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obelixx


Latest posts by obelixx

what color is your garden

Posted: 24/10/2014 at 14:13

Whites from japanese anemones and Michaelmas daisies, purples and pinks ditto plus cyclamens, purple verbenas and pink and red roses and persicaria.  Orange geums, heleniums, rudbeckias,   White agapanthus and acidantheras with purple throats, lilac hostas, vivid fuchsia pink, white, scarlet and burnt orange dahlias.   Deep pink and creamy white clematis.   Pink penstemons.   Deep pink and red sedums.   Mauve pink physostegia.   Golden foliage on cornus midwinter fire, red stems on cornus alba.   Other foliage and stem colours.

1930s

Posted: 24/10/2014 at 13:00

If you want British suburban 30s style it will be rather different from Aert Deco UAS stuff or high end design in the the UK.   I rtaher think it was hard landcaping, square lawsn, narrow beds, shrubs and annual bedding such as alyssum and lobelia maybe with some pelargoniums and standard roses with bare soil in between .   Definitely not cottagey.

You could contact these people - http://www.gardenhistorysociety.org 

Have a read of this too - http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-1247156/How-Britain-built-Arcadia-The-growth-suburbs-Thirties-brought-better-life-millions.html

 

 

pots in beds

Posted: 24/10/2014 at 12:43

You can certainly plant things in pots in beds but it's usually a technique for filling in gaps eg pots of tulips in springor lillies in summer which then just get lifted and left to die down quietly in a corner once flowering finishes, or cannas or dahlias that need winter protection so get stashed somewher frost free for the winter.

Neither rock rose nor broom will produce enough roots to do damage to your house wall or foundations so you should just plant them direct so their roots are free to seek out moisture and nutrients which will be challenging enough up against a wall without being confined in a pot.   Depending on the state and type of your soil you could also grow roses, lavenders, hibiscus and many more. 

hydrangea

Posted: 23/10/2014 at 17:45

The flowers do fade to brown as they age and it is the end of their season now.

Fat balls in plastic NO

Posted: 23/10/2014 at 11:51

I buy what I can get, sometimes in tubs, sometimes loose and sometimes in bags but nearly always with the plastic strings.   It's a simple matter to cut off the strings and put them in the assorted holders I use to hang them up safely for the birds.

Just need to educate people to do it.

Acitanthera plant (peacock orchid

Posted: 23/10/2014 at 11:10

I grow mine in pots and take them in for winter, either in the pots or lifted and wrapped in paper.   They don't like to be frozen.   

This year I discovered that they'd made babies in one pot which is permanently placed on a manhole in a sheltered spot facing south and they have grown and flowered this year - but then last winter was exceptional and we had no real frosts, certainly not more than 2 or 3 degrees even in the exposed north facing parts of the garden..

Talkback: How to lift and divide herbaceous perennials

Posted: 22/10/2014 at 09:32

As long as you're moving before the winter frosts arrive, they should be fine if you water their roots thoroughly and leave it to soak in at least an hour before digging them up.    Once in their bags, tie up the tops of the bag as much as possible to reduce water loss to air and also to keep the roots form drying out.   If it stays warm and dry, trickle in some extra water for them but don't drown them.    Keep them out of the wind till you're ready to plant.

Empty Space??

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 17:45

Why not just pick a colour you like and then research plants that fit the bill - although I think blues are difficult to mix but delphiniums would go with your blue salvias as they have several shades of blue available or mix blue and white for a fresh look.   Remember also to contrast foliage shapes and sizes.

As for designing it, get out several sheets of paper and some crayons or water colours then experiment with formal and informal lines and shapes.  For example, two diagonal lines across the middle to give 4 blocks of colour or shape; scalloped shapes drawn along the edge and the middle filled with something tall/spiky/airy/frothy according to taste or a bird bath or sculpture or an obelisk; concentric lines of planting working in from the edge to the middle and so on.

Best support for growing clematis to cover wooden fence

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 17:18

Cherry, it sounds to me as though they're starving and thirsty.    Work as much well rotted manure and compost as you can into the bed without disturbing their roots then give the plants a 4" mulch of it you can.   The worms will work that in for you.

Next spring, give the clematis a generous handful of proper clematis food and a liquid tonic of rose or tomato food.   The honeysuckle should be OK with just the mulching.  Don't be discouraged.  Clematis can take a year or two to settle their roots in before they start performing above ground.  They also have different pruning regimes depending on variety.  What is yours?

Empty Space??

Posted: 21/10/2014 at 12:47

If you want to reduce your workload you need to think about perennials rather than annuals.    If you're going for a block of colour such as white, look at achillea ptarmica Pearl, Japanese anemone Honorine Jobert, white roses, white perennial cornflowers (deep purple centres) white Michaelmas daisies, lysimachia clethroides alba, white echniacea, white lavender and so on to give you a good display through the seasons.   You can extend it with white flowered hellebores and then white daffs, white crocus, white clamassias, white Dutch iris and white acidanthera for late summer bulbs.

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