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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

Clematis sulking in pot

Posted: 10/05/2014 at 14:08

As Dove says, it's probably hungry if not starving so, if it can't go out in a border, try and find a bigger pot and give it plenty of fresh compost and regular feeding and watering.

sloping garden need help

Posted: 09/05/2014 at 16:51

How big is the height difference between the top and the bottom and how long is the garden?  How high are boundary walls and/or fences?  What's your budget and expertise?

It's perfectly possible to build up decking to quite a height but that will leave a lot of space underneath to lose things through the gaps left fro drainage and you should also bear in mind that critters like rats and foxes just love the shelter decking provides for housing and breeding.

Clematis for a south facing border

Posted: 09/05/2014 at 13:56

My Arabella has been in about 8 years now and is very happy so now outgrows a 2.2 metre obelisk and spreads into a nearby cotinus.   It would swamp my Alionushka which, admittedly, has only been in 3 years and just makes it to the top of a 2metre trellis panel.

Clematis for a south facing border

Posted: 09/05/2014 at 13:42

I find the group 3s work best for me in my sunny south facing border, or group 2s that can be treated as group 3s which means cutting them back hard in spring, giving them a feed and then watching them grow and flower over summer - training them as they develop.

I have Betty Corning, Princess Diana, Sunset, Arabella (non self clinging), Chrystal Fountain and Hendryetta (non clinging) all very happy and their flowers don't fade in the sun.  I also have Dr Ruppel, Omoshiro, Star of India and Westerplatte in beds to the north of the house but which get full sun from March to October and they'd be good on your obelisk too.

I also have Red Robin which is a group 1, flowering now with lovely whorled seed heads to follow.  It just gets pruned to keep it in bounds on its clematis panel.

One clematis per obelisk is ample as over the years their vigour will increase and they'll easily cover it.   Do not mix tow clems from 2 runing groups as you'll never untangle or distinguish which stems to prune and which to leave.

soil preparation

Posted: 09/05/2014 at 13:33

Have fun Merlot.   Have a look at this link too as it gives advice on honeysuckles - http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=439 Some are fine in sun but some do better with a bit of shade so you'll need to pick your variety accordingly.

Can't help with jasmines as they are not hardy enough for my garden but the RHS has this advice to offer - http://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?pid=291

soil preparation

Posted: 09/05/2014 at 12:35

First of all you need to attache trellis or a row of wires stretched horizontally at 12 to 18 inch intervals to teh fence to support your climbers.    Then the whole bed needs completely digging over to check for bits of rubble and stones and remove any weeds and their roots.  This will also break up the soil and aerate it making it easier for roots to grow.

Then you need to condition the soil by adding some moisture retentive matter which will also introduce beneficial organisms into the soil so work in a good thick layer of well rotted manure or garden compost which you can buy at DIY stores and garden centres if needs be.    Then select your chosen plants and dunk their pots in a bucket of water until all air bubbles stop forming.  

Make a planting hole a bit deeper and twice as wide as the pot and then use more soil conditioner mixed with soil to back fill the hole and end up with the crown of the plant (where stems emerge from the compost) at the same level in the soil as it was in the pot.   Water well and then mulch with some more conditioner to retain moisture.   Tie the stems in loosely to their supports and keep the plants watered during dry spells until next autumn.  

Gardening by the Moon

Posted: 09/05/2014 at 10:49

The weather here has been atrocious so no gardening all week and I very much doubt I'll get any done today which is a pity as I have strawberries to plant out and transplant and some beans ready to go out so today would have been ideal from a lunar point of view.

Let's hope its better for the weekend and I can get my baby beets planted out and fork over my cleared flower beds taking out nasties like couch grass roots so they're ready for planting up on the 14th.

 

Hostas in general White Feather Hosta in particular

Posted: 08/05/2014 at 22:42

The new, organic approved, ferrous based slug pellets work well and don't produce unsightly trails of slimy, oozing corpses.  The slugs hide and die out of sight and no other wildlife or pets are harmed.  

Scatter thinly, but regularly from about St Valentine's day or a bit later if it's a cold winter.  That way you get the perishers as they emerge from hibernation or hatch from eggs and before they've had time to munch or breed.

north facing veg patch

Posted: 08/05/2014 at 15:35

My entire veg plot is to the north of my house but most of it gets sun in summer when the sun is higgh over the house and it gets sun before 9am and after 3pm between the équinoxes in March and September as there are no neighbouring buildings or trees.

I grow a wide range of stuff including pumpkins in the sunniest bed and have rhubarb and strawberries in beds that get no direct sun from September to March..  

Redcurrants don't need full sun and you can also grow crops like kale, salad leaves and Chinese greens. 

Clematis for Windy Area

Posted: 07/05/2014 at 15:25

Good luck.  I have all the above in my garden but many more which have shelter from other plants or trellis panels so they're not quite so wind blown - Sunset, Princess Diana, Betty Corning, Little Nell, Omoshiro, Westerplatte, mme Julia Correvon, Niobe, Blue Angel, Rahvarinne all cope with sunshine and don't fade. 

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10 threads returned