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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

Acitanthera plant (peacock orchid

Posted: 23/10/2014 at 11:10

I grow mine in pots and take them in for winter, either in the pots or lifted and wrapped in paper.   They don't like to be frozen.   

This year I discovered that they'd made babies in one pot which is permanently placed on a manhole in a sheltered spot facing south and they have grown and flowered this year - but then last winter was exceptional and we had no real frosts, certainly not more than 2 or 3 degrees even in the exposed north facing parts of the garden..

Talkback: How to lift and divide herbaceous perennials

Posted: 22/10/2014 at 09:32

As long as you're moving before the winter frosts arrive, they should be fine if you water their roots thoroughly and leave it to soak in at least an hour before digging them up.    Once in their bags, tie up the tops of the bag as much as possible to reduce water loss to air and also to keep the roots form drying out.   If it stays warm and dry, trickle in some extra water for them but don't drown them.    Keep them out of the wind till you're ready to plant.

Empty Space??

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 17:45

Why not just pick a colour you like and then research plants that fit the bill - although I think blues are difficult to mix but delphiniums would go with your blue salvias as they have several shades of blue available or mix blue and white for a fresh look.   Remember also to contrast foliage shapes and sizes.

As for designing it, get out several sheets of paper and some crayons or water colours then experiment with formal and informal lines and shapes.  For example, two diagonal lines across the middle to give 4 blocks of colour or shape; scalloped shapes drawn along the edge and the middle filled with something tall/spiky/airy/frothy according to taste or a bird bath or sculpture or an obelisk; concentric lines of planting working in from the edge to the middle and so on.

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 17:18

Cherry, it sounds to me as though they're starving and thirsty.    Work as much well rotted manure and compost as you can into the bed without disturbing their roots then give the plants a 4" mulch of it you can.   The worms will work that in for you.

Next spring, give the clematis a generous handful of proper clematis food and a liquid tonic of rose or tomato food.   The honeysuckle should be OK with just the mulching.  Don't be discouraged.  Clematis can take a year or two to settle their roots in before they start performing above ground.  They also have different pruning regimes depending on variety.  What is yours?

Empty Space??

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 12:47

If you want to reduce your workload you need to think about perennials rather than annuals.    If you're going for a block of colour such as white, look at achillea ptarmica Pearl, Japanese anemone Honorine Jobert, white roses, white perennial cornflowers (deep purple centres) white Michaelmas daisies, lysimachia clethroides alba, white echniacea, white lavender and so on to give you a good display through the seasons.   You can extend it with white flowered hellebores and then white daffs, white crocus, white clamassias, white Dutch iris and white acidanthera for late summer bulbs.

Blowing a gale where you are yet?

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 12:30

Lots of various shades of grey scudding past at rapid speeds and blustery down here o teh ground.  Warm too which is always dodgy with high winds but no damage so far except that my beautiful, glowing rhus typhina dissecta and golden rain tree will probably be completely bare by the end of the day.   Trees and shrubs in the far corner are almost bare now but the birch, twisted hazel and bird cherry are still quite green and hanging on.  

Been wet too so dog walking has to wait till that part blows over.   My next home will definitely have a dog shower and foot bath!

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 22:15

When were they planted, how deep, and what kind of soil do you have - clay, stony, sandy, well drained, moist, acid or alkaline.

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 17:30

I think maybe you're are being impatient Lola.  If the've only been in one year they haven't really had time to put on lots of growth.  I sugegst you tie or twist in any growth that's long enough so it doesn't get blown about during autumn and winter gales.

Next spring, feed the cleatis with proprietary clematis food which is available in good garden centres and will release nutrients slowly that encourage flowers.  For an instant tonic, give all the plants a dose of liquid rose or tomato fertiliser then stand back and admire but keep an eye on new shoots and train them in as they get long enough.

If you like, you can make a zig-zag frame by winding extra wire up and down at 45° between the horizontal wires so that tieing in is easier but do this now or at least before new growth starts in spring.   I wouldn't use expandable trellis as honeysuckle and clematis montana are all very vigorous and will soon prove too heavy for it.

 

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 10:55

45cms spacing isthe correct distance for training wires but you do actually have to intervene with clematis and honeysuckle and train them along the wires.   Otherwise you end up with a cat's cradle.   Just putting up a mesh won't help and may make it look worse as it'll be more difficult for you to manipulate stems.

If you really must, add extra lines of wire between the ones you already have and then in spring, cut the honeysuckle back so you can train new growtha s you want it.  Leave the clematis till after it has flwoered as this variety flowers on old wood then cut back as much as you need in order to tidy it up.  

Give all of them a good feed in spring when new growth starts and they should do well but remember you need to referee the new growth on a regular basis.

Mint is looking pale and yellow :(

Posted: 20/10/2014 at 10:35

I grow all my mints in large pots to stop them escaping and they're all looking pale and yellow now as they die down before winter.   I have reduced watering and, beacvuse we have hard winteres here, will soon take the pots into shelter for winter with no further watering.

Come the spring they'll be brought outside, all the old shoots will be removed and the pots throroughly watered and then to dressed with some fresh compost.   If tehy're looking very congested they get turfed out and divided an dthen replanted and watered.

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