight

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 14:37

That breeder's rights rule applies to propagation for sale, not to private gardeners increasing their own stock.    The best time to divide plants is either autumn or spring so wait a bit.

My winters usually get to -25C though I have had -32C.  It's usually the winter wet that kills plants rather than the cold and a blanket of snow is also better than getting that cold with no protective covering.    Echinaceas are American prairie plants.    A wet Belgian winter is more damaging than a cold, dry or snow covered prairie winter.

Echinacea Pink Double Delight

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 13:17

Chipped bark.   I use it on some paths in the far "woodland" corner of my garden. and have used it on beds too but it's breaking down now and has been incorporated into the soil.

Lots of birds too but they don't eat the slugs.

Echinacea Pink Double Delight

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 12:18

It depends where you are.  I rarely get echinacea that survive the usual winters here in the rural centre and also find them a favourite meal for slugs.   This last winter being so mild means I do have a few that have coped but they then were battered by the hail storm at the end of May and are taking their time to recover so it seems I can't win either way.

ID for large flowering plant, please.

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 11:15

Its common name is Stonecrop.   If it's leaves turn reddish in winter it is probably sedum sexangulare.

globe thistle cut back..

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 11:11

I don't.    They need the foliage to feed the roots for next year's growth and the top growth also protects the crowns from heavy frosts.  The seed heads look good frosted even it the seeds have been taken.  I only cut mine down in autumn if a strong gale blows them over.  Otherwise, I tidy up at the start of spring.

dogwoods

Posted: 08/07/2014 at 11:06

If it's Midwinter Fire it can be spindly but the stems do thicken with age.  However the object is always to have fresh new stems each year in order to get the flame effect of the bare, coloured stems in winter.

Mine have lovely bright green foliage tinged with red all summer and it turns golden in autumn.

 

cutting back tree branches

Posted: 07/07/2014 at 16:37

You can buy a pruning saw and handle form the Wolf range at good garden centres and DIY stores.   Good quality and not expensive.   Then I suggest you lift the corwn by removing loawer branches all round the trees.  Once you've cleared those away and can see what is left you can then thin th ecrown by removing some of the branches to allow air, light and rain to circulate and permeate.

Make a first small cut under the branch and then cut it cleanly from the top.   This will help prevent the bark and wood tearing and splitting and maintain a nealthy tree.  Do not use wound paint.  The tree will heal itself.   Make sure you remove all dead and crossing branches first.

Here is what the RHS advises -

Crown lifting: Lifting the crown by removing lower branches will allow access for mowing, mulching and enjoying the shade cast by the tree.

Crown thinning: Thinning crowns to let in more light by removing some, usually up to 30 percent, of the branches and concentrating on dead or congested shoots is another strategy.It is very easy to spoil the appearance of the tree so this is best attempted in stages evaluating the effect before removing more.

If branches larger than the diameter of your wrist need to be removed or if there is a lot of work up ladders needed, it would be best to call in a professional arborist.

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10 threads returned